Lighting Question

[Scawtey]

Hello everyone,

I have a 1 year old Sully and was have a Blue Day LightBulb and an Infrared Bulb. Should I switch between the Blue bulb in the day and the Red at night? I've found conflicting information on what you should do as far as lighting goes? Thanks!

 

[wellington]

The tort should have darkness at night. A Che is good for this. Gives heat without light. You also need a bulb for uv. Most like the MVB gives heat and uv. Some also like the 5.0 or 10.0 fluorescent tube bulbs for uv, does not give much heat though. You will have to use at least two heating sources. Do not get the coil type bulbs, they cause eye problems.

 

[Scawtey]

I will be getting my UBV full spectrum fluroescent light today. I will combine that will the Infrared Heat Lamp at night, as it says it's dark enough to not interrupt sleeping patterns. Does that sound alright?

 

[wellington]

Most do not recommend any light at night, it's not natural. However, it won't hurt him if that's what you want to use.

 

[Scawtey]

Okay! So I should also turn the UVB light off at night? I'm confused on how I will keep it at the correct temperatures with the lighting fixtures off! Thanks!

 

[StudentoftheReptile]

Okay! So I should also turn the UVB light off at night? I'm confused on how I will keep it at the correct temperatures with the lighting fixtures off! Thanks!

In nature, it is normal for temperatures to drop during the night. It doesn't stay one constant temperature for an entire 24-hr period.

As long as the nighttime temps don't drop below like, 70-65-ish'F, your tortoise should be fine as long as he has adequate shelter and deep enough substrate to burrow in.
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Or if you're really worried about it, you can ditch any "colored" heat bulbs (infrared, blue, black, etc) and just get a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) that remains on 24/7, and just have your UVB lights on for a 10-12 hr period during the day.

 

[Scawtey]

Okay. Thank you all so much for the help! I will be getting a CHE asap!

 

[JoesMum]

The problem with infra red bulbs is their colour - red.

It's a favourite with torts. They have excellent colour vision and not a huge amount of intelligence. They can see in the red light and it makes everything else look red, so they start eating things they shouldn't like the substrate!

 

[Scawtey]

The problem with infra red bulbs is their colour - red.

It's a favourite with torts. They have excellent colour vision and not a huge amount of intelligence. They can see in the red light and it makes everything else look red, so they start eating things they shouldn't like the substrate!

Thank you. Of course I listened to the idiot at the pet store who informed me that would be the best light because they could sleep and it wouldn't affect that. I will be using my Day Blue Light throughout the day with the UVB Full spectrum on, and switch to a CHE at night. Thank you all for helping me clarify what lighting is best to use.

 

[JoesMum]

If the correct diet for torts, including Sulcatas was red stuff rather than leafy greens, we'd have it SO easy!

They love red foods. Unfortunately, strawberries, tomatoes, bell pepper, etc have a very high sugar content and torts like Sulcatas, Russians, Greeks, etc cannot process the sugars properly. If they eat those sorts of food it can make them very sick. That's why we say a small amount of fruit infrequently, preferably never!

 

[jacquiroell]

Is the red cabbage in the spring mix ok for them?

 

[Scawtey]

I noticed that yesterday. It was his first day with me, and he was exploring my garden. Before any time had passed had all I found him under the strawberry leaves taking bites out my strawberries. I figured this wasn't very healthy for him because of the sugar content. I will have to watch him more carefully while he grazes from now on..

 

[Tom]

In nature, it is normal for temperatures to drop during the night. It doesn't stay one constant temperature for an entire 24-hr period.

As long as the nighttime temps don't drop below like, 70-65-ish'F, your tortoise should be fine as long as he has adequate shelter and deep enough substrate to burrow in.

Michael, I have to strongly disagree with this, and mainly because it could harm the tortoise. No offense to you, but I'm saying it publicly so everyone can see it, including those who are new to tortoises and reptiles. And remember this is in the sulcata section. It would certainly be different for some other species.

In the wild sulcatas are in burrows. They rarely even come above ground according to the people who live there in Africa and study them. Temperature in those underground burrows is very stable and there is not more than a few degrees difference day or night. My 3' deep burrows stay within one degree of 80 all summer long with no artificial heat or temp control of any kind. Above ground during that time temps range anywhere from 50-120F, but those burrows just stay 79-81 for about 4-5 months out of every year.

I think "70-65ish" is much too cool for a small sulcata, especially if any humidity is being used. Sure, older/bigger ones can tolerate that. And adults can tolerate a lot lower than that, but I don't think it is "good" for them.

So Scawtey, I don't recommend any "colored" bulbs either day or night. Here is my general two part strategy: 1. Put either a Mercury Vapor Bulb or a regular incandescent flood bulb from the hardware store (you don't need a special high dollar UV bulb if your tortoise is getting regular sunshine) on a 12 hour timer over one side of the enclosure. Adjust the height of your bulb to get the temperature that you want for basking. I like it around 100 for sulcatas. 2. Put a Ceramic Heating Element in another fixture, sort of over the middle of the enclosure, on a thermostat set to 80. This will maintain the ambient temp that you want 24/7 and then your daylight bulb will kick on and allow them to bask and warm up during the day.

I like this set up for at least the first year or two. I keep it nice and humid too, which helps them to grow smooth and healthy. Once they are around 6-12 months, mine are spending most of each day outside in big enclosures, but its nice to have a good set up inside for night time and colder days.

 

[Scawtey]

Thank you very much. I'm on my way as we speak to the pet store. I'll be getting a CHE and my UVB lamp/light fixture should be here today in the mail. Thanks again!

 

[StudentoftheReptile]

No offense taken, Tom. I apparently was channeling what adult/larger tortoises could tolerate, and not necessarily what was best for hatchling/younger sulcatas.

 

[Scawtey]

Thank you both very much. Right now I am switching from 12 hours during the day with a Blue Day Lightbulb and the UBV 25 Full Spectrum Light. At night I have been turning them all off and am currently using an infrared bulb to keep the heat, until my CHE arrives (sometimes this week) in which he will switch to all darkness at night. I'm trying to take Otto out as much as possible to bask and graze in my yard but this is hard with my work schedule, and leaving him unattended even in the pin I set up is nerve racking because the amount of stray cats and things in my neighborhood. Thanks again for all the help from all of you though!

 

[Tom]

Scawtey, if you click the links in my signature there are some outdoor enclosure ideas in the "Helpful Threads" thread. Outside time is really good for them, and once you have the right enclosure, you will have some much needed peace of mind too.

 

[reticguy76]

For my dt, until I get him/her permanently outside, he/she lives in a homemade cage thing. I have a 100 watt heat lamp and 10.0 uvb in a cut-out I meade in the on the top of the cage. They are on for 14 hours during the summer months (10 hours off, no other source, as i keep my house at a constant 79 degrees) and they are on for 11 hours in the winter (off 13 hours). He/she walks around the entire cage for about 5 hours, spends the rest of the time eating and basking, then when the lights/heat go off, he/she goes into his/her hide for the night. Exact same set up I had for my sulcata and leopard I had for years. Too cold can be bad, too hot can be bad. As long as they are active, eating, going to the bathroom regularly, they are in a good set-up. Just remember, each tortoise is differnt, and may need the micro-environment tweaked here and there.
Example, I have and breed retics. I have one that gets mean and moody and is not her normal self, if its above 90 degrees in her cage. But then I have one that will not eat and is very inactive, unless its 95-100 degrees in her cage. Sometimes animals dont read the caresheets and book and you need to figure out where their particular needs are at.

 

[Scawtey]

Thank you Tom, I'm going to begin building one soon. I want to wait for Otto to get a little bigger before putting him outside all the time as well. He's only about 3.5 inches right now. I have a nice gated off spot in my backyard that I'm going to be turning into his 'area'.