URGENT ADVICE NEEDED - BULB WATT(?)

ShellingtonTheFirst

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Shellys new home is arriving on Friday and I’m today buying everything I need to put in there. My one problem is that the vivarium is 2ft high and I’m confused what wattage I need for the bulb for his basking spot. I’d ideally like it to get to 37c beneath it, and can get it to about 18 inches above the substrate but no lower (I don’t want to rig anything up to adjust the height either so what watt I need only please!) Anyone have an idea?
 

Tom

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Shellys new home is arriving on Friday and I’m today buying everything I need to put in there. My one problem is that the vivarium is 2ft high and I’m confused what wattage I need for the bulb for his basking spot. I’d ideally like it to get to 37c beneath it, and can get it to about 18 inches above the substrate but no lower (I don’t want to rig anything up to adjust the height either so what watt I need only please!) Anyone have an idea?
Only your thermometer can answer that question. We have no way of knowing.

Adjusting the height of your fixture is essential to getting the correct basking temp. Why can't you adjust the height? Just hang it lower or higher.

An alternative solution that might work is to buy a high wattage flood bulb, like a 150 or a 250, and run it on a rheostat, aka: dimmer switch. This will allow you to adjust the wattage up or down to get the correct basking temperature at tortoise shell height under the bulb.
 

ShellingtonTheFirst

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Only your thermometer can answer that question. We have no way of knowing.

Adjusting the height of your fixture is essential to getting the correct basking temp. Why can't you adjust the height? Just hang it lower or higher.

An alternative solution that might work is to buy a high wattage flood bulb, like a 150 or a 250, and run it on a rheostat, aka: dimmer switch. This will allow you to adjust the wattage up or down to get the correct basking temperature at tortoise shell height under the bulb.

I think that’s what I’m going to go for until I can measure the temp once the viv gets here. My small brain can’t figure out how to rig something to be able to adjust the height of the fixture, so I’m thinking if anything I can always add more substrate at a low incline for Shelly until the height is right. But for now, a 150 on a dimmer switch is what I’m going to toy with!

Also Tom, your thoughts if you may! An adjustable lamp stand (not a clamp lamp) inside of the vivarium, somehow bolted to the side of it inside to stop it tipping over?
 

Tom

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I think that’s what I’m going to go for until I can measure the temp once the viv gets here. My small brain can’t figure out how to rig something to be able to adjust the height of the fixture, so I’m thinking if anything I can always add more substrate at a low incline for Shelly until the height is right. But for now, a 150 on a dimmer switch is what I’m going to toy with!

Also Tom, your thoughts if you may! An adjustable lamp stand (not a clamp lamp) inside of the vivarium, somehow bolted to the side of it inside to stop it tipping over?
Hang it from the ceiling. You can use metal bailing wire or some light chain. Screw a screw eye, or coffee cup holder hook into the ceiling. Shorten or lengthen the wire or chain to get the right height.

A 150 watt bulb inside a vivarium is likely to overheat the whole thing. I use 65 watt bulbs in large closed chambers, and go down to 45 or 25 watts in hotter weather.
 

ShellingtonTheFirst

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Hang it from the ceiling. You can use metal bailing wire or some light chain. Screw a screw eye, or coffee cup holder hook into the ceiling. Shorten or lengthen the wire or chain to get the right height.

A 150 watt bulb inside a vivarium is likely to overheat the whole thing. I use 65 watt bulbs in large closed chambers, and go down to 45 or 25 watts in hotter weather.
Thank you! No thoughts on the lamp stand? Surely the same thing as rigging chains up, only more methodical? lol
 

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You can check different areas of your enclosure with a digital non contact thermometer such as the one I've attached. But this won't do the same job as a thermostat to keep the temperature constant.
These usually cost between $15 and $25 in American dollars
 

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ShellingtonTheFirst

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You can check different areas of your enclosure with a digital non contact thermometer such as the one I've attached. But this won't do the same job as a thermostat to keep the temperature constant.
These usually cost between $15 and $25 in American dollars

Yep, I know lol! I already have both. Was just concerned it wouldn’t get hot enough under his basking light because stupid me ordered an excessively tall vivarium. But, I’m going to go with Toms advice and rig up a hook and wire to hang the bulb with! Thank you anyway. :)
 

ShellingtonTheFirst

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Lamp stands are for use over open topped tables. They aren't for inside a closed chamber.
But why not? Doesn’t seem like such a bad idea to me, to bury the ‘stand’ part beneath substrate and secure the pole to the side. :D
 

Tom

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But why not? Doesn’t seem like such a bad idea to me, to bury the ‘stand’ part beneath substrate and secure the pole to the side. :D
Unnecessary clutter for one thing. Also, the metal base will rust under the damp substrate. Lamps stands are used when there is nothing over head to mount from. Your enclosure has a ceiling to mount from.
 

Yvonne G

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I think that’s what I’m going to go for until I can measure the temp once the viv gets here. My small brain can’t figure out how to rig something to be able to adjust the height of the fixture, so I’m thinking if anything I can always add more substrate at a low incline for Shelly until the height is right. But for now, a 150 on a dimmer switch is what I’m going to toy with!

Also Tom, your thoughts if you may! An adjustable lamp stand (not a clamp lamp) inside of the vivarium, somehow bolted to the side of it inside to stop it tipping over?
Zoo med makes a light stand that comes in two sizes. The 'foot' of the stand goes OUTSIDE and UNDER the enclosure. The height and arm lenghts are adjustable.
 
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If it’s that urgent
But why not? Doesn’t seem like such a bad idea to me, to bury the ‘stand’ part beneath substrate and secure the pole to the side. :D
what I done was to remove the base, and simply fix the stand to the inside of the table with brackets, then covered the stand inside the table with a pond liner to protect long term with moisture.
 
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