More Active Outside

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lilspeedy626

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Hey guys, I have 2 baby russian tortoises I have them enclosed inside my house on a custom tortoise table. 72L,21W,24H. The temperature inside are 84F Hot side and about 75 on cooler side. They have basking ramp food/water dish. I had them on sand subtsrate,im switching over to reptile carpet. I also have a 13w repi glow 10.0. Now heres the problem, when there in the cage there not that active
and sleep alot.However,when I take them outside they wonder around and eat a lot. I’m thinking maybe i need a bigger UVB bulb like the 26w because its auch a large cage and it needs more light so it wont be as dark. Im also thinking of adding a repti glow 2.0 to increase activity. Why are my tortoise not so active when theyre inside the cage?
 

tortoisenerd

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Welcome to the group! Congrats on the little ones. Why reptile carpet? I suggest a substrate which simulates their natural environment so they can dig and burrow. What about coconut coir, organic soil, aspen, etc? The Mercury Vapor Bulbs are the best you can buy. I suggest a 100 Watt Mega Ray or T-Rex. They have a high UVB output, light, and heat all in one. For such a large enclosure, you may need additional light or heat depending on your room temperature and ambient lighting. What is your current temperature gradient? If 84 is the hottest temperature, that is too cool. You need a basking spot of 95-100 degrees. Your moderate to cool temperatures sound good. What do you feed them? Have they been checked for parasites (fecal test at a vet)?

Lack of activity can be because of not enough heat (this is a big one), not enough excitement in the enclosure (things to explore), a health problem, not enough light, etc. I think with proper UVB, heat, and light, that could help. I would also check that there are no underlying care problems (diet, dehydration, etc), or health issues. Also, when you place them outside, they can seemingly become very active because they are scared and looking for a place to hide. When outside, are they in a pen with hides? I would suggest limiting them to an area about the same size as their indoor enclosure, and have hides available, plus water if it is more than a couple hours. The stimulation of the outdoors can increase activity. It goes to show that tortoises thrive outside. Once they are older do you plan to have them outside full time?

That said, hatchlings are rather inactive. They spend a lot of time napping. As long as they are eating, pooping, drinking water, active a little every day, and have been found to be healthy, there shouldn't be reason to worry. Pictures of the torts and enclosures are very helpful.

Best wishes.
 

K9KidsLove

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Hi...Please turn off the ReptiGlo 10. They have a history of causing eye problems as well as health problems, including lethargy.

As Kate said, the MVB is best. Also good is the ReptiSun 10 long fluorescent bulb. You usually can't get them in pet stores. I order mine for about $20 from www.PetMountain.com. Since your enclosure is so long (good) you might want to either get a 48" bulb or 2 24". You can get fixtures cheaper at Walmart.

Your temp isn't warm enough. Again, you will need to put more than one heat bulb. Household bulbs are just as good, and cheaper, for heat. You need to get a temp gun or a digital thermometer with a probe ($12 at Walmart) to check temps.

I also agree that he needs substrate to dig into. I use cypress mulch mixed with play sand, both from Home Depot. They need a damp hide.

Take a fresh poop sample in a baggie to your reptile vet for a fecal to check for parasites, coccidia,protozoa, bacteria, etc.

Let us know how he is doing
good luck
Patsy
 

lilspeedy626

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Here are some images, I have a 125W emitter bulb but I think im gonna upgrade to a bigger size. Its really hard to get up 90f, because of the cage size. The UTH its under the rocks and its on 24/7.

DSC00179.jpg

DSC00175.jpg

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I forgot to mention, The UV lights and the heat bulb are on a timer from, 800AM-630 PM. Since I live in the garage temps get kinda low around 65f, but thats okay for night temperature right.
 

lilspeedy626

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lilspeedy626 said:
Here are some images, I have a 125W emitter bulb but I think im gonna upgrade to a bigger size. Its really hard to get up 90f, because of the cage size. The UTH its under the rocks and its on 24/7.

DSC00179.jpg

DSC00175.jpg

DSC00181.jpg

DSC00182.jpg

DSC00176.jpg

DSC00173.jpg


I forgot to mention, The UV lights and the heat bulb are on a timer from, 800AM-630 PM. Since I live in the garage temps get kinda low around 65f, but thats okay for night temperature right. They love the new subtrate and burrow into it. They seem more active with the temperature higher.

 

tortoisenerd

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Hi again! What are you feeding them? Is that a cord going through there? Can you get the enclosure up off the ground? Many times it is cooler and more drafty on the floor as heat rises. Do you have hides for each in both the warmer and cooler areas? Fake plants, cardboard boxes, etc, make great cheap hides. The plants also break up the line of sight to make the enclosure seem bigger to them. To bump up the temperatures if needed, raise the enclosure up off the floor, and cover part of it without blocking bulbs or creating a fire hazard. Also, you can get map stands to put bulbs closer to the substrate. You want to use adjustable light/heat to change the distance of them above the substrate as the seasons and room temperature changes. Why are you using an under tank heater? I really don't like these for hatchlings, as I don't like tanks, but the tanks are more workable. I vote to ditch any heat from below and only have it form above as they would get in the wild, no matter the mild temperature of the under tank heater. Agree to change out your UVB bulb. Using something with a hood fixture with the bulb face parallel to the substrate will also be less harsh on their eyes. That is another thing that can increase activity level. Best wishes.
 

lilspeedy626

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No its not a cord, its a fake vine. I feed them romaine lettuce,tomato,carrots,tortoise food,mushrooms,radish.
 

Yvonne G

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It helps to concentrate and direct the heat/light towards the tortoise if you mount the light in a bell-shaped fixture.

Yvonne
 

K9KidsLove

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Hi...You also might want to leave the lights on for 12 - 14 hours daily so they don't think the shorter hours means it is getting to be time to brumate/hibernate.

I also agree with getting the tank off the floor. It gets too cold on the floor in cold weather...even if you have a good furnace.

Russians need to eat weeds. Go to www.localharvest.org to order dandelion seeds for $3 for 100 seeds...no shipping charge. You can plant the seeds in kitty litter boxes so he can eat on them this winter, along with other greens & spring mix. I wouldnl't feed much tomato & not very often cause it is very acidic. Check the list of safe plants. Your garden center should carry some of them.
Good luck
Patsy
 

Meg90

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Also, if anyone hasn't already mentioned this, ditch the coiled bulbs.

They have been known to cause eye issues in torts, and a member here even had one baby that was blinded by them.

IMO babies are much harder to raise than adults if you are unfamiliar to tortoises. There are alot of reasons for inactivity--the baby could not be warm enough, not feel secure, could be coming down with an illness, and we recently found out here that even underfeeding can cause inactivity in hatchlings.

90F is cold. If your body was at 90F think of how you would feel. Think of how you feel when you have a fever---a couple of measly degrees can make a WORLD of difference in between feeling healthy, and feeling sick.

You owe it to that baby to have proper temps, its a basic necessity that unchecked, can kill.

Also, it seems like they are on cyprus mulch right now. I hope you chose that instead of the carpet. Repticarpet is a horrible substrate for just about everything, especially tortoises.
 
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