Sulcata habitat question

[RWW]

Hello all, I am new to the forum and have really enjoyed reading through the discussions. I have noted the recommendation for Sulcata enclosures of a heat basking light (incandescent), in addition to a CHE on a thermostat, plus an appropriate UVB light and an LED or fluorescent light to brighten the enclosure. Some also suggest a floor heating element such as a Kane heating pad. I am curious why the incandescent light in addition to the CHE. Could the CHE be used to create the hot spot in the upper 90's and also create an ambient temperature in the 80's in other areas of the enclosure while relying on the UVB to provide the lighting and UV needs. I would assume the CHE would heat the enclosure more efficiently than the incandescent and the heating pad may be more efficient than both. That also raised the question if torts have a preference to warm themselves by basking in a warm light or sitting on a warm surface?
Also noted was the use of an oil-filled radiant heater. What is the minimal enclosure size to safely use of this type of heater? It seems this could be an efficient means of heating a closed top enclosure.
My last question is regarding substrate. I see cypress mulch noted frequently as an appropriate substrate. Arguably, cypress may not be the best environmental choice depending where and how it is harvested. In some areas over harvesting has dramatically changed the wetland habitat in areas of Louisiana and other coastal areas. Is there a preference of cypress over hardwood mulch for substrate?
Thank you
Randy

 

[Maggie3fan]

The incandescent bulb acts like the sun...on for 12 hrs off for 12...I use a heat mat for my bigger Sulcata. My shed has an oil filled radiator, a incandescent bulb and che for every one...the che keeps them warm at night when the 'sun' goes down. I use small grade orchid bark for my substrate.

every tort in my shed gets a che, and an incandescent bulb (the sun) and a che on 24/7. My bigger Sulcata gets a pig blanket too....

I hope this helps...

 

[Maro2Bear]

Greetings. Remember too that a lot depends on where you live, how large of an area you have, your budget, and the fact that you need to keep a minimum of 80F ambient temperature, coupled with some “sunlight” & light. Now I use a combo of Kane matt & RHPs in our Sullys nightbox. When she was younger, inside a closed chamber, incandescent bulbs, & CHEs. So, Ive changed ways as our Sully grew.

Substrate: Ive been using 100% Cypress mulch for years now & really like it. Holds moisture, doesnt mold or mildew, and easily/cheaply found in garden centers. Ive never seen our Sully attempting to eat it. Early on I used cypress & coco coir & orchid bark.

 

[Tom]

Hello all, I am new to the forum and have really enjoyed reading through the discussions. I have noted the recommendation for Sulcata enclosures of a heat basking light (incandescent), in addition to a CHE on a thermostat, plus an appropriate UVB light and an LED or fluorescent light to brighten the enclosure. Some also suggest a floor heating element such as a Kane heating pad. I am curious why the incandescent light in addition to the CHE. Could the CHE be used to create the hot spot in the upper 90's and also create an ambient temperature in the 80's in other areas of the enclosure while relying on the UVB to provide the lighting and UV needs. I would assume the CHE would heat the enclosure more efficiently than the incandescent and the heating pad may be more efficient than both. That also raised the question if torts have a preference to warm themselves by basking in a warm light or sitting on a warm surface?
Also noted was the use of an oil-filled radiant heater. What is the minimal enclosure size to safely use of this type of heater? It seems this could be an efficient means of heating a closed top enclosure.
My last question is regarding substrate. I see cypress mulch noted frequently as an appropriate substrate. Arguably, cypress may not be the best environmental choice depending where and how it is harvested. In some areas over harvesting has dramatically changed the wetland habitat in areas of Louisiana and other coastal areas. Is there a preference of cypress over hardwood mulch for substrate?
Thank you
Randy

Are we talking about starting babies indoors, or are we talking about housing adults outside. Your post is a mix of the two.

CHEs controlled by a thermostat are used to maintain ambient heat above 80, day and night. These emit no light so they serve no purpose for basking.

The incandescent bulb emits heat and light directly underneath it. This area gets well above the ambient temp and should reach 95-100. The incandescent should also raise the overall ambient temp into the high 80s or low 90s all over the enclosure each day. There should be a flat rock of some sort directly under the basking bulb, and this allows the tortoise to get SAFE belly heat, assuming the bulb height has been set correctly with a thermometer.

A UV tube, if needed, should only be on for a few hours at most mid day. Because of this, you still need ambient lighting for the whole enclosure.

Ambient lighting compliments all the other heating and lighting. Ambient lighting makes it look like daytime, even when the UV is off, and in addition to the small amount of light emitted by incandescent bulbs.

Kane mats and oil heaters are for use in outdoor night boxes for larger tortoises. Not for babies. Minimum size ought to be 48x48 inches, which is actually about 39x39 inches inside when its all built with al the insulating and layers.

Fine grade orchid bark is the best substrate to use. Its also sustainable since the fir trees are regularly replanted. If you can't find it in bulk locally at a nursery, you can order "Repti-Bark" online from Chewy.com or one of those.

 

[RWW]

The incandescent bulb acts like the sun...on for 12 hrs off for 12...I use a heat mat for my bigger Sulcata. My shed has an oil filled radiator, a incandescent bulb and che for every one...the che keeps them warm at night when the 'sun' goes down. I use small grade orchid bark for my substrate.
View attachment 335680
every tort in my shed gets a che, and an incandescent bulb (the sun) and a che on 24/7. My bigger Sulcata gets a pig blanket too....
View attachment 335681
I hope this helps...

Thank you Maggie

 

[RWW]

Greetings. Remember too that a lot depends on where you live, how large of an area you have, your budget, and the fact that you need to keep a minimum of 80F ambient temperature, coupled with some “sunlight” & light. Now I use a combo of Kane matt & RHPs in our Sullys nightbox. When she was younger, inside a closed chamber, incandescent bulbs, & CHEs. So, Ive changed ways as our Sully grew.

Substrate: Ive been using 100% Cypress mulch for years now & really like it. Holds moisture, doesnt mold or mildew, and easily/cheaply found in garden centers. Ive never seen our Sully attempting to eat it. Early on I used cypress & coco coir

Are we talking about starting babies indoors, or are we talking about housing adults outside. Your post is a mix of the two.

CHEs controlled by a thermostat are used to maintain ambient heat above 80, day and night. These emit no light so they serve no purpose for basking.

The incandescent bulb emits heat and light directly underneath it. This area gets well above the ambient temp and should reach 95-100. The incandescent should also raise the overall ambient temp into the high 80s or low 90s all over the enclosure each day. There should be a flat rock of some sort directly under the basking bulb, and this allows the tortoise to get SAFE belly heat, assuming the bulb height has been set correctly with a thermometer.

A UV tube, if needed, should only be on for a few hours at most mid day. Because of this, you still need ambient lighting for the whole enclosure.

Ambient lighting compliments all the other heating and lighting. Ambient lighting makes it look like daytime, even when the UV is off, and in addition to the small amount of light emitted by incandescent bulbs.

Kane mats and oil heaters are for use in outdoor night boxes for larger tortoises. Not for babies. Minimum size ought to be 48x48 inches, which is actually about 39x39 inches inside when its all built with al the insulating and layers.

Fine grade orchid bark is the best substrate to use. Its also sustainable since the fir trees are regularly replanted. If you can't find it in bulk locally at a nursery, you can order "Repti-Bark" online from Chewy.com or one of those.

Tom, thank you for your reply. My questions are directed more toward babies kept indoors. Your reply has answered many of my questions. I didn't pick up on the daily duration of the UVB in my prior reading. This clarifies why additional lighting is needed. I can/will use fir bark but I am curious if folks have seen problems with hardwood mulch. Perhaps more likely to be ingested? Thanks

 

[Tom]

Quote from RWW:
Tom, thank you for your reply. My questions are directed more toward babies kept indoors. Your reply has answered many of my questions. I didn't pick up on the daily duration of the UVB in my prior reading. This clarifies why additional lighting is needed. I can/will use fir bark but I am curious if folks have seen problems with hardwood mulch. Perhaps more likely to be ingested?

One of the primary reasons we use orchid bark, cypress mulch or coco coir is because it can be kept damp and it won't mold, grow bacteria or fungus, and it doesn't rot when kept damp. Hard wood mulch will do all of the above.