Sulcata broke his beak

Wpagey

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Hi Everyone!
We recently adopted and are greatly enjoying our 11 year old Sulcata, but it looks like he’s managed to break off a chunk of his beak somehow. Is this something that just happens now and then? How long does it take to grow back? We live in Southern California and he is outside all day in the yard eating grass, and is acting normal.
 

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Tom

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Hi Everyone!
We recently adopted and are greatly enjoying our 11 year old Sulcata, but it looks like he’s managed to break off a chunk of his beak somehow. Is this something that just happens now and then? How long does it take to grow back? We live in Southern California and he is outside all day in the yard eating grass, and is acting normal.
Its pretty normal for this to happen. One of my SA leopards boys just did something similar. It will grow back and all even out over time.

Do you have a proper heated night box for nights and winters?
 

Wpagey

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Joined
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Messages
73
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
Its pretty normal for this to happen. One of my SA leopards boys just did something similar. It will grow back and all even out over time.

Do you have a proper heated night box for nights and winters?
He has a dog house that we’ve set up with 1” insulation on sides, top and under floor. It has reptile heat mat mounted on wall with thermostat set at 78, and thick, clear table protector cut into overlapping flaps for a door. We had an overnight low of 42 recently and his house got down to 62. Should I mount the mat on the floor or add more heat?
 

Tom

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He has a dog house that we’ve set up with 1” insulation on sides, top and under floor. It has reptile heat mat mounted on wall with thermostat set at 78, and thick, clear table protector cut into overlapping flaps for a door. We had an overnight low of 42 recently and his house got down to 62. Should I mount the mat on the floor or add more heat?
The house should not drop below 80 even when temps are freezing. You need thicker insulation and you have to seal all the seams as you build it. Kane mats should be on the floor, and you need a RHP over head. I set the thermostat to 80 in Spring and fall when we have warm sunny days, but cold nights. I set the thermostat to 70 in summer when every day is near 100. I set the thermostat to 86 in winter when the days are cooler and they have no other way to warm up.

Here are two examples:

 

Wpagey

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2021
Messages
73
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
He has a dog house that we’ve set up with 1” insulation on sides, top and under floor. It has reptile heat mat mounted on wall with thermostat set at 78, and thick, clear table protector cut into overlapping flaps for a door. We had an overnight low of 42 recently and his house got down to 62. Should I mount the mat on the floor or add more heat?

The house should not drop below 80 even when temps are freezing. You need thicker insulation and you have to seal all the seams as you build it. Kane mats should be on the floor, and you need a RHP over head. I set the thermostat to 80 in Spring and fall when we have warm sunny days, but cold nights. I set the thermostat to 70 in summer when every day is near 100. I set the thermostat to 86 in winter when the days are cooler and they have no other way to warm up.

Here are two examples:

I really appreciate the help. You specified Kane mats, but this is the heat mat we have--is this a quality product and OK to use? I have a ceramic heat bulb that I can set up until we get RHP put in.1635192673033.png
 

Tom

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I really appreciate the help. You specified Kane mats, but this is the heat mat we have--is this a quality product and OK to use? I have a ceramic heat bulb that I can set up until we get RHP put in.View attachment 335128
You'll need an 18x28 size for a large sulcata. I use the Kane mats because I've talked to the manufacturer, Craig Kane himself several times and he builds in redundant safeties to make them incredibly safe and reliable. The reptitherms seem to be a copy of the Kane mats. I don't know or trust them, and frankly it is kind of crappy move to copy someone else's quality product and slap your own name on it. I honestly don't know if they are safe or not. I wouldn't use one.

CHEs are not safe to use over larger tortoises. Nor are heat lamps. These will slowburn the top of the carapace. You need a radiant heat panel for overhead.
 

Wpagey

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2021
Messages
73
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
You'll need an 18x28 size for a large sulcata. I use the Kane mats because I've talked to the manufacturer, Craig Kane himself several times and he builds in redundant safeties to make them incredibly safe and reliable. The reptitherms seem to be a copy of the Kane mats. I don't know or trust them, and frankly it is kind of crappy move to copy someone else's quality product and slap your own name on it. I honestly don't know if they are safe or not. I wouldn't use one.

CHEs are not safe to use over larger tortoises. Nor are heat lamps. These will slowburn the top of the carapace. You need a radiant heat panel for overhead.
Hi Tom, I'm sure this has been answered someplace, but I cannot seem to locate it. The RHP we have mounted on the night box lid is keeping the temps more consistent, but it seems too far above the tort to be the most effective. How far above the tort should it ideally be? Also, do you know a good solid way to mount it lower without making the lid super heavy? I'm thinking to craft a bracket of some sort.
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
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Messages
63,264
Location (City and/or State)
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Hi Tom, I'm sure this has been answered someplace, but I cannot seem to locate it. The RHP we have mounted on the night box lid is keeping the temps more consistent, but it seems too far above the tort to be the most effective. How far above the tort should it ideally be? Also, do you know a good solid way to mount it lower without making the lid super heavy? I'm thinking to craft a bracket of some sort.
I use 2x4s. Anywhere from 6-12 inches is fine.
 

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