TOO MUCH UV????

Tori67

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May 19, 2022
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Could a MVB lamp being too close cause strange symptoms? Such as less basking, lethargic, or not eating as much?

All other illness such as RI are ruled out. Went to vet and he was cleared, had good muscle tone, strong shell, etc.
 

Tori67

New Member
Joined
May 19, 2022
Messages
18
Location (City and/or State)
Connecticut
Whats the temperature in the enclosure and under the MVB? How do the eyes look?
He’s a Greek so his basking is 95-100° (Under UVB) warm side 80° cool side 70-75° His eyes look perfectly fine, he went to the vet and the vet said everything looked great. I’m using a MVB and it was way too close to him, but he doesn’t have any burns or eye issues
 

Tom

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He’s a Greek so his basking is 95-100° (Under UVB) warm side 80° cool side 70-75° His eyes look perfectly fine, he went to the vet and the vet said everything looked great. I’m using a MVB and it was way too close to him, but he doesn’t have any burns or eye issues
If its 95-100, then it isn't too close. That is just right.

Is there any other lighting in the enclosure? I recommend against MVBs. Lots of issues with them.

There are four elements to heating and lighting:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
  3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.
 

Tori67

New Member
Joined
May 19, 2022
Messages
18
Location (City and/or State)
Connecticut
I’ve heard controversy with MVB, so I already ordered floods, t5 Arcadia tube light (6% because its going to be 10 inch from his carapace) and then I have a CHE for ambient temps.

I switched enclosures and now there is a mesh in between. I wasn’t sure if the MVB is defective, because he seems to not even want to bask under it. When he is outside, he seems to be more active. I’ve been to the vet and they said everything looks fine. Could the MVB be causing weird symptoms maybe due to too much or not enough UVB?

Thank you so much for your help
 

Tori67

New Member
Joined
May 19, 2022
Messages
18
Location (City and/or State)
Connecticut
I’ve heard controversy with MVB, so I already ordered floods, t5 Arcadia tube light (6% because its going to be 10 inch from his carapace) and then I have a CHE for ambient temps.

I switched enclosures and now there is a mesh in between. I wasn’t sure if the MVB is defective, because he seems to not even want to bask under it. When he is outside, he seems to be more active. I’ve been to the vet and they said everything looks fine. Could the MVB be causing weird symptoms maybe due to too much or not enough UVB?

Thank you so much for your help
If its 95-100, then it isn't too close. That is just right.

Is there any other lighting in the enclosure? I recommend against MVBs. Lots of issues with them.

There are four elements to heating and lighting:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
  3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a d
If its 95-100, then it isn't too close. That is just right.

Is there any other lighting in the enclosure? I recommend against MVBs. Lots of issues with them.

There are four elements to heating and lighting:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
  3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.
He also seems to be avoiding the light at all costs. He goes into the far end of his enclosure into his hide. Could that mean something?
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
57,263
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
He also seems to be avoiding the light at all costs. He goes into the far end of his enclosure into his hide. Could that mean something?
Absolutely. Some MVBs produce too much UV, or the wrong type. This can burn their eyes and make them avoid it.

You need a UV meter to check the levels under your bulb. Solarmeter 6.5. 10 inches is awfully close even for a 6%.
 

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