I have been using the mini oil radiator heater, but my 60 lb.er has grown so that it's a tight fit in his 2' x 4' insulated night box. Not in a position to make a new box at the moment, wondering if a radiant panel (same as Kane heating mat?) would keep it warm enough in So Cal winters. Or how about a CHE if mounted at the other end of the box from where he sleeps? Thanks for any help!
I personally really like the brandy new RHP that we installed in our Sullys indoor night box (6x3x2).
https://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels
These new RHPS now at ReptileBasics are very easy to install, easily hook into your thermostat, AND create a really nice cozy warmth in an enclosure.
I have a Kane mat on the bottom, a RHP in the ceiling. Works very very well.
Id stay away from a CHE for a large tort, go with the RHP.
Good luck.
https://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels
These new RHPS now at ReptileBasics are very easy to install, easily hook into your thermostat, AND create a really nice cozy warmth in an enclosure.
I have a Kane mat on the bottom, a RHP in the ceiling. Works very very well.
Id stay away from a CHE for a large tort, go with the RHP.
Good luck.
Thanks for that! How does this panel differ from a
Thanks for this! How does the RHP differ from a Kane mat, does it actually radiate heat rather than act as a heating pad, which I assume the mats do. I would hope to get away with just the RHP as the box isn't big enough for a mat on the bottom (he wouldn't really be able to get off of it if he wanted to) Since I see that you are in Maryland, perhaps with my night temps rarely dipping below mid 30's in So Cal it could work?) what wattage would you recommend? Appreciate your input!
Thanks for this! How does the RHP differ from a Kane mat, does it actually radiate heat rather than act as a heating pad, which I assume the mats do. I would hope to get away with just the RHP as the box isn't big enough for a mat on the bottom (he wouldn't really be able to get off of it if he wanted to) Since I see that you are in Maryland, perhaps with my night temps rarely dipping below mid 30's in So Cal it could work?) what wattage would you recommend? Appreciate your input!
THey project heat and warm the objects nearby. It does not produce heat like a CHE. This Infrared Heat tends to heat objects more than the air, much like the natural sunlight outdoors
This info will help too -
https://www.reptilebasics.com/radiant-faq
For your enclosure, probably the 80 watt RHP
— 80 watt panel measures approximately 12.5"x22.5"x1.75" (overall dimensions).
JUST make sure you hook up via a thermostat.
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BTW my Leopard loves his 28W in his hide!
The Kane mat is designed to be laid upon. It doesn't "project" heat. The RHP projects the radiant heat down ward. They make different sizes of both.
You will need both. One or the other isn't enough when temps drop into the 40s or lower. You can get an 18x18" mat that should fit in your box and also allow him to get off of it. I use the 18x28" Kane mats and the 12x21" RHP and these two things working together maintain temps in the 80s for me in winter. I've got a box with just a Kane mat that I use for summer, and as the nights cool, I have to move that tortoise back to its winter quarters.
Thanks for the info! So much easier (and cheaper!) with the oil radiator but there's really not enough room for both him and it in the box now, and not really in a position to get a new box made.... darn it.
Just out of curiosity, any ideas which method is more cost efficient? It seems my electric bills went up a fair bit after my tortoise moved into my life... ; ))
Just out of curiosity, any ideas which method is more cost efficient? It seems my electric bills went up a fair bit after my tortoise moved into my life... ; ))
THe RHP will be more cost efficient since it will only heat the tort not the air. For you the size is the deciding factor since an RHP only adds about one inch of thickness to the wall it is mounted on and compared to even a mini oil radiator it can't compare. The initial cost is the issue since you already have the oil radiator and I assume you are made of money cause I am not! Since if a 80 watt RHP is about $125 and per day that is 34 cents or 10 dollars a month extra the first year. Over the long term you will save money and electricity with the RHP, but initially you won't. It was like when LED's came out and everyone bought them to save money, but saving pennies a day is lost to the initial outlay. Just remember is that if the RHP allows you to put off increasing the box for a few years then that alone is a win and you can then use it in the new box later
This is a tough one to answer. You'd have to try both and actually measure to really know. The mini radiators run at 700 watts. That sounds like a lot, but they only run for a short time, and then the hot oil keeps giving off heat for a long time after the thermostat shuts the heater off. In a well insulated box, the old heater only kick on two or three times a night. In my 4x8' boxes, it cost .18 cents a day on average to run the oil heater in a 4x8' box.
By contrast, the RHP/Kane mat combo burns 80 watts plus 78 watts for a total of 158. That sounds like a lot less wattage, but because they produce less heat and have almost no heat inertia, they run a lot more on a given night.
In practice, I found that they both used similar amounts of electricity. The oil heaters were not on and running much, where the Kane mat/RHP combo ran a lot more over the course of a night to maintain temps.
The deciding factor on either is how well sealed and insulted the box is.
Insulation is totally key! I have some old 3 inch styrofoam lining the box, the only trick there is keeping the chickens out of it as for some reason they LOVE to eat it! If it's true, as Tom says, that I would need both a pig mat and the RHP I think I will buy another small radiator heater (wire frayed on first one) and put it in the back with some sort of wall seperating the tort and the heater (it fits in the back, just not on the side as he goes in headfirst but, unlike a car, does not back out but turns around, which is where the fit issues come into play) Thanks for your input. (any ideas of how a not too handy DIY er can put up a somewhat removeable barrier to both secure and seperate tort from heater)
just need to box around it with plywood just taller than the tort can reach. loop some small chain through the radiator and screew to the wall to keep from tipping over.
To steal from Tom
This can be a fire hazard and an electrocution risk to your tortoise if not done correctly. The frayed wire on your last heater tells me there is a problem.
Where are you? Sounds like you need some help. If someone here on the forum can't help, I think you should hire a handyman. I'm up in Santa Clarita. How far away are you?
Torts do love to rub around and knock stuff loose!
I've done the same in both my Leopards Night Box as per @Tom's suggestion. It has worked beautifully.
Nicely said!!!
