Sulcata with bubbly nose

KarenT

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Hey guys!! I have a two and a half year old sulcatA names Franklin. Recently, he has begun periodically discharging clear bubbles from his nose. It's not super frequent, but it is happening. He is still eating like a cow and is still just as active as he has been. I am just worried this may be the onset of a respiratory infection. He chirps now and then also. I keep him in a large tortoise table with forest floor substrate. He has plenty of rocks and stuff to climb on and eats romaine, kale, arugula, parsley, red leaf lettuce and bermudagrass. I dust his food once a week with a special vitamin supplement just for sulcatas with extra calcium, vitamin A and d3. I have a mercury vapor bulb that keeps his basking spot in the upper 90s and the rest of the table hovers between 80-85. I am very worried about his bubbly nose.... Any suggestions??
 

dmmj

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Bubbly nose, not the eyes right? Bubbles like soap bubbles? An RI is usually a liquid, often green or yellow discharge from the nose, not usually bubbles. The chirping could be troublesome. I would keep a close eye on him for the moment. Watch for open mouth breathing, loss of appetite, a eating tortoise is usually a healthy tortoise.
 

KarenT

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The eyes seem normal. Not any more watery than normal. He has always chirped now and then, but lately I have noticed an increase. The bubbles seem to show up now and then during an exhale. And they are definitely clear. Any suggestions on what I can do to cut anything off at the pass?
 

dmmj

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So the chirping has increased, and do the bubbles seemmore, if so, it could be an RI, the start. I would bump the temps up a bit, and watch him. I wouldn't rush off to the vet just yet.
 

Tom

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What are you doing for night heat?

How are you keeping temps at 80 in the cool side of an open table?

RIs usually come from cool temps. They can often be "cured" by raising the temperatures 10 degrees all around. Keep the whole table around 90 day and night, with a 100-105 degree basking area for two weeks after symptoms cease. Soak daily in warm shallow water for 20-30 minutes during this time to insure good hydration.

A pic of your table might help.
 

KarenT

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Well I use a mercury build for the basking spot and heat tape lining the table all the way around for ambient temps. I raised the tape temps last night up 10 degrees and will watch. I don't want to lose my lil guys!!!!
 

Tom

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You have more than one? How many? What size enclosure?

How are you measuring those temps? It is usually very difficult to maintain 80 or 90 degree temps in an open topped enclosure in a 70 degree room. Evaporation from a damp substrate typically causes a cooling effect too.

Warmer temps will usually knock out a starting RI, but the cause still needs to be determined and eliminated. Cold temps are usually the cause, but stress can play a part in a hampered immune system too.

I think a photo of your torts and enclosure might give a us a better picture of what is going on there... Haha. See what I did there?
 

bouaboua

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Hello and Welcome. Looks like you are getting great advises here. I learn something here everyday.
 

KarenT

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Yes I have three total. One two and a half year old and two hatchlings. They are all in a tortoise table that is 4' by 3' and it is heated by a mercury bulb, heat tape and heat pads. I have 4 thermostats throughout the table and monitor them closely....
 

Tom

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How are you measuring your temperatures? With what devices and where?

I'm asking because heat tape produces very little heat and any heat that is produced in an open topped table is just going to drift up and out into the cooler room air. I mention this because RIs are typically caused by low temperatures. Usually at night. An open table, with damp substrate, at the start of winter is usually cooler than people think due to evaporative cooling. Adding more heat often cause more evaporation... Its a vicious cycle. I'm harping on this, because I hope that this can be established as your problem. It is common and easily fixed. If this is not your problem, then you might have a much harder time. Your temperatures sound good, but the way you say you are achieving them doesn't add up.

What was the source of your two hatchlings? How long was their quarantine before you introduced them into the older tortoises set up? Are you tracking the growth of the new ones? Got weights?
 

KarenT

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Well my tortoise table (I built it myself) is constructed of restored fence pickets and posts. It is 4' x 3' and the floor is lined with sheet aluminum for easy cleaning and optimal heat trapping. I have lined the side walls with 4" heat tape to creat a controlled temp around the perimeter. The floor is equipped with two heat pads that are set on thermostats also so I can control temps on either end. I use a mercury bulb during the day for basking and UVB and I use an I fared bulb at night to keep ambient night temps up to par. I have two thermostats located on the ground (one at each end) to measure ground temps, two thermostats on each end on the walls to measure ambient temps, and one thermostat right on the edge of the basking spot to measure that temp. I keep their hide area measures by a smaller thermostats and a hygrometer. I do not like to let the humidity get over 60% at any time in the hide box, and I keep the rest of the enclosure dry. I will take some pics later on tonight and post :)
 

KarenT

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Also, my babies both came from a very reputable exotics store that I have been a customer of for over two years now. I quarantined both of them for 60 days before putting them in the table. They were both VERY healthy and very heavy when I bought them. They eat like cows and are very active. My big guy is very active also and eats me out of house and home. :)
 

Tom

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What are you using for substrate?

Pics might offer some insight.
 

Ciri

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How is Franklin doing these days? Have the bubbles cleared up?
 

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