Is it worth getting a ceramic heat emitter for a hatchling? At the moment the temperate is around 20 at night. During the day the basking area side is 36 and the cooler side is around 22. Would I need a CHE?
Natalie x
Natalie x
Ceramic heat emitter for baby hermann
- Thread starter Natalie44
- Start date
Yes you should. The day time all over temp should be 75-80F
Basking 95-100F
Night 70F
Basking 95-100F
Night 70F
The_Four_Toed_Edward
Well-Known Member
20C is the lowest I would go, if you fear that it will drop any lower, a CHE with a thermostat will avoid this problem alltogether.
Thank you for your reply and advise. Will the CHE affect the humidity? Will it lower while it’s on?
Thank you for your advise
is the ceramic heat emitter I attached okay? Or is zoomed preferred?Attachments
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
Definitely get a ceramic to make up the heat, it shouldn’t affect the humidity providing you’re going to be adding the greenhouse covering.Thank you for your advise
I’d personally opt for the zoomed simply because I know the brand is reputable, sometimes the cheap CHE’s don’t last very long, however that one you attached should also do the job for the time it works
ZooMed, Arcadia and ProRep (UK local brand) are known to be working for years without issues. With cheaper alternatives (like SwellReptile and numerous chinese brands) you play a lottery: it can die in a few weeks or work as new for decades.Thank you for your advise
Make sure to get a thermostat to watch temperatures and turn heater on and off for you. A simple on/off thermostat will do the job. Habistat are reliable.
Okay greatDefinitely get a ceramic to make up the heat, it shouldn’t affect the humidity providing you’re going to be adding the greenhouse covering.
I’d personally opt for the zoomed simply because I know the brand is reputable, sometimes the cheap CHE’s don’t last very long, however that one you attached should also do the job for the time it works
what are some other ways to amp up the humidity? I’ve heard putting the water dish close to the basking area can help? And spraying the substrate 3 times a day.Natalie x
Ah thank you. I’ll have a look at the Arcadia CHE. Would I need a dome bulb holder for that?
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
The water by the heat can definitely help, as well as real plants.Okay great
Natalie x
I’d recommend pouring some Luke warm water into the corners of the substrate(if you haven’t already maybe add some liner like a shower curtain or cheap ponder liner, I only say cause I notice your table is wooden)not loads, but enough to keep the under layer damp, creating the humidity, but keeping the top layer dry, the trouble with constant misting is one, too much air moisture, which can cause respiratory issues, and two, it could keep the top of your substrate too damp, which if your tort is sat on all day can cause a mild fungal infection.
If after the pours your humidity is still struggling at times, then by all means I don’t think a light spray here n there will hurt, we used to have to do things that way with our old enclosure that could no longer hold the humidity properly.
To be honest though, I think with the greenhouse and pouring, your humidity should be ok
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
I’d probably opt to use a dome as it helps project the heat downwards, it depends, some don’t and find their temps are still ok, a dome fitting definitely wouldn’t hurt though
Thank you so much for your words of wisdomI’d probably opt to use a dome as it helps project the heat downwards, it depends, some don’t and find their temps are still ok, a dome fitting definitely wouldn’t hurt though
another thing (sorry!) I’ve noticed even though the temperatures good at the moment on each end of the enclosure the coco coir is damp and a little cool to touch. Is that okay? Do you think once I get the CHE the substrate will get a little warmer?Natalie x
It's okay when it's damp and cool in the open table - water evaporates from substrate cooling it down. With a greenhouse on top heat distribution will be more even and because of higher ambient humidity there will be less evaporation. Also, tortoises often burrow to cool down, so it works as intendedThank you so much for your words of wisdom
Natalie x
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
The substrate feeling a little cool is ok because they bury themselves down into it to thermo regulate/cool down, as long as the ambient temperatures are reading correctly then it’s fine, I would personally go for digital monitors over gauges for a more accurate reading on your air temps, the probes are more reliable, but don’t worry if you have gauges for now, just do plenty of back up checks with a temp gun(they’re reasonably priced) things will also warm up once you have you greenhouse topper.Thank you so much for your words of wisdom
Natalie x
As for the che, that isn’t going to be giving you extra heat, it acts to make up for any loss of heat in the environment, hence it will need to be on a thermostat(on/off one will work fine) so it doesn’t get too warm. Say on a cooler day if your flood lamp isn’t getting the ambient temp high enough, a che will kick in to make up for it, same with cooler nights once the floodlight is off, if the temp drops too much it will kick in
You guys are so smart! Lol I’m glad I came across this forumThe substrate feeling a little cool is ok because they bury themselves down into it to thermo regulate/cool down, as long as the ambient temperatures are reading correctly then it’s fine, I would personally go for digital monitors over gauges for a more accurate reading on your air temps, the probes are more reliable, but don’t worry if you have gauges for now, just do plenty of back up checks with a temp gun(they’re reasonably priced) things will also warm up once you have you greenhouse topper.
As for the che, that isn’t going to be giving you extra heat, it acts to make up for any loss of heat in the environment, hence it will need to be on a thermostat(on/off one will work fine) so it doesn’t get too warm. Say on a cooler day if your flood lamp isn’t getting the ambient temp high enough, a che will kick in to make up for it, same with cooler nights once the floodlight is off, if the temp drops too much it will kick in
I’ve attached a picture of a digital thermometer that I found. Let me know if it’s any good 
and the other pic is the thermometer I’ve already got. Is it any good?Natalie x
Attachments
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
Yep that one you’ve attached will work fine, we use the combometer version of that monitor(to measure both the humidity and the temperature)never had any issues with itYou guys are so smart! Lol I’m glad I came across this forum
Natalie x
I can’t speak for the other monitor but I think lots of members use similar ones so I’m sure it’s fine
Ah brilliantYep that one you’ve attached will work fine, we use the combometer version of that monitor(to measure both the humidity and the temperature)never had any issues with it
I can’t speak for the other monitor but I think lots of members use similar ones so I’m sure it’s fine
thank god you said the one I already have is fine because the other one was pricey! Lol so would I absolutely need a pulse thermostat for the CHE? or would a temperature gun suffice?Natalie x
Littleredfootbigredheart
Well-Known Member
Sorry I did mean the one you attached as in the exo terra(we use the combo version of it)it’s a good investment.Ah brilliant
Natalie x
But the one you have, I believe it’s an incubator style? I’ve seen plenty of members use, they absolutely do the job if you’re doing back up checks with the temp gun
As for the thermostat, the CHE will definitely need to be on one, without it, it will be turned on at all times which could overheat the enclosure, a thermostat probe gauges what the temperature in the enclosure is, so the CHE bulb only turns on when needed. As for it being a pulse thermostat however, whilst they are technically more sophisticated and designed for CHE’s(we use them and like them) they are more pricey, a 600w on/off thermostat will do the trick
The cheaper thermomter/hygrometer is fine. You can get them from a hardware store for 5 pounds. The only downside - it doesn't have wires with a probe, so it's a bit harder to place. And no cute lizard on the packaging.Ah brilliant
Natalie x
You don't need pulse thermostat, cheaper on/off will work. Thermostat turns heater on and off automatically to maintain desired temperature. Temperature gun - just measures surface temperatures (basking area slate, tortoise shell, substrate in the hide and so on).
On my list of priorities a thermostat is more important (and helps to save on electricity bill - on warmer days it keeps heater off)
