Bullfrog21
New Member
Lol that I amI see you are from the USA. Me too!!!
What’s the best light for a land tortoise?
- Thread starter Bullfrog21
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Bullfrog21
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Here’s the 2 I have on my phone
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Bullfrog21
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- Nov 7, 2012
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- South of Southern California, but not Mexico
Cool, thanks for the images. Yvonne G is right, I don't often go to introductions, missed your photos from there.
To your original question.
Natural light is best, and it does not take a full outside life style to get what is needed. A few hours a week seems to be sufficient, and that effort to get them out when you can cost much less than all the electrical stuff and lighting apparatus,bulbs/tubes.
There is also providing nutrient based D3 which I'll figure is the basis of your concern?? There seems to be an incomplete published account of nutrient based D3 in the scientific mumbo jumbo, (for those who vacillate between demanding that kind of validation and then also discounting it). There is a large body of empirical evidence or anecdotal observations to suggest it does work with tortoises.
Then to your specific questions 'which lights'. I agree with the idea that heat and light should come from different sources as you may need one when the other is not needed. Heat on a thermostat, light on a timer is often suggested.
I very recently was able to provide two timers per enclosure by putting the whole circuit on a industrial timer. So I run the expensive UVA/UVB tubes for a few hours every day, and general lighting with less expensive tubes for the photo period. I use T5 HO fixtures (commonly called two foot and four foot, even though they are 22, and 46 inches long.) For UVA/UVB I use ZooMed and Arcadia tubes, 5.0 and 10.0 (amounts of the UV's). they are on about 3 hours per day now, mid day.
For general photo period light I use BlueMax tubes, they have a high correlation of color to the sun, and they put out a higher K. Wiki/google these things.
Heat from a none light emitting device is best, whether it is a CHE (ceramic heat element), or a some sort of radiant heat panel. automated with a thermostat.
To your original question.
Natural light is best, and it does not take a full outside life style to get what is needed. A few hours a week seems to be sufficient, and that effort to get them out when you can cost much less than all the electrical stuff and lighting apparatus,bulbs/tubes.
There is also providing nutrient based D3 which I'll figure is the basis of your concern?? There seems to be an incomplete published account of nutrient based D3 in the scientific mumbo jumbo, (for those who vacillate between demanding that kind of validation and then also discounting it). There is a large body of empirical evidence or anecdotal observations to suggest it does work with tortoises.
Then to your specific questions 'which lights'. I agree with the idea that heat and light should come from different sources as you may need one when the other is not needed. Heat on a thermostat, light on a timer is often suggested.
I very recently was able to provide two timers per enclosure by putting the whole circuit on a industrial timer. So I run the expensive UVA/UVB tubes for a few hours every day, and general lighting with less expensive tubes for the photo period. I use T5 HO fixtures (commonly called two foot and four foot, even though they are 22, and 46 inches long.) For UVA/UVB I use ZooMed and Arcadia tubes, 5.0 and 10.0 (amounts of the UV's). they are on about 3 hours per day now, mid day.
For general photo period light I use BlueMax tubes, they have a high correlation of color to the sun, and they put out a higher K. Wiki/google these things.
Heat from a none light emitting device is best, whether it is a CHE (ceramic heat element), or a some sort of radiant heat panel. automated with a thermostat.
Best lighting combo for a russian tortoise in my opinion:
1. 65 watt regular incandescent flood bulb from the hard ware store. Use a ceramic based fixture and hang it over the enclosure. Raise or lower it to get the correct basking temperature. Set it on a timer for 12-14 hours a day.
2. Additional "day" light. Use a long florescent tube. On the package it will tell you the "color temp" of the bulb. et something in the 5000-6500K range. Anything in the 2500K range will look yellowish. Set this bulb on the same timer as your heat lamp, or you can use a separate timer if you like.
3. UV tube. I have found the newer "HO" type bulbs to be the best and they can be mounted higher than "regular" 10.0 bulbs. I get mine from this guy:
http://www.lightyourreptiles.com
4. If your house stays above 60 degrees at night, then you shouldn't need night heat. If you do need night heat, it is best provided by a ceramic heating element set on a thermostat.
1. 65 watt regular incandescent flood bulb from the hard ware store. Use a ceramic based fixture and hang it over the enclosure. Raise or lower it to get the correct basking temperature. Set it on a timer for 12-14 hours a day.
2. Additional "day" light. Use a long florescent tube. On the package it will tell you the "color temp" of the bulb. et something in the 5000-6500K range. Anything in the 2500K range will look yellowish. Set this bulb on the same timer as your heat lamp, or you can use a separate timer if you like.
3. UV tube. I have found the newer "HO" type bulbs to be the best and they can be mounted higher than "regular" 10.0 bulbs. I get mine from this guy:
http://www.lightyourreptiles.com
4. If your house stays above 60 degrees at night, then you shouldn't need night heat. If you do need night heat, it is best provided by a ceramic heating element set on a thermostat.
Bullfrog21
New Member
All this information is Awesome! Thank you guys so much! I wasn’t far off on my care, I just need to get a new heating elimante
Morrison
New Member
As a general matter, heat, light, and a good soak will help draw a lethargic tort out of its doldrums. On the heat point, a warm basking area is critical, in the neighborhood of 88 - 95 degrees, along with a corresponding cool zone, in the neighborhood of 73 - 75 degrees. On the light point, a good UVA/UVB bulb willl help, and lastly, on the soaking point, some shallow warm water (baby bath temp), in 15 - 30 minute intervals once a day. (Regarding food, a feeding response will follow once the tort has been perked up by the other steps, and I’ll let other folks on this forum, as well as the Internet, provide advice on food-type for the tort.). You can maintain your hot-end temp at night by switching to a non-visible-light emitting bulb, available at most pet stores and via the internet. I’m not one of those who believes in eliminating the heat source at night, even if/though my overall room temp at night stays above 65. IMHO, it is good/useful to maintain your “hot” end day and night. Appropriate heat gradient = tort health and vitality. Just some thoughts.
