*****Waterproofing With Fiberglass Epoxy?****

[luke]

Does anyone here have any personal experiance in using Epoxy for waterproofing their Torts enclosure?

I'm thinking of using it for my redfoots enclosure that im building. I have epoxy and also some waterbased sparurithane or w/e its called. Anyhow, Im concerned that if I line the floor of the enclosure with epoxy, it will leach harmfulll chemicals into the substrate/water. I know there is no sudies on how this sort of thing effects Torts but I'm looking more for opinions, altho personal experiance would be best.

Somone started a thred about a similar topic recenty. But no one on there actualy said they have used epoxy before.

I'll show you pics of the progress soon.

 

[N2TORTS]

You could use epoxy. and its usally a two part product, another option is fiberglass/Resin. Still a 3rd option would be to line the bottom with a 20mil rubber and or lining of some sort. I would be safe to say you are trying to waterproof the entire enclosure? . Just a thought .... you might want leave some small drain holes/air ducts within the bottom . For torts ... no need for it to be water tight"....The down side of completly sealing the bottom up , you will develope molds and fungus even with regular cleanings. Slight air movement between the soil layers will keep things breaking down organically in a correct fashion with less "high" build ups of molds and fungi~
Once any of the above mentioned products are cured .. ( usally within 72 hours) ,,,there should be very minimum " toxins" that would harm your torts.
Happy Building"

JD~

 

[luke]

Thanks.

Have you used Epoxy or fiberglass resin for your Torts before?

Yes I am trying to waterproof all of the enclosure but I plan on allowing ventilation as well. I only really want to use the epoxy for the floor part since it be in constantly hight humidity if not wet. For the wood beams I'll probobly just use the Spar and then epoxy on the lower part of the beam.

When you say "within the bottom" are you talking about the floor of the enclosure or the sides but down at substrate level?

thanks
l

 

[Kristina]

I use Parks Superglaze epoxy resin (Home Depot.) It cures 100% non-toxic and hard as a rock. I have used it in fully submersed conditions (false back-grounds for fish tanks) for years with no problems. Then I just use GE Silicone to seal the cracks. You want the silicone to be the kind that does NOT have mold inhibitors. You can use other brands as long as it is 100% silicone (Walmart's "Mainstays" works well also.)

You also can spread silicone over the wood, if you have a lot of patience, lol. But using the epoxy resin is easier. Marine epoxies also work well (the two part paints used on the bottoms of boats) and are non-toxic, and come in different colors.

 

[HLogic]

Stay away from the water-based polyacrylic sealers. They are not meant for high moisture environments.

 

[lynnedit]

I use Parks Superglaze epoxy resin (Home Depot.) It cures 100% non-toxic and hard as a rock. I have used it in fully submersed conditions (false back-grounds for fish tanks) for years with no problems. Then I just use GE Silicone to seal the cracks. You want the silicone to be the kind that does NOT have mold inhibitors. You can use other brands as long as it is 100% silicone (Walmart's "Mainstays" works well also.)

You also can spread silicone over the wood, if you have a lot of patience, lol. But using the epoxy resin is easier. Marine epoxies also work well (the two part paints used on the bottoms of boats) and are non-toxic, and come in different colors.

I am interested in this as well. Do you use epoxy resin on floor and up the sides? sounds like you silicone AFTER epoxying? do you use drain holes as described earlier in the thread?
Thanks!

 

[luke]

OK TORT folks.

Here are some pics of what I have so far. Please keep in mind that this project initialy started as a "Spring/Summer" cage for my 3 leos. But I ended up getting two redfoots shortly after and decided to build a plastic glass box for them. Somthing that would hold the heat/humidity nicely and give me a good vew of the little squitlers. The original idea was to just make a shallow box and then cage off the top and sides with chicken wire, so my leos could get some sun. You'll notice the colums and some of the beams are darker then the others, thats because I was mixing some new wood with some old wood and I wish I hadnt done that because the polycarbonate wont fit as optimaly.

Im ranting.... check these pic

Here is a pic of my enclosure with just the frame and the floor in place.

Here is the enclosure with the floor out, and the back and two lids in place. one lid will have chicken wire and i will have a toob light. The biger lid will have a CHE under it. Still not sure on the wattage.

Let me know what you guys think so far. Please keep all the sujestions coming.

---

I use Parks Superglaze epoxy resin (Home Depot.) It cures 100% non-toxic and hard as a rock. I have used it in fully submersed conditions (false back-grounds for fish tanks) for years with no problems. Then I just use GE Silicone to seal the cracks. You want the silicone to be the kind that does NOT have mold inhibitors. You can use other brands as long as it is 100% silicone (Walmart's "Mainstays" works well also.)

You also can spread silicone over the wood, if you have a lot of patience, lol. But using the epoxy resin is easier. Marine epoxies also work well (the two part paints used on the bottoms of boats) and are non-toxic, and come in different colors.

Thanks, this helps a lot and makes me feel better about what Im doing.

 

[Kristina]

I use Parks Superglaze epoxy resin (Home Depot.) It cures 100% non-toxic and hard as a rock. I have used it in fully submersed conditions (false back-grounds for fish tanks) for years with no problems. Then I just use GE Silicone to seal the cracks. You want the silicone to be the kind that does NOT have mold inhibitors. You can use other brands as long as it is 100% silicone (Walmart's "Mainstays" works well also.)

You also can spread silicone over the wood, if you have a lot of patience, lol. But using the epoxy resin is easier. Marine epoxies also work well (the two part paints used on the bottoms of boats) and are non-toxic, and come in different colors.

I am interested in this as well. Do you use epoxy resin on floor and up the sides? sounds like you silicone AFTER epoxying? do you use drain holes as described earlier in the thread?
Thanks!

Yes, on all the inside surfaces. Then after it is cured, I run silicone along the cracks so there is no way that water can drip out. I haven't ever used a drain hole, usually I put a drainage layer of gravel in the bottom though.

 

[Aristotle]

I just received a Zoo Med Tortoise House. I am anxious to put it together and move my little greek baby out of her glass tank - it breaks my heart to see her scratching against the glass a lot. The thread above is very helpful regarding water-proofing, but all of the methods above appear to take time to dry/set/air out. Is there anything I can do to make the house immediately water-proof? Is there any liner that I can use that is equally as effective as the above methods? That said/asked, I want to do this right and from the thread I have learned that ALL inside surfaces should be waterproofed, so my basic question is how long do I have to wait after I have applied the Parks Superglaze epoxy resin and silicone sealer? I saw a reference to 72 hours above - is this the minimum time? Prepare for a dumb question ("construction" projects are not my forte) - should I apply the epoxy resin to all of the pieces BEFORE I put the house together? I assume the silicone sealer will be applied to all adjoining pieces after assembly.

Thanks!

-Kristina [very much a newbie but learning more every day!]

p.s. I am a different Kristina from Kyryah's mom above. She obviously is much more wise and experienced than I am re: tortoises.

 

[lynnedit]

I just received a Zoo Med Tortoise House. I am anxious to put it together and move my little greek baby out of her glass tank - it breaks my heart to see her scratching against the glass a lot. The thread above is very helpful regarding water-proofing, but all of the methods above appear to take time to dry/set/air out. Is there anything I can do to make the house immediately water-proof? Is there any liner that I can use that is equally as effective as the above methods? That said/asked, I want to do this right and from the thread I have learned that ALL inside surfaces should be waterproofed, so my basic question is how long do I have to wait after I have applied the Parks Superglaze epoxy resin and silicone sealer? I saw a reference to 72 hours above - is this the minimum time? Prepare for a dumb question ("construction" projects are not my forte) - should I apply the epoxy resin to all of the pieces BEFORE I put the house together? I assume the silicone sealer will be applied to all adjoining pieces after assembly.

Thanks!

Kyryah (Kristina) knows far more than I do about this, but I know you are anxious get get going. Yes, waiting for either polyurethane or epoxy resin can take up to a couple of weeks to cure and make sure the odor is gone. Your Zoomed house is probably somewhat treated, so what about getting either a heavy duty shower curtain, or some pond liner, or shower pan liner (by the foot at places like Home Depot) and lining it with that for now. Instant.
Cut it wider/longer than the floor size so you can run it up the sides past substrate level, fold at corners (kind of like making a bed) and staple gun to sides. Since it is not permanent, you can opt to use the epoxy resin, etc., if you want at a later date.

 

[jackrat]

I have used super low viscosity epoxy on plywood to build built in aquariums with great success.It goes on like water(super thin),and soaks into the wood before curing.I've never had plywood de-laminate or any fish suffer any ill effects.I have used epoxy from West Systems and Glen-L marine with good results.Whatever you use,let it cure for two weeks and then give it a good scrubbing with soap and water before using the enclosure.

 

[luke]

I just received a Zoo Med Tortoise House. I am anxious to put it together and move my little greek baby out of her glass tank - it breaks my heart to see her scratching against the glass a lot. The thread above is very helpful regarding water-proofing, but all of the methods above appear to take time to dry/set/air out. Is there anything I can do to make the house immediately water-proof? Is there any liner that I can use that is equally as effective as the above methods? That said/asked, I want to do this right and from the thread I have learned that ALL inside surfaces should be waterproofed, so my basic question is how long do I have to wait after I have applied the Parks Superglaze epoxy resin and silicone sealer? I saw a reference to 72 hours above - is this the minimum time? Prepare for a dumb question ("construction" projects are not my forte) - should I apply the epoxy resin to all of the pieces BEFORE I put the house together? I assume the silicone sealer will be applied to all adjoining pieces after assembly.

Thanks!

-Kristina [very much a newbie but learning more every day!]

p.s. I am a different Kristina from Kyryah's mom above. She obviously is much more wise and experienced than I am re: tortoises.

I cant help you much with your assembly questions but I did throw togeter a portable tort box out of scraps from my New tort project. I coated the inside and some of the ouside of the portable tort box so i can get the feel of working with the resin. Here is what I have.

This fiberglass resin dries prety fast, but the smell lingers for weeks. I let this box air out for about a week. I brough it into the living room one day and when I came back the whole room smelled like resin. This is after a week keep in mind. After two weeks it will still smell but it wont fill a room. I like to use it outside or close to a fan so the torts dont get too much fumes while it continues drying.

 

[datsunissan28]

If you are looking for something faster, why not use FRP boards (fiber reinforced plastic). The only wait time is if you seal the joints with silicone.

I used this in my Russians enclosure http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-New-Russian-Enclosure-Build#axzz1JDVdMoEF

This is a very proven method with Monitor enclosures (usually over a foot of substrate and they have much sharper claws)

You can usually find white FRP in 8'x4' sheets at home depot or lowes. If you want other colors you will have to custom order it.

 

[muddoc]

Below is a link to a product that I just ordered. I have not used it yet, but I will very shortly be building a cement structure for my outdoor tortoise pen that will be their pond. I wanted to coat the cement with something that will be water proof, so that the water won't soak through, and make it easier to clean when it gets dirty. I know this is a bit expensive, but if it is safe for use in Koi ponds, I am pretty sure it cannot harm the torts. I just got mine delivered yesterday, and I will probably be building the pond in about 2 weeks. So, I will give you an update after we try it out.

I hope this helps,

http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/3326/Fish-Pond-Coating

 

[jaizei]

I've been toying around with the idea of using something like this:
http://shop.tjb-inc.com/pond-armor-non-toxic-epoxy-liner-for-pond-pools--water-gardens-p1635.aspx

 

[luke]

Thanks for all the input on this one guys. I guess its not so bad to have my enclosure 70 miles away. I can still make design changes while the fiberglass dires out.

 

[Geochelone_Carbonaria]

I have used "vapor barrier" when I built all my terrariums. The same technique as when you build a bathroom and roll out liquid rubber coating under the tiles. This is quite expensive but it works really well. Just make sure it is really dry, then the smell is totally gone, before filling them with substrate.