Tom's Brumation Thread
- Thread starter Tom
- Start date
Naiyan
New Member
Thank you so much for replying Tom 
, but if I wouldn't put her in the enclosure ( in the plastic shoe box ) where would I she go? Would she have to go in a fridge or can I put her somewhere else with the same temperatures for her brumation?
, but if I wouldn't put her in the enclosure ( in the plastic shoe box ) where would I she go? Would she have to go in a fridge or can I put her somewhere else with the same temperatures for her brumation?
After all the proper fasting, cooling and soaking, the tortoise needs to be contained in a plastic shoe box, or something similar, and then placed in an area with constant cold temperatures appropriate for your species. The tortoises enclosure is not going to be cold enough or consistent enough.Thank you so much for replying Tom
MichelangeloIsAPartyDude
New Member
I just saw the post about the tortoise from Scotland by StuartMonifieth from Dundee on the previous page who plans to begin fasting in November, I am in Southern England and it is always warmer here but I have already begun fasting and bathing our tortoise since last Thursday, he has slowed down a lot and really does not want to get out of bed anymore. Have I started the process too early?
I was planning to continue to fast and bath him until mid november, so I guess another 3-4 weeks and then put him to bed in a porch which is very stable in how cold it gets but does not freeze, he did well in there last year.
I was planning to continue to fast and bath him until mid november, so I guess another 3-4 weeks and then put him to bed in a porch which is very stable in how cold it gets but does not freeze, he did well in there last year.
vervain
New Member
Greetings! Question for the thread regarding my 18 y-o male Russian tort Moforshort Charanpal. This will be his first brumation since I adopted him and, if you'll forgive the short novella, I have some q's now that the 4th week of his pre-brumation fast is almost ended:
The last 2 weeks I have been soaking Mo in water 97-85 degrees (F) for 15-25 mins every day. He always drinks a little (adorable). The last two days of his soak were the first days I saw no urates or waste. In today's soak he passed only a white urate. Does this verify that his gut is empty?
Some context re: last 2 weeks of fasting, daily soaks, and reducing light time / nighttime temps:
Mo's basking lamp is on for about 6-7 hours where he gets to normal temps, once it's off ambient room temp gets to about 54-59 degrees F by the next morning before the lamp goes on (at about 7-8am).
During the day, Mo wakes up and warms up under the lamp (usually napping while basking), then multiple breaks to nap elsewhere, eventually digging down in his substrate (coco coir, organic topsoil, cedar mulch) around 2-3pm in the afternoon like clockwork. Way different from his multiple marches around the enclosure this past summer.
His brumation box is ready- opaque plastic box w airholes in lid and enough room to adjust himself. Coco coir and orchid bark for substrate and oak leaves for on top.
Current plan:
At the end of the 4th week, wait until he goes to bed and the temp in his enclosure is down to 50-53 F. Then, get him tucked into the box and moved to the uninsulated room, where it stays 41-45 degrees night/day. After a day there, on to the fridge (38-39 degrees F)
Is this transition timeframe adequate? Please advise when able.
I've learned so much from studying this forum and can't wait to learn more (-: Thank you!!
The last 2 weeks I have been soaking Mo in water 97-85 degrees (F) for 15-25 mins every day. He always drinks a little (adorable). The last two days of his soak were the first days I saw no urates or waste. In today's soak he passed only a white urate. Does this verify that his gut is empty?
Some context re: last 2 weeks of fasting, daily soaks, and reducing light time / nighttime temps:
Mo's basking lamp is on for about 6-7 hours where he gets to normal temps, once it's off ambient room temp gets to about 54-59 degrees F by the next morning before the lamp goes on (at about 7-8am).
During the day, Mo wakes up and warms up under the lamp (usually napping while basking), then multiple breaks to nap elsewhere, eventually digging down in his substrate (coco coir, organic topsoil, cedar mulch) around 2-3pm in the afternoon like clockwork. Way different from his multiple marches around the enclosure this past summer.
His brumation box is ready- opaque plastic box w airholes in lid and enough room to adjust himself. Coco coir and orchid bark for substrate and oak leaves for on top.
Current plan:
At the end of the 4th week, wait until he goes to bed and the temp in his enclosure is down to 50-53 F. Then, get him tucked into the box and moved to the uninsulated room, where it stays 41-45 degrees night/day. After a day there, on to the fridge (38-39 degrees F)
Is this transition timeframe adequate? Please advise when able.
I've learned so much from studying this forum and can't wait to learn more (-: Thank you!!
vervain
New Member
What species are we talking about, and what temperature does the porch stay at?
There is a wide margin of error here for most of this, but I will share my thoughts.
-Temps and light duration should stay normal for the first two weeks of fasting. Then, cut down to lower temps and light duration.
-Soaks should be 30-40 minutes.
-Not seeing poop or urates does not necessarily mean the gut is empty. It just means he didn't pass any that day.
-You shouldn't be seeing urates that often. It means there is too much protein in the diet, or not enough hydration.
-Store bought soil should never be used as substrate.
-Cedar is toxic and should not be used.
-Your "current plan" time frame sounds great.
vervain
New Member
Thank you for your review Tom I will adjust accordingly
pingu_slayer
New Member
Do Galops, Aldabras, or radiatas brumate? Would like to know for future reference. Thanks
Sdapsam
New Member
No, Galapagos, Aldabras, and Radiated tortoises do not brumate. These are tropical species and so must be kept warm all year round.
pingu_slayer
New Member
Great thanks 
series
New Member
I live in SoCal, where temperature is 45-70 degrees. Our Russian tortoises live outdoors. I am worried that the nighttime temperature is too low, so I try to bring them in nightly before the temperature drop below 50 and put them in cardboard boxes for the night. Would the stress of moving the tortoises be worse than the temperature swing?
You need a temperature controlled outdoor shelter, and it would be best to brumate them this time of year when it's 85 for two weeks in January and then dropping to 30 at night in February sometimes. Cardboard boxes overnight are not a good idea.
Read this thread for more info. In the outdoor housing section, I explain and show pics of how to do the night box set up:
The Best Way To Raise Any Temperate Species Of Tortoise
I chose the title of this care sheet very carefully. Are there other ways to raise babies and care for adults? Yes. Yes there are, but those ways are not as good. What follows is the BEST way, according to 30 years of research and experimentation with hundreds of babies of many species. What is...
tortoiseforum.org
Questions are welcome.
I like your idea of using water bottles in the fridge to keep temperatures stable. I have fridge brumated a Russian tortoise and a box turtle for the last 2 winters. The temperatures swung from ~40 to ~44 degrees. I have read that Russians optimum brumation temp is ~38-39. I believe box turtle ideal temps are a little warmer (low 40s)....does anyone know for sure?
Similar threads
- Locked
