Worried beginner

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karleyreed

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Just wondering if anyone can give me some advice. I have just got a baby western Herman tortoise who is around 8 month old. I only got him 2 days ago but being a first time buyer I'm already worried. As I've never had a tortoise as a pet before I don't know what the norm is. I've done a lot of research but everything i read seems to be different. He is kept in a 4x2 vivarium wood all around and glass front. The man in the shop advised me to have his heat light at 32 during the day and 22 on a night but other people I know turn their heat light off on a night. I'm worried incase I do this he will go into hibernation and I don't want that. Also, he stays in the same spot quite a lot, is this normal? Advice and comments would be appreciated.
 

wellington

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Hello and Welcome:) Get a ceramic heat emitter for night time heat. No light, but only heat. Torts should be in the dark at night. Give us a run down of the temps you do have, basking spot, hot side, cool side, humidity. Food your feeding, soaking daily? Or every other day? As much info has you can.
 

karleyreed

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Yeah I turn his UV light off on a night but keep the ceramic heat emitter on. I turn it on to 32 degrees C during the day and 22 on a night. Cool end of his tank during day is usually around 28ish? Is this too hot? I've read a lot of negative things about vivariums and I'm quite worried incase I'm not keeping him in the correct environment.
 

karleyreed

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Also I'm basking him daily and currently just trying him on a variety of foods such as lettuce, greens, carrots, strawberries, tomatos and melon. I put calcium and neutrobol on his food daily too.
 

Pokeymeg

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Hermanns do not need nighttime heat, unless your house is exceptionally cold or your tortoise is sick. They can handle night temps as low as 60-65, and actually are healthier when they have that daily fluctuation. :)
 

karleyreed

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Eventhough I live in the north east of England where it can get really cold in winter months? He won't go into hibernation if I turn it off will he? Just I think that's how he has been kept in the store I got him from and was weary of changing his routine. Also, what's your thoughts on vivariums?
 

GBtortoises

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32c (89.50f) is fine for a basking temperature for a baby Hermann's. A degree or two warmer would be a bit better. 22c(71.50f) is more than warm enough at night.

You do not need a night time heat source.

Testudo species are accustomed to and should have a day to night temperature differential of 15-20 degrees (in fahrenheit). Night time temperatures should be closer to the 13.50c (56f) to 18c (64f) Somewhere in the middle of that being ideal. Outdoors they easily tolerate even much colder temperatures with adequate shelter. Keeping a tortoise, especially a Testudo species consistently hot all the time causes they're body to function at levels that are much higher than normal almost non-stop. This over a period of time will cause accelerated growth deformities. They need the temperature differentials to grow and function at a normal rate.

The diet needs to be expanded greatly to include a variety of edible weeds or when they are not available good quality grocery store greens. Diet can include (but not be limited to): Dandelion, sow thistle, mallow, chicory, lambsquarter, broad & narrow leaf plantain, clover and other weeds. As well as: endive, escarole, chicory, mustard greens, collard greens, beet greens, romaine, kale and occasionally some spinach. Vegetables, which should only consist of about 15% of a Hermann's diet can include (but again not be limited to): squashes, pumpkin, sweet potato, green & yellow beans, peas and occasionally other vegetables in moderation. Stay away from fruits such as melons, tomatoes, apples, grapes, berries and others. They are high in sugar and acid content that Testudo species such as Hermann's are not evolved to digest in large quantities. An occasional fruit is fine but absolutely not necessary to their diet.

Your tortoise will not go into brumation (hibernation) if you maintain regular activity level temperatures listed above as well as keeping the lights on about 15 hours a day as well as having the right lamps to produce the correct daytime intensity.
 

karleyreed

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Thankyou for your advice it has been very helpful. My tortoise is kept in a vivarium but I've recently read bad reports on this.
 

GBtortoises

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Vivariums are not ideal housing for tortoises, but they aren't terrible either. The concern has always been the high sides creating a lack of adequate air flow. However this would be no different than having any other high sided enclosure, which most people do in order to have sides high enough to prevent escape. The biggest issue with any clear sided enclosure is that tortoises don't realize the concept of a clear barrier such as glass. There is nothing comparible in their natural environment. They will often pace restlessly back and forth against the glass for hours attempting to get through it. This can easily be cured by covering the bottom half or more of any clear sides with a solid material. Many people use dark paper, tape or even paint. Tortoises that cannot see through their glass sides are usually more calm.
 

karleyreed

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So he will be ok to live in a vivarium? He's too small ATM to escape so I open his doors for a few minutes on a morn and night to ensure fresh air is getting in and out even though he does have 2 air vents. Also, it only has one glass side the rest are all hard wood so he can't see through it. The glass begins about 30cm up from the bottom of the viv also so that there is no clear visibility for him to see out of.
I've attached a picture which isn't the best, but you generally get the idea.


Vivarium pik
 

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GBtortoises

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An enclosed vivarium has an advantage of being able to hold heat and humidity well. But it also must be monitored to make sure that it doesn't not get too hot within the enclosure. This is especially true of night temperatures that should drop lower than daytime temperatures. Air flow is very important to help prevent mold and bacteria.

It would be a good idea to recess the water and food dishes into the substrate so that the top edge of them are at substrate level. By having them raised above the substrate it makes it more difficult for a tortoise, especially a small one, to get to the water. It is also more natural for them to seek water at ground level or lower.
 

Terry Allan Hall

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karleyreed said:
Also I'm basking him daily and currently just trying him on a variety of foods such as lettuce, greens, carrots, strawberries, tomatos and melon. I put calcium and neutrobol on his food daily too.

Too much fruit...he/she needs dark green veggies like turnip, collard, mustard greens, kale, romain lettuce (NEVER iceberg, though), chopped cactus pads, various weeds and such, but fruit should be only an occasional treat (mine get it about once a month) because fruit can mess with the natural "flora" in his/her guts (which are very important).
 
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