Sulcata Looks Very Sick (likely RI) - Advice Needed

[sibi]

I like the idea of using the radiant panels! I use the CHE and MVB at a safe level for my torts, but I know Tom uses radiant panels for his enclosures. It's safe and saves on electricity, I'm sure.

You are such a great person! And, if there's anyone who can get this tort well it's you. Tort's system is very, very slow. I mean, to give you an example, what your tort eats may take weeks for him to digest and finally expel (poop out). The meds he was given will take its time to take effect. After two or three weeks, if the meds were the right one, you should see a change in his behavior. He should be eating, pooping, and more active. I'll pray for his speedy recovery!

 

[sibi]

In winter months where temps are too cold to let your tort outside, I do recommend a UVB light. I don't feel confident that your tort IS getting enough UV rays if he's out just two times a week for a little while during these winter months. In this case, I don't agree with Tom (we can have different opinions on products and methods). You will eventually become a skilled tortoise keeper, and by trial and error, you'll prefer some products over another. You can't overdose your tort with a UV bulb, that also provides heat, btw. He's not gonna get any UV outside while he's sick and inside, is he? And if he's inside for a few weeks or more, he needs that UV bulb.

 

[AliM29]

Your tortoise does not need indoor UV. He gets plenty of sunshine, so you can skip this expensive step.

Human heating devices are generally not safe for reptiles. The potential for a hot spot or getting tangled with the cord is high. I can see you are trying hard and I don't want to frustrate you, but you need a heat mat designed for animals. Something like this: http://www.kanemfg.com/pet-heating/

The RHPs you are looking at are great, but they don't really fit your application. I use this brand and love them: http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels
I use them in my outdoor boxes that are two feet tall. In the boxes housing smaller tortoises, I actually have to lower them with home made 2x4 brackets to get them close enough to be effective. They only work from a few inches away and only in small, well insulated, confined spaces. They are designed to safely heat relatively small enclosures that house large constrictor snakes.

I know you will get this all sorted out, and I hope our tips will help along the way.

Do they not need any form of UV light during winter when they can't go outside?

Between the vet bills and all these other expenses, I'm already running significantly over budget right now, so I may have to look for an alternative to those Kane mats. They're just way out of my reach right now. The electric blanket that I am using right now is set to the low setting which has an average spot temperature between 86-91 deg. F, so there shouldn't be any dangerous hot spots for the tortoise. The cables are also fully tucked out of the enclosure through the latch, so no entanglement possibilities either. I will still look for a heating mat designed for pets...maybe I can find a Kane mat used somewhere.

 

[sibi]

Do they not need any form of UV light during winter when they can't go outside?

Between the vet bills and all these other expenses, I'm already running significantly over budget right now, so I may have to look for an alternative to those Kane mats. They're just way out of my reach right now. The electric blanket that I am using right now is set to the low setting which has an average spot temperature between 86-91 deg. F, so there shouldn't be any dangerous hot spots for the tortoise. The cables are also fully tucked out of the enclosure through the latch, so no entanglement possibilities either. I will still look for a heating mat designed for pets...maybe I can find a Kane mat used somewhere.

They're are alternatives to Kane. I think Stanford? make heat blankets. You can check online. Also, you may want to check on eBay for used blankets made by Kane. The reason why Kane blankets are desirable is because there's no chance of electrocution or overheating. I believe Tom was in touch with its manufacturers at some point in the past, and the mfg designs a better, safer mat. I don't know what other mfg can make those claims of safety. But, I would definitely check on eBay.

 

[Yvonne G]

Stansfield. I buy mine online direct from the manufacturer - Osborne Industries.

If your tortoise gets sunshine all summer, he can more than likely do ok all winter without a UVB bulb.

 

[Tom]

Do they not need any form of UV light during winter when they can't go outside?

You are in AZ right? Anywhere near Phoenix? If yes, then all you need is that heated house you already have and he can live outside full time. You will lock him in every night and open the door every morning and he can come and go as he pleases, once he knows to go in an out on his own. So on cool winter days, he can come out and graze and then go back in the warm box, but he'll be getting plenty of UV a lll winter long.

 

[AliM29]

Since I have ramped up his heat and started giving him daily baths, he seems to be more alert and active. He even pooped last night which must have been a first in many many months. He is still refusing to eat food though. Should I just keep waiting on this or is there anything I can do to get him motivated to eat?

Also, I have a humidifier in the room and it's keeping the room around 43-45%. Arizona is really dry, so it probably won't go above this for this particular humidifier. Is this a good enough level as long as I give him daily baths?

 

[sibi]

Humidity, ideally, should be about 80%, and the only way to bump that up a bit more is to use another humidifier. That's what I did for a long while til one died. I'm gonna get another one in a couple of days. I only buy or get humidifiers that don't need filter replacements.
As far as eating, you can try a juicy strawberry. They love it, even if they shouldn't have it. But, it won't hurt any to offer him it until he begins to eat again. I'd try cutting some fresh grass and weeds and place a bunch of it in front of him. Also, Bermuda hay may appeal to him. Just keep trying to offer these things.

 

[AliM29]

I will try to find an alternative humidifier. When I owned snaked, I used to have a very good one that allowed me to control the level of humidity. Why is it that he needs 80% though? As far as I know, there is no way their native habitat offers that much humidity (on average).

I have tried strawberries, dandelion greens, red leaf lettuce, spinach, melon rinds, and pretty much everything that used to be his favorite. He does not seem to be interested at all in any of it. When I put it down in front of him, he just looks at it and walks away. I don't want to have to resort to force feeding him as that's usually really traumatic to animals.

 

[AliM29]

Also, ever since I ramped up the heat and started giving him baths, he is developing these white flaky regions around his eyes (see attached photo). Is this from too much heat and him drying out, or could this be due to the hard water from the tap?

 

[Lyn W]

I hope he is getting better. A bigger water dish in his enclosure would me more accessible for him - many people use terracotta plant saucers big enough for torts to self soak, when they feel like it.
A useful thing I was told is that......

correct temps + humidity = healthy tort
too cold + humidity = sick tort

....something I always remember when I am adjusting humidity.

 

[AliM29]

I hope he is getting better. A bigger water dish in his enclosure would me more accessible for him - many people use terracotta plant saucers big enough for torts to self soak, when they feel like it.
A useful thing I was told is that......

correct temps + humidity = healthy tort
too cold + humidity = sick tort

....something I always remember when I am adjusting humidity.

I did buy him a very large terra-cotta plant saucer - it's about 12" in diameter. I also bought him some cypress mulch to put in his hide box to maintain the humidity at a higher level. Unfortunately he's still not eating and has gone to being less active again. I am going to take him to the vet again tomorrow and see what else I can do. The temperatures are all good, the humidity is correct, and he is getting daily baths. I'm not sure what else I can do for him.