under tank heating questions

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XxDarkEuphoriaxX

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Building a RedFoot Tort Table, 6 foot by 3 foot. Made out of plywood and 2x4's. I have plywood as the tank's base, and am going to use some type of material for waterproofing on the base and sides. Now, I was wondering if I could implement heating pads (exo terra brand?) inbetween the plywood and whatever I use as the waterproofing material throughout the enclosure as a sort of radiant always-on heating system.

I don't know if I should get the "rainforest" or "desert" ones... I assume the lower heat rainforest ones but IDK. Would this work? There would of course be a 1 inch or so layer of cypress mulch between the tort and the waterproofing material, then the heating pad(s), then under that the plywood base.

If I do this could I get away with NOT having a ceramic heat emiter(s) on 24/7 to keep the tank warm at night? I would have some sort of MVB and something else for light and UVB during the day. (I am thinking 2 normal output flourescent tubes for normal light)
Thanks :)
 

Madkins007

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I cannot answer the question as asked, but I used Flex-watt heating strips (http://www.bigappleherp.com/Flex-Watt-Heat-Tape) in my indoor table. I had a 9x4 floor-based pen- the floor was the room's wood floor with blue tarp on top, then several inches of a bioactive soil-based substrate. I ran two of the wider strips down the habitat and ran them off a Zoo-med thermostat.

I SHOULD have run 3 strips, per the salespersons recommendation. I also had a problem after a couple years where I accidentally placed a large planter on one strip and it scorched. Also remember to keep the soil moist around the strips to both cool them and to help dissipate the heat more evenly.

I still needed 2 CHEs overhead- a smaller one in the big hide, and a larger one in the warm space. The habitat was in a warm room even.

I think you would get better results from tenting over your table, but I would still bet you'll need a CHE as well. If you put it on a thermostat, the thermostat will turn it off automatically when it is not needed.
 

XxDarkEuphoriaxX

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ALSO, could I use "greatstuff" foam to spray underneith the table in the 2" lip created by the 2x4's to create additional insulation keeping heat in, etc? Do you think it would do any good? I would only be able to do this on the bottom, not the sides or top.

What do you mean "tenting" over the table....
 

PeanutbuttER

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I don't think the foam would do any harm. It's probably better than nothing and will help prevent the air from cooling the substrate from below I guess.
 

Balboa

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By tenting I think Mark means covering the enclosure in some way. He and I are both of the mind set that it is impossible to create a high heat/high humidity rainforest climate without some kind of containment. Water vapor and heat rise, so it becomes a losing battle with an open top table. Many folks claim to get adequate results... I'm skeptical :) Maybe once the entire room is heated and humidified to rainforest levels, then sure, it works, but that is hard on your walls.

Next time I build an indoor enclosure I'll be using some of this stuff

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Its meant to go into flooring in a home, primarily underneath tile, but will work under many surfaces.

I will set this on top of the plywood in thin-set, and then tile over the top using epoxy grout.

The key to any under-the-substrate type heating is to have a thermostat with a remote probe. The probe needs to be in near proximity to the heating element to prevent overheating.

If you read the fine print most pet store heating pads, wires, etc say specifically in their instructions NOT to bury them in substrate. This is because they can quickly overheat when covered.
 
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