What would you want a new keeper to know?

[Madkins007]

A bit if background... when I got back into Redfoots, I found there is a ton of new info scattered across hundreds of sites, so I started writing a book. When Vinke's and Pingleton's new books came out I decided to open the range of my book- which will probably never be published but might make the core of a website someday.

The new focus is on Forest Tortoises. The question is: What would you want keepers, new or somewhat experienced, to know about Hinge-backs, especially where they differ from Redfoots?

Species-specific info would be wildly appreciated, and any source info you can share for your ideas would be wonderful.

I will give credit, and preliminary copies of anything that results from this for ideas. If anyone wants to tackle actually writing these sections, I'll show you what I have so far and we can see if we can work together.

Remember- right now this is more of a homework assignment than anything that might show a profit- but who knows????

 

[gummybearpoop]

This is a nice idea. I don't know much about hinge-backed tortoises. I wouldn't mind reading about them though. They have always fascinated me, but I don't even attempt to work with them since I live in a very hot and dry region of the United States. Good luck!

 

[Itort]

My Homes are more carnivous then Rfs (remind me of North American boxturtles) and prefer a heavier foliage enviornment. They are not as big a greens eater as others prefering fruit and animal protein. They are most active at dawn and sunset than other times of day Like all forest torts they enjoy a daily shower (rainstorm) and more prone to breed this time..

 

[Laura]

Forest dwellers, dont hibernate. temps, Diet, and they tend to be very wormy/buggy species. Not for beginners.

 

[Jacqui]

One of my dreams is to someday write a book on the hingebacks.

Laura I am going to disagree with you. I use to believe that they indeed were not for beginners, today I am starting to change my mind. It seems for whatever reason the last few groups of hingebacks I have seen are healthier and not so shy. Add to that, the rapidly increasing knowledge on their care and todays hingebacks are becoming much easier for even a beginner to work with...if they are willing to work with them and research their needs. As for the buggie/worm thought, even that I am not seeing in my newest groups as bad as in the past. I would not use those terms on them any morte then on any other WC tortoise.

I think one of the important things people need to know is that these animals can be very shy, until they become use to people and captivity. This is one reason why newly acquired animals often need to have their feed dish right near the hide until they become more outgoing.

They may not hibernate, but my animals do have a slight winter slow down. Plus when the weather becomes hot in the summer, they often slow down and do a slight estivation (sp?).

Humidity is super important, especially with the Erosa and the Homes. All of them require the availabilty of water sources that are large enough to get into and soak.

Hides, plants and other visual blocks are very important, especially with new imports.

These guys tend to love their worms and bugs. The nice thing with the earthworms is you can dip the worm into cacium/vitamin supplements. This can be vitial I think, if you end up with one of those hingebacks who is having a hard time adjusting to captivity and not eating. Ripe fruit is another favorite and the riper the better it seems. For some ripe bananas may be the first food they take. Mushrooms, too are favorites.
Greens and blooms tend to be lower on their list, but they should be offered, as some do enjoy them and most will occasionally eat them. I have an Erosa that really enjoys her hibiscus blooms. With Erosas and even Homes) many times goldfish seem to be readilty taken. Tuna and other fish pieces also work at times.

With Hingebacks you need to be open to trying new things. Especially new WC can be challenging, but once you break thru their sometimes picky eating you will find a whole new animal. They soon learn you won't hurt them and they actually become outgoing and great beggers. It's very hard to resist the doe like liquid eyes that seem to melt your heart and make it all worth while.

 

[Madkins007]

Thanks to all of you, especially iTort and Jacqui. Very helpful!

Red- and Yellow-foots do best when there is some fiberous hay-like material in the diet according to Vinke and Vetter, and others. Is there any thing like this with Hinge-backs?

 

[Jacqui]

Thanks to all of you, especially iTort and Jacqui. Very helpful!

Red- and Yellow-foots do best when there is some fiberous hay-like material in the diet according to Vinke and Vetter, and others. Is there any thing like this with Hinge-backs?

Not in my experience with them. As a general rule, they aren't much into greens at all and fiberous types even less.

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I should also clearify, that generally the Bells and Speks have a higher acceptance/need for the greens, then do the Homes and Erosa, just as they can do with less humidity.

 

[Redfoot NERD]

Thanks to all of you, especially iTort and Jacqui. Very helpful!

Red- and Yellow-foots do best when there is some fiberous hay-like material in the diet according to Vinke and Vetter, and others. Is there any thing like this with Hinge-backs?

Actually Mark the more I hear you refer to Vinke and Vetter.. the more I wonder how I've managed to keep my redfoots alive and propagate as they have - very little have I experienced to be true in comparison to what they claim(?).. universally! The Burmuda grass in the outdoor enclosre is so tall they hide in it.. but don't eat it. Who are these others that claim their redfoots eat "fiberous hay-like material"?

My K. erosa have shown little or no interest in greens. A nibble or 2 on yellow squash is about it.

No doubt the WC Kinixys coming in now are in better shape than from even 10 years ago. And the easiest way to get any new addition to eat is to set them up.. and don't touch them until they start to move around on their own. Then offer them mushrooms or cooked sweet potato [ that they are known to eat - nothing else ] each evening .. close to their hide like Jacqui suggests.. until they eat - they will not starve themselves. THEN maintain them as you see fit. I did "treat" mine after they had begun to eat and move around on there own.

Terry

 

[Madkins007]

Thanks, Terry!

Any thoughts on why the Hinge-backs are coming in better now?

 

[egyptiandan]

The ones that are coming in better now are K.spekii. They seem to take being imported better than K.homeana or K.erosa. They are probably working on a quicker turn around time from when collected to being shipped. That and they are probably feeding them in Africa before shipping.
The one thing I'd tell new owners with WC animals is to set them up alone until they are doing well. This cuts down tremendously on stress levels and will help them settle in better.

Danny

 

[pyxistort]

My home's hingebacks are the exception here. They eat 90% greens and some mazuri + some fruits. They are healthy and laid 6-8 eggs in past three year.

Hydration was the most important thing when I received these WC Home's. I soaked them in bathtub for almost two week. I provided pumpkin, sweet potato, and boiled chicken. I also tried mushroom, and fruit. All I did was to keep them hydrated and started eating by themselves. Now, they are one of the low maintenance tortoise I have.

Scott

 

[Jacqui]

Red- and Yellow-foots do best when there is some fiberous hay-like material in the diet according to Vinke and Vetter, and others. Is there any thing like this with Hinge-backs?

Actually there are some folks who do feed the hay (cut fine and sprinkled on the food so they eat it). The reasoning is the belief it will help with worms.

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The ones that are coming in better now are K.spekii. They seem to take being imported better than K.homeana or K.erosa. They are probably working on a quicker turn around time from when collected to being shipped. That and they are probably feeding them in Africa before shipping.
The one thing I'd tell new owners with WC animals is to set them up alone until they are doing well. This cuts down tremendously on stress levels and will help them settle in better.

Danny

Actually Danny, I was referring to the Homes and Erosa Hingebacks. I can't say about the Spekii since I have only had them about a year and a half. With the other two, comparing them to fresh imports I purchased even just three years ago, this year's crop was so much better. They were more like long term captives. All my Erosa (and all the ones I have heard about from these same two shipments) came out of the box active, eating, and with little shyness. The Homes were not quite that good, but certainly within a couple of days all were eating. To be honest, the Spekii I got in this year have been slow to really come around.

I do agree, I think it's a quicker turnaround time. I think maybe the fact we are learning how to get them going also helps. Plus we can always hope that maybe how they have been shipped and cared for right after capture has improved.

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My home's hingebacks are the exception here. They eat 90% greens and some mazuri + some fruits. They are healthy and laid 6-8 eggs in past three year.

Hydration was the most important thing when I received these WC Home's. I soaked them in bathtub for almost two week. I provided pumpkin, sweet potato, and boiled chicken. I also tried mushroom, and fruit. All I did was to keep them hydrated and started eating by themselves. Now, they are one of the low maintenance tortoise I have.

Scott

Congrats on the eggs! Have you gotten them to hatch?

I agree, with hydration being very important to these guys. I know one person who does very well who keeps them almost as a water or maybe I should say a bog type turtle. I think that is one of the biggest reasons the ones coming out of being kept in pet stores for awhile have more troubles. These guys all love their pools.