Should I force feed?-sick sulcata help

amidoingthisright

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Hey! I am new here to tortoise forum. I have been sleuthing around for a year or so now, and have finally made myself an account! I have had quite a few reptiles, yet am not really experienced with tortoises. I have read up all I could before getting my own baby sulcata and planned on getting him from an online resource. Things change though... I found a craigslist post saying that they have a 1-year-old sulcata and that he had stopped eating. My heart melted and I couldn't help but go to save him. Once I picked him up I really didn't know what to think. He was TINY. So small that I have been calling him, Little Bit, for the time being. They told me that they purchased him as a hatchling in early January last year. They said he really hasn't eaten for the past month. So, I took him home and let him settle in a 10-gallon quarantine tank while I finish setting up his 45-gallon tub. (Which is getting finished up later today). I've had him for three days. simply offered him food and freshwater for the first 2 days, and misted his cage down around 3 times a day. His temporary cage hasn't had the proper humidity because of how it's set up, but his new cage will keep it about 80% like suggested for young ones. The temps are all like the ones suggested. 100 degrees basking and 80 degrees all around. He hasn't eaten food since I have gotten him. I have been giving him daily 30 minute soaks in warm water with unflavored Pedialyte and baby food to get some nutrients in him. He also doesn't move around and has only opened his eyes once or twice, to my knowledge. I want to know when it is time to force-feed him, if at all. Please feel free to ask any more questions, I just really need some help from experienced tortoise keepers. Thanks!IMG_0895.JPG - this is how much he weighs.IMG_0897.JPG- this is him compared to a dollar bill.IMG_0899.JPG- this is his temporary cage setup.There is a water bowl, but it is getting cleaned while this picture was taken.
 

Maro2Bear

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Greetings.... hhmm, so many questions. How are you keeping the enclosure warm (80 F) at night? Hopefully you can get the new fully enclosed enclosure ready ASAP, normalize temps, and transfer. The screen you are using is filtering out the beneficial effects of the light you have. Lastly, current substrate looks way way too dry. So, in your new set-up, make sure you have your substrate nice & hydrsted & have a nice, moist dark humid hide!

Keep up the daily soaks, maybe twice daily if you can manage. Hopefully you can it eating. If you have any Mazuri, soften one nugget & get it in front of your tort right after soaking.

now....over to @Tom and @Yvonne G for more insights & suggestions
 

Len B

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Until you finish the new enclosure you can cover the top with aluminum foil and cut out for the lights. and pour enough water in to bring the humidity to above 90 percent throughout. You said that you have other reptiles, if you have some hot rocks you can suspend them down on the inside around the sides to use as a safe heat source and not have to leave the lights on all the time, just place them high enough so that he can't touch them. With a closed chamber type setup it not only keeps moisture in it also is easier to heat.
 

Tom

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Hello and welcome. Give this a read:
 

Yvonne G

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That poor little tortoise hasn't grown at all for a whole year. We don't know if it's due to poor care on the previous keeper's fault or failure syndrome. All you can do is give him the best care and hope for the best. He should be 80-85F degrees all the time, day and night. Soak him every day for about a half hour, and more is ok, and because his eyes are stuck shut and he's not been eating, mix Gerber strained carrots in the soaking water every time. Strained carrots has the highest amount of vitamin A of all the baby foods. I would keep him in the 10 gallon tank until he's out of the woods and eating. It's easier to keep that smaller tank warm overall. If you have a UVB light, then you don't want the screen on top of the tank. The small mesh of the screen doesn't allow the UVB rays to penetrate.
 

amidoingthisright

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Thank you all for your help! I will probably
keep him in the 10 gallon for now, but I have finished the larger cage. I will put in a humid hide for better humidity and essentials keep doing what I’m doing. I will also remove the screen and hang the lights over the cage for the UVB. So, if I gather correctly, I don’t force feed him? I could make a mix of baby food and tortoise pellets and give it to him in a syringe, to help get nutrients in him. Does anyone think that’s a good idea? Thank you all again!
 

Yvonne G

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It's pretty stressful trying to open a baby tortoise's mouth. I wouldn't do that. He will get some nutrients from the baby food soaks, and once his eyes are open he'll feel more like eating on his own. Start out with yummy things he's really not supposed to have, like iceburg lettuce and cucumber, then once he's eating that, you can slowly add more of the healthier types of tortoise food.
 

Tom

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If he is not eating, there is a reason. Forcing food into him won't help and won't do anything to address the problem that is causing him to not eat. I wouldn't force feed.
 

Cathie G

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I like Fluker's repta rinse for eyes. A drop on each eyelid can be done without being too stressful during a soak. If a more experienced member says different do what they say. I haven't done this very often. Only if there's a chance that dirt or dust got in my little guy's eye and or I'm seeing an eye problem. I hope you can help your little bit.
 

VegasJeff

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I wouldn’t worry too much if he doesn’t eat for a fee days. Remember, these guys can hibernate and stuff.

If it’s warm where you are take him outside so he can get some sun.
 

Tom

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I wouldn’t worry too much if he doesn’t eat for a fee days. Remember, these guys can hibernate and stuff.

If it’s warm where you are take him outside so he can get some sun.
She's talking about her sulcata. They do NOT hibernate, and it indicates a big problem if they don't eat for a few days.
 

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