Third eyelid exposed for 2 weeks

robert1

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I have a year old hermann tortoise but both of his eyes are almost covered by his third eyelid. I soak him everyday and I don't know why its like that. The picture attached is when it's "better" after a soak. He usually won't open his eyes until I give him a soak, but if his eyes are open, it's barley even visible because its covered up. He always rubs his eyes and his nose seems to be blocked too.
 

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zovick

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I have a year old hermann tortoise but both of his eyes are almost covered by his third eyelid. I soak him everyday and I don't know why its like that. The picture attached is when it's "better" after a soak. He usually won't open his eyes until I give him a soak, but if his eyes are open, it's barley even visible because its covered up. He always rubs his eyes and his nose seems to be blocked too.
I suggest getting some Neo-Poly-Dex Ophthalmic drops from your vet and putting one drop in each eye twice a day for 10-14 days.

Also soak the tortoise DAILY for about 20-30 minutes in lukewarm water.
 

robert1

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I suggest getting some Neo-Poly-Dex Ophthalmic drops from your vet and putting one drop in each eye twice a day for 10-14 days.

Also soak the tortoise DAILY for about 20-30 minutes in lukewarm water.
I do soak daily but usually only for about 15 minutes. What do then drops do?
 

zovick

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I do soak daily but usually only for about 15 minutes. What do then drops do?
The drops have three ingredients. Two are antibiotics and the third is an anti-inflammatory. They should get the eyes back to normal for you assuming you are doing everything else correctly. IE, using the correct lighting (no MVB's or coiled fluorescent UV bulbs).
 

robert1

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The drops have three ingredients. Two are antibiotics and the third is an anti-inflammatory. They should get the eyes back to normal for you assuming you are doing everything else correctly. IE, using the correct lighting (no MVB's or coiled fluorescent UV bulbs).
Is it an infection your saying? I thought its just dirt in his eyes
 

zovick

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Is it an infection your saying? I thought its just dirt in his eyes
It may be infected. I can't tell by simply looking at a photo. Even if it is simply an irritation with no infection, the anti-inflammatory ingredient will treat that and correct it. That is the beauty of those drops. Not sure if you can even get them in the UK or not. In the US a prescription from a vet is needed to buy them.
 

robert1

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It may be infected. I can't tell by simply looking at a photo. Even if it is simply an irritation with no infection, the anti-inflammatory ingredient will treat that and correct it. That is the beauty of those drops. Not sure if you can even get them in the UK or not. In the US a prescription from a vet is needed to buy them.
Is there any other drops you know of that i can get in the uk or will any drops work
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

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Would you mind sharing some information on how you’re keeping him? Might help members spot the potential cause

Is he in a closed chamber set up?
What are your temperatures like? Ie basking spot(directly under the bulb) overall day temp, night temps?
What kind of lighting&heating are you using specifically? Packaging pics are good if you have any!
Do you use indoor uv? If so what kind?
How’s humidity? What substrate do you use?
How’s diet been with you?

A photo of your full set up would be great! And a full body photo of your tort would be nice if you’re willing to share more😊
 

robert1

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Would you mind sharing some information on how you’re keeping him? Might help members spot the potential cause

Is he in a closed chamber set up?
What are your temperatures like? Ie basking spot(directly under the bulb) overall day temp, night temps?
What kind of lighting&heating are you using specifically? Packaging pics are good if you have any!
Do you use indoor uv? If so what kind?
How’s humidity? What substrate do you use?
How’s diet been with you?

A photo of your full set up would be great! And a full body photo of your tort would be nice if you’re willing to share more😊
 

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Alex and the Redfoot

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Hello!
I sincerely don't want to upset you but a lot of changes are needed:
1. Lightning and heating: appears you have only a mercury vapour bulb. First, it should be installed straight top-down (no tilt). Second, is that it's not very flexible and reliable option - lifespan of 6 months, inability to set basking zone temperature independent of UV exposure and excessive IR-A output make them a bad choice. This is, perhaps, the number one issue to be addressed. Correct lightning setup consists of T5 linear lamp for UVB (Arcadia ProT5, Zoomed Reptisun or Reptile Systems are three viable options), flood type incandescent lamp for the basking area (ProRep Flood Basking Spot, Arcadia Solar Basking Floodlight etc.) and ambient LED light.
2. Beech chip substrate is not recommended for tortoises. A container with substrate containing limestone pieces should be removed as well. For a yearling Hermann's coco coir (soil-like ground coconut shells) is a way to go.
3. Water and food dishes are not very convenient for tortoise. Terracotta saucers (like those used under plant pots) are affordable and work best.
4. The enclosure itself is small and is an open table. For the first 3-4 years you will need a vivarium-type enclosure or a table covered with a greenhouse top. This is needed to retain humidity and sustain stable temperatures to ensure smooth shell growth.
5. A digital (with a display) thermometer/hygrometer is needed to understand environement parameters. You can get one or two from a hardware store nearby (usually much cheaper than from a pet store).

Eyes issue can be related to substrate in use, low humidity and incorrect UVB/heat lamp installation.

Please, ask questions, check equipment before ordering - we'll be happy to help.

Here is some posts on tortoise care to use as reference:
1. https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/info-for-new-people-please-read-this-first.202363/ - general very detailed guide.
2. https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/the-best-way-to-raise-any-temperate-species-of-tortoise.183131/ - care specifics for temperate species (like Hermann's)
3. https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/housing-young-russian-herman.217806/ - care for temperate species with good visuals
4. https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/common-keeping-errors.217956/ - common keeping errors
 

robert1

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Joined
Sep 28, 2024
Messages
6
Location (City and/or State)
Essex
Hello!
I sincerely don't want to upset you but a lot of changes are needed:
1. Lightning and heating: appears you have only a mercury vapour bulb. First, it should be installed straight top-down (no tilt). Second, is that it's not very flexible and reliable option - lifespan of 6 months, inability to set basking zone temperature independent of UV exposure and excessive IR-A output make them a bad choice. This is, perhaps, the number one issue to be addressed. Correct lightning setup consists of T5 linear lamp for UVB (Arcadia ProT5, Zoomed Reptisun or Reptile Systems are three viable options), flood type incandescent lamp for the basking area (ProRep Flood Basking Spot, Arcadia Solar Basking Floodlight etc.) and ambient LED light.
2. Beech chip substrate is not recommended for tortoises. A container with substrate containing limestone pieces should be removed as well. For a yearling Hermann's coco coir (soil-like ground coconut shells) is a way to go.
3. Water and food dishes are not very convenient for tortoise. Terracotta saucers (like those used under plant pots) are affordable and work best.
4. The enclosure itself is small and is an open table. For the first 3-4 years you will need a vivarium-type enclosure or a table covered with a greenhouse top. This is needed to retain humidity and sustain stable temperatures to ensure smooth shell growth.
5. A digital (with a display) thermometer/hygrometer is needed to understand environement parameters. You can get one or two from a hardware store nearby (usually much cheaper than from a pet store).

Eyes issue can be related to substrate in use, low humidity and incorrect UVB/heat lamp installation.

Please, ask questions, check equipment before ordering - we'll be happy to help.

Here is some posts on tortoise care to use as reference:
1. https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/info-for-new-people-please-read-this-first.202363/ - general very detailed guide.
2. https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/the-best-way-to-raise-any-temperate-species-of-tortoise.183131/ - care specifics for temperate species (like Hermann's)
3. https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/housing-young-russian-herman.217806/ - care for temperate species with good visuals
4. https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/common-keeping-errors.217956/ - common keeping errors
I don't use the food bowl as he can't reach in there, I just leave the food next to it, i know the bulb needs to be replaced even 6 months because it can stop working, do i need to replace it or get a second bulb?
 

Alex and the Redfoot

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I don't use the food bowl as he can't reach in there, I just leave the food next to it, i know the bulb needs to be replaced even 6 months because it can stop working, do i need to replace it or get a second bulb?
1. You need a piece of slate or clay plate for food. This prevents pieces of substrate being ingested.

2. You need to revamp heating/lightning setup to make it more effective and safe. And cheaper in the long run. See my post above: "Correct lightning setup consists of T5 linear lamp for UVB (Arcadia ProT5, Zoomed Reptisun or Reptile Systems are three viable options), flood type incandescent lamp for the basking area (ProRep Flood Basking Spot, Arcadia Solar Basking Floodlight etc.) and ambient LED light." Check link number 3 in my post above - there are photos of recommended bulbs and how they are placed over the enclosure.
 

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