lilly_sand99
Active Member
And what answers should I be looking for?
Wanting to Buy/Adopt a Russian
- Thread starter lilly_sand99
- Start date
Minority2
Well-Known Member
It's debatable. Hatchlings will require more work but its often at a clean slate. Reputable dealers are going to deliver a healthy specimen. The cost will be at a more premium price than the adult but I believe it is well worth it. Hatchlings are adorable.
While the costs are lower, you'll encounter far more chances of finding unhealthy tortoises bought from big box pet stores; from owners with little to no knowledge for tortoise care. Most of the items bundled together such as enclosures, equipment, and food may not be even remotely useful for the specific breed they bought it for. This means possible health issues, shell damage, and more money to spend in the foreseeable future. First time owners may be too overwhelmed from getting a rescue over buying from a trusted source.
Example questions to Craigslist owners:
- Where did you buy it from? Proof?
- Health checkups? Proof?
- Visually inspect tortoise for pyramiding, shell damage, and anything out of the ordinary. Various threads on the forums can help guide you further on this.
- Ask owners about their typical diet to gauge their experience level and well being of tortoise. Ask for proof if need be.
- Inspect and test bundled equipment to see if anything is worth taking. Don't blindly haul off someone's trash while paying a premium over said trash.
Haggle over price and or simply walk away if you don't feel the deal is right for you. Remember that tortoises live a very long time. It's an expensive pet. People will rarely ever get back a fraction of the money they spent on them.
lilly_sand99
Active Member
So far we have a 8x4 enclosure with a water dish(larger one), food dish(smaller one with cuttle bone), one hide (going to look for more), 2 potted plants, and 2 thermometers, and one hydrometer!! I am going to try out peat moss and Cyprus mulch for the substrate! Still need the uvb and heat lights!!
You’re talking about a daytime heat light, right? Not something for night?
Oh, P.S. looking good!
lilly_sand99
Active Member
Yes, I need a daytime heat, and uvb. I do understand they need to cool down at night to about 60, or so
Minority2
Well-Known Member
Russians do not require night time heating. Rig your light fixtures to stay on for 12 hour daily cycles. A single long/two shorter uvb light fixtures and a basking light (simple incandescent light bulb that gives out heat) should be enough to provide the necessary 100/70 zones in a fair weathered environment. Humidity should stay under 60%.
A closed chamber would allow you to use lesser wattage setups.
A closed chamber would allow you to use lesser wattage setups.
lilly_sand99
Active Member
This is Abbigale Louise, we will call her Abby for short
But I am a little nervous, she hasn't eaten since I got her yesterday and she has burrowed herself almost all day, should I be concerned?
But I am a little nervous, she hasn't eaten since I got her yesterday and she has burrowed herself almost all day, should I be concerned?
This is Abbigale Louise, we will call her Abby for short
But I am a little nervous, she hasn't eaten since I got her yesterday and she has burrowed herself almost all day, should I be concerned? View attachment 247282
Any update on the feeding? A nice warm bath might liven the little guy up!
lilly_sand99
Active Member
Sigh... It's been a week and idk If she has eaten a single bite. And I been giving her a bath everyday so I know she won't get dehydrated... But today I am placing her food into a hide, so maybe she will eat if she feels like she I more hidden (I originally had her food out in the open)
Try different foods! My little guy can't resist Aloe Vera (just for a treat), Dandelions (leaves and flower), and Mazuri Tortoise diet.
A little outdoor sunlight couldn't hurt either. Probably no more than an hour for the little guy.
lilly_sand99
Active Member
Today I tried a bit spring mix and petunias! Plus she always has access to some Timothy hay!
Last time I took her see hissed and hid under her towel. I think I will try again next week!!
lilly_sand99
Active Member
So I am going to the vet for a check up on Tuesday! I think she's healthy (besides her stubbornness of not eating). What questions should I ask the vet?
Tortoises don’t eat hay, they aren’t grass eaters. I’d remove it.
I’m assuming you’ve found a good reptile vet? If so, he or she will offer some information up without your asking as to how she looks overall (bright eyes, not sunken; mouth looks right; weight feels right for the size). Mine had her walk around on the table, check out how she moved. They’ll want to do a fecal check for parasites so take a stool sample that’s less than 24-hours old; not sure if you can do that if she’s not eating. Is she still burrowing in the substrate? If so, I’d mention that. I’d ask that question here in the forum as well, especially since your vet can’t see the enclosure. They might guess at the age but as you know, it’s not terribly easy to determine that.
If they find a high parasite count, and they probably will because she’s wild caught, they will likely offer deworming medicine. Some members here don’t believe in deworming unless it’s obviously impacting the health of the tortoise and at this point I agree with them. It requires medicating them for days, with a repeat two weeks later. It was distressing to our tortoise and made her shy of us, to the point we stopped the treatment. But that’s totally up to you and your vet.
Our vet took an X-ray and showed us she had eaten a small stone at one point but that it wasn’t in a place that might be harmful. I’m not sure every vet does that for a new tortoise but you can ask for one, make sure there isn’t anything that’s keeping her from eating.
I’d just say I was a new owner and nervous although I bet your vet will figure that out by his or herself. Obviously you’ll mention the not eating and the shyness.
If your vet offers injections of any kind, there is a good chance they aren’t a good reptile vet; don’t take them without asking exactly what they are for and what evidence they have found that supports the injection. And them come back here and ask about it before you agree to anything.
I personally think Abby is just still adjusting to her new surroundings. You don’t really know how she was treated at her last home; she might have good reason to be cautious. Or perhaps she’s just one of those tortoises who is slow to come out of her shell; there is a reason that phrase exist!
That said, I’m a totally nervous owner and took my perfectly fine tortoise in for a check as soon as I got an appointment. ) My vet was patient and let me run on with everything I was saying about her that came to mind. After responding to each and every point of concern, he said she was in good shape; the only thing she mentioned was that she had some room to grow. And she has certainly done that while living with us!
I’m still a nervous owner, don’t be surprised if you still suspect your tortoise is impacted by one of the many problems you read about here. Sometimes reading the forum can make you think everything in the world is wrong with your tortoise, there is so much information to process.
Finally, is there a chance you have a hispanic market nearby and can get some cactus? Most tortoises can’t resist it. I’d also try summer squash (zucchini); cucumber; red roses or hibiscus. Put them in the enclosure and walk away; a shy tortoise may not want to eat in front of you.
I hope the two of you are feeling calmer in a few days.
I’m assuming you’ve found a good reptile vet? If so, he or she will offer some information up without your asking as to how she looks overall (bright eyes, not sunken; mouth looks right; weight feels right for the size). Mine had her walk around on the table, check out how she moved. They’ll want to do a fecal check for parasites so take a stool sample that’s less than 24-hours old; not sure if you can do that if she’s not eating. Is she still burrowing in the substrate? If so, I’d mention that. I’d ask that question here in the forum as well, especially since your vet can’t see the enclosure. They might guess at the age but as you know, it’s not terribly easy to determine that.
If they find a high parasite count, and they probably will because she’s wild caught, they will likely offer deworming medicine. Some members here don’t believe in deworming unless it’s obviously impacting the health of the tortoise and at this point I agree with them. It requires medicating them for days, with a repeat two weeks later. It was distressing to our tortoise and made her shy of us, to the point we stopped the treatment. But that’s totally up to you and your vet.
Our vet took an X-ray and showed us she had eaten a small stone at one point but that it wasn’t in a place that might be harmful. I’m not sure every vet does that for a new tortoise but you can ask for one, make sure there isn’t anything that’s keeping her from eating.
I’d just say I was a new owner and nervous although I bet your vet will figure that out by his or herself.
Obviously you’ll mention the not eating and the shyness.If your vet offers injections of any kind, there is a good chance they aren’t a good reptile vet; don’t take them without asking exactly what they are for and what evidence they have found that supports the injection. And them come back here and ask about it before you agree to anything.
I personally think Abby is just still adjusting to her new surroundings. You don’t really know how she was treated at her last home; she might have good reason to be cautious. Or perhaps she’s just one of those tortoises who is slow to come out of her shell; there is a reason that phrase exist!
That said, I’m a totally nervous owner and took my perfectly fine tortoise in for a check as soon as I got an appointment. ) My vet was patient and let me run on with everything I was saying about her that came to mind. After responding to each and every point of concern, he said she was in good shape; the only thing she mentioned was that she had some room to grow. And she has certainly done that while living with us!
I’m still a nervous owner, don’t be surprised if you still suspect your tortoise is impacted by one of the many problems you read about here. Sometimes reading the forum can make you think everything in the world is wrong with your tortoise, there is so much information to process.
Finally, is there a chance you have a hispanic market nearby and can get some cactus? Most tortoises can’t resist it. I’d also try summer squash (zucchini); cucumber; red roses or hibiscus. Put them in the enclosure and walk away; a shy tortoise may not want to eat in front of you.
I hope the two of you are feeling calmer in a few days.
SweetGreekTorts
Well-Known Member
Is that a red light you're using in the photo? If still using it, I would stop. Russians don't like those and it could keep her from being comfortable in her new habitat. I just use the regular UVA and UVB bulbs for my Russians, keeping one end lighted with basking area at 95 degrees, and the other end is cooler, darker, and has their sleeping house hides.
Congrats on the tortoise!
lilly_sand99
Active Member
I removed the red light within the 2nd day because someone told me it was wrong. Now she has a white heat light and she warm spot is about 100, and it is 70 in the cool side! And 80 on the warm side!
Thank you so much!!
lilly_sand99
Active Member
Thank you for all of your advice!! As for the Hispanic market, our recently got blown away, so I will have to wait a little while before I can get her some cactus!Tortoises don’t eat hay, they aren’t grass eaters. I’d remove it.
I’m assuming you’ve found a good reptile vet? If so, he or she will offer some information up without your asking as to how she looks overall (bright eyes, not sunken; mouth looks right; weight feels right for the size). Mine had her walk around on the table, check out how she moved. They’ll want to do a fecal check for parasites so take a stool sample that’s less than 24-hours old; not sure if you can do that if she’s not eating. Is she still burrowing in the substrate? If so, I’d mention that. I’d ask that question here in the forum as well, especially since your vet can’t see the enclosure. They might guess at the age but as you know, it’s not terribly easy to determine that.
If they find a high parasite count, and they probably will because she’s wild caught, they will likely offer deworming medicine. Some members here don’t believe in deworming unless it’s obviously impacting the health of the tortoise and at this point I agree with them. It requires medicating them for days, with a repeat two weeks later. It was distressing to our tortoise and made her shy of us, to the point we stopped the treatment. But that’s totally up to you and your vet.
Our vet took an X-ray and showed us she had eaten a small stone at one point but that it wasn’t in a place that might be harmful. I’m not sure every vet does that for a new tortoise but you can ask for one, make sure there isn’t anything that’s keeping her from eating.
I’d just say I was a new owner and nervous although I bet your vet will figure that out by his or herself.
If your vet offers injections of any kind, there is a good chance they aren’t a good reptile vet; don’t take them without asking exactly what they are for and what evidence they have found that supports the injection. And them come back here and ask about it before you agree to anything.
I personally think Abby is just still adjusting to her new surroundings. You don’t really know how she was treated at her last home; she might have good reason to be cautious. Or perhaps she’s just one of those tortoises who is slow to come out of her shell; there is a reason that phrase exist!
That said, I’m a totally nervous owner and took my perfectly fine tortoise in for a check as soon as I got an appointment. ) My vet was patient and let me run on with everything I was saying about her that came to mind. After responding to each and every point of concern, he said she was in good shape; the only thing she mentioned was that she had some room to grow. And she has certainly done that while living with us!
I’m still a nervous owner, don’t be surprised if you still suspect your tortoise is impacted by one of the many problems you read about here. Sometimes reading the forum can make you think everything in the world is wrong with your tortoise, there is so much information to process.
Finally, is there a chance you have a hispanic market nearby and can get some cactus? Most tortoises can’t resist it. I’d also try summer squash (zucchini); cucumber; red roses or hibiscus. Put them in the enclosure and walk away; a shy tortoise may not want to eat in front of you.
I hope the two of you are feeling calmer in a few days.
Minority2
Well-Known Member
There are many varieties of succulents that are safe for tortoises. You can find cuttings as well as pads fairly easy. Some large scale flower shops have cuttings for sale. You can find cuttings online in amazon and tortoise breeder/retailer sites. Regular supermarkets will sometimes sell pads. I remember going to a local Safeway and buying their entire small section for under a dollar a pound. Farmer's markets are another good place to buy prickly pears in bulk. You can usually haggle them down if you buy enough. Freeze what you can't use. They last a long time.
lilly_sand99
Active Member
Well at least she is hanging out with her food
Progress!
