Still struggling with humidity and other things!

Katielynn

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I’m still struggling with humidity. I got an automatic mister which bring the humidity to where it needs to be but the bedding under the top layer is soaking wet and my tortoise likes to dig down into that so I’m worried about shell rot. I see a lot of people say plants help hold humidity. He’s in a 75 gallon aquarium with plexiglass covering areas where the basking bulb and ceramic heater is not. I’m really struggling. Can someone please help me!! I did get some help and ideas but nothing is working. He’s a juvenile and sleeps a lot and doesn’t really bask. Is this normal? He eats just fine when I pull him out. I soak him as well almost daily. Please help!!
 

Ray--Opo

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Can we see pics of the enclosure? What is the temp and what kind of substrate are you using. I forgot what kind of tortoise you have.
 

Tom

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I’m still struggling with humidity. I got an automatic mister which bring the humidity to where it needs to be but the bedding under the top layer is soaking wet and my tortoise likes to dig down into that so I’m worried about shell rot. I see a lot of people say plants help hold humidity. He’s in a 75 gallon aquarium with plexiglass covering areas where the basking bulb and ceramic heater is not. I’m really struggling. Can someone please help me!! I did get some help and ideas but nothing is working. He’s a juvenile and sleeps a lot and doesn’t really bask. Is this normal? He eats just fine when I pull him out. I soak him as well almost daily. Please help!!
You will never maintain heat and humidity with an open topped aquarium. That is like trying to heat your house in winter with no roof. If you put on half a roof, the heat would still go up and out through the open part. You need a closed chamber.

Wet substrate can definitely cause shell rot in a red foot tortoise.
 

Katielynn

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Can we see pics of the enclosure? What is the temp and what kind of substrate are you using. I forgot what kind of tortoise you have.
He’s a redfoot juvenile I was told. Here are some photos. I have plexiglass at the top covering where the mesh wire is not holding the heat lamps. I’m trying so hard! There’s so much different information about needing basking spots and not, uvb bulbs, and bedding and such. I am so overwhelmed! I use coconut fiber then added a mulch the pet store recommended along with a type of moss they also recommended. I’ve done 3 different types of enclosures. I’m sticking with the 75 gallon aquarium as I’m out of funds so anything different at this time. Building something is not an option as I have no help to do that and I’m clueless with that stuff.
 

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Tom

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What size is the tortoise?

I see three, maybe four problems:
1. This enclosure is way too wet. Your tortoise is going to develop shell rot if it hasn't already.
2. The open top will prevent you from being able to maintain the correct temperatures and humidity.
3. The moss is an impaction hazard and it doesn't do anything to help with your humidity that damp substrate doesn't do
4. I don't know the size of your tortoise, but a 75 is too small for any tortoise that is over about 3 inches. Usually something labelled as a juvenile is at least 4-5 inches.

I can feel your frustration. This is common. Pet shops give terrible advice and sell the wrong products. When things don't work as they should, people go on the internet and find their way here only to be told that they've got the wrong type of enclosure and all sorts of wrong equipment that they've spent a whole lot of money on, and that is why things aren't working correctly. I wish we could go back in time and prevent this frustrating situation, but unfortunately the time machine hasn't been invented just yet.

So what to do? Your current enclosure is going to cause pyramiding, shell rot, and possibly impaction. You say you have no more money and can't build anything or have anything built to solve these problems. You are at an impasse. What you have isn't suitable, but you can't change it. In that case, it seems it time to give your tortoise to someone who has the correct housing for it, or can make the correct housing for it. If the tortoise gets a bad case of shell rot, or if it gets impacted from the moss, the vet bills are going to cost a heck of a lot more than buying a proper enclosure, or having one built. The tortoise needs what it needs. I hate it that pet stores don't know what they need and give terrible advice and sell all the wrong products, but they do, and I can't change that. All I can do is help people like you who have all good intentions try to fix the mess that has been created. No one wants to hear that their enclosure can't meet their animal's needs, but if we don't tell them, then the animal continues to suffer in the wrong conditions, and things get worse.
 

Ray--Opo

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Do you have any links? And then what watt ceramic bulb? I’m not giving my tortoise up. I’m going to make this work.
What wattage are you using for your ceramic heating element now?
 

Mrs.Jennifer

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I was using 100 for day and 60 at night. I was told it’s okay to let the temp get to low 70s at night.
Do you have any links? And then what watt ceramic bulb? I’m not giving my tortoise up. I’m going to make this work.
Good for you for wanting to do the work to keep your tortoise!
Let’s include @ZEROPILOT in the conversation. He’s a moderator and a redfoot guru.

Good luck!
 

Tom

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Do you have any links? And then what watt ceramic bulb? I’m not giving my tortoise up. I’m going to make this work.
Only your thermometer can tell you what wattage bulb you need. Personally I'd hang both the 100 and the 60 over opposite ends of the enclosure and use a thermostat to control them 24/7.
 

Tom

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What type of enclosure would I need to buy?
There are many on the market now. In the past I was buying Animal Plastics. They are super high quality, reasonably priced, and exceptionally well designed. So what is the problem? Wait time. It can take a year to get what you order from them. 8 or 9 months is common in my experience.

The best tortoise enclosures made are from @Markw84 They are perfectly designed and built to suit tortoise needs. They are the most perfect tortoise life support system I've ever seen. I own two, and I have helped friends build another three of them with a fourth soon to be assembled. They come with all the heating and lighting already installed, so the price seems a little steep at first glance, but when you add up what you'd be paying for all the heating lighting, thermostats, and all the other included stuff, its a great bargain, PLUS everything is done right. The base model is 48x36", and Mark offers an "expansion pack" that easily attaches to the base model and doubles the floor space. He ships them disassembled and flat and they press fit together very easily. No tools, no screws, no glue. The design is simply genius.

I only know these two makers, but there are others coming and going in the marketplace all the time. Here are the key elements:
1. It needs to be made of expanded PVC material. Not laminate or any kind of wood.
2. It needs to be large to accommodate your species.
3. Heating and lighting needs to be inside with a solid roof and front opening doors.

Here is an example of my AP enclosures:

I don't have any pics of Mark's enclosures on hand be he has a website for them I think. They are aptly named "Smart Enclosures".
 

ZEROPILOT

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Good for you for wanting to do the work to keep your tortoise!
Let’s include @ZEROPILOT in the conversation. He’s a moderator and a redfoot guru.

Good luck!
The correct information has been given and Tom nailed the blaring issues.
That MISTKING is a super great products. But it's not ideal for such a small enclosure for a Redfoot.
It drenches like rain. What you want is humidity from evaporation.
I'd maybe aim the nozzle(s) downward or towards the glasd and set it to go off for about 30 seconds every 4 hours of daylight.
Not at all at night.
Don't mix cooler temperatures and misting with a tortoise.
That amount of water going into your substrate will give off humidity as it evaporates and keep the top layer dry.
Also what type of "heat light" are you using?
 
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Katielynn

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The correct information has been given and Tom nailed the blaring issues.
That MISTKING is a super great products. But it's not ideal for such a small enclosure for a Redfoot.
It drenches like rain. What you want is humidity from evaporation.
I'd maybe aim the nozzle(s) downward or towards the glasd and set it to go off for about 30 seconds every 4 hours of daylight.
Not at all at night.
Don't mix cooler temperatures and misting with a tortoise.
That amount of water going into your substrate will give off humidity as it evaporates and keep the top layer dry.
Also what type of "heat light" are you using?
I have it set for to spray 6 seconds every 5 hours and then I turn it off at night and back on in the morning I use 100 watt ceramic at one end and 60 at the other end. At night I run a different 100 watt on the warmer end.
 

ZEROPILOT

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I have it set for to spray 6 seconds every 5 hours and then I turn it off at night and back on in the morning I use 100 watt ceramic at one end and 60 at the other end. At night I run a different 100 watt on the warmer end.
And your substrate is soaking wet?
Try what I suggested earlier. Aim the nozzle at the glass angled downward do that the water will run down deep into the substrate and not broadcast water all over the upper surface.
Are you using Orchid Bark?
 

Katielynn

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And your substrate is soaking wet?
Try what I suggested earlier. Aim the nozzle at the glass angled downward do that the water will run down deep into the substrate and not broadcast water all over the upper surface.
Are you using Orchid Bark?
I’m sorry I wasn’t being clear. Now that’s how I’m misting. Before I had that thing going every 30 minutes to an hour for like 50 seconds. Once I removed the basking bulb that helped tremendously! I’ll send over some photos this afternoon. I used foil tape over the gaps of the mesh where the lamps sit to hold moisture and heat in. Everything has been holding better! I can get one side of the tank at 80 and the cooler end at 74. I’m using 100 watt ceramic at warm end and 60 at the cool so now that’s my new struggle 🤦‍♀️
 

ZEROPILOT

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I’m sorry I wasn’t being clear. Now that’s how I’m misting. Before I had that thing going every 30 minutes to an hour for like 50 seconds. Once I removed the basking bulb that helped tremendously! I’ll send over some photos this afternoon. I used foil tape over the gaps of the mesh where the lamps sit to hold moisture and heat in. Everything has been holding better! I can get one side of the tank at 80 and the cooler end at 74. I’m using 100 watt ceramic at warm end and 60 at the cool so now that’s my new struggle 🤦‍♀️
Lots of tweaking to do.
But the reward for getting it all correct is very satisfying
 

Katielynn

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Lots of tweaking to do.
But the reward for getting it all correct is very satisfying
Thank you! My new question is are the hooded type lamps okay for the ceramic heat emitters? My temp is staying at 77-78 now and I don’t have a basking spot as I was told I don’t need it. He’s a cherry head redfoot if that makes any difference. I’m doing much better with the humidity! I’m too scared to run the same emitter 24/7 so what do you recommend? I figured with the double I can rotate between day and night. To ge the temp higher I was thinking lowering the lamps closer into the enclosure with a stand instead of the mesh? And I’m covering the gaps with the foil tape. Thoughts? I added photos of the 2 I just bought picking up tomorrow was gonna do 100 watt on one end and 60 on the other end. Then at night the 100 at one end and nothing on the cooler end. I’ve also ordered another tube type uvb and only using the one in the picture until that comes. The one I had before was too strong and too bright for my little guy.
 

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