Brumation going on too long?

NancKj

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San Fernando Valley, CA
Hi all,
My CDT here in San Fernando Valley continues his brumation in an insulated bix in garage. It is now 5 months since he went down. Last year he was up on March 20. I keep waiting for a warm spell, but it just keeps rolling in rain and cold here. Nighttime lows forecasted for mid to high 30's this weekend. More rain coming next week. Temps in his box are staying between 50 and 58, mostly in the lower range. Is there a limit as to how long they can go? I read Tom's article in which he indicated that even up to 5 months should be okay under proper conditions. CTTC told me they do not like the CDTs to go past March in continued brumation... Any thoughts? Should I take him out and bring him inside til it warms up outside?? Any help greatly appreciated!
Nancy Kj
 

Yvonne G

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They wake up when the air temperature in his hinernaculum is consistently 50°F or above. Mine are still asleep.
 

Tom

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Hi all,
My CDT here in San Fernando Valley continues his brumation in an insulated bix in garage. It is now 5 months since he went down. Last year he was up on March 20. I keep waiting for a warm spell, but it just keeps rolling in rain and cold here. Nighttime lows forecasted for mid to high 30's this weekend. More rain coming next week. Temps in his box are staying between 50 and 58, mostly in the lower range. Is there a limit as to how long they can go? I read Tom's article in which he indicated that even up to 5 months should be okay under proper conditions. CTTC told me they do not like the CDTs to go past March in continued brumation... Any thoughts? Should I take him out and bring him inside til it warms up outside?? Any help greatly appreciated!
Nancy Kj
I don't think any harm will come to him for going longer, and this darn weather just will not warm up. In all my years, I have never seen it this bad for this long.

50-58 is too warm. 45-50 is a good range for CDTs, and it needs to be consistent, even in normal years when we get our typical winter warm spells. I'm in SCV just north of you and my garage stays 55-65 all winter long. I think you need a fridge.

This is why I suggest a heated night box for all temperate species. The weather just doesn't cooperate in spring and fall sometimes, and being able to warm your tortoise is necessary. It is explained and depicted here:
 

NancKj

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73
Location (City and/or State)
San Fernando Valley, CA
I don't think any harm will come to him for going longer, and this darn weather just will not warm up. In all my years, I have never seen it this bad for this long.

50-58 is too warm. 45-50 is a good range for CDTs, and it needs to be consistent, even in normal years when we get our typical winter warm spells. I'm in SCV just north of you and my garage stays 55-65 all winter long. I think you need a fridge.

This is why I suggest a heated night box for all temperate species. The weather just doesn't cooperate in spring and fall sometimes, and being able to warm your tortoise is necessary. It is explained and depicted here:
They wake up when the air temperature in his hinernaculum is consistently 50°F or above. Mine are still asleep.
They wake up when the air temperature in his hinernaculum is consistently 50°F or above. Mine are still asleep.
Do you keep them in
They wake up when the air temperature in his hinernaculum is consistently 50°F or above. Mine are still asleep.
Do you keep them in a refrigerator as well?
 

NancKj

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Messages
73
Location (City and/or State)
San Fernando Valley, CA
I don't think any harm will come to him for going longer, and this darn weather just will not warm up. In all my years, I have never seen it this bad for this long.

50-58 is too warm. 45-50 is a good range for CDTs, and it needs to be consistent, even in normal years when we get our typical winter warm spells. I'm in SCV just north of you and my garage stays 55-65 all winter long. I think you need a fridge.

This is why I suggest a heated night box for all temperate species. The weather just doesn't cooperate in spring and fall sometimes, and being able to warm your tortoise is necessary. It is explained and depicted here:
I am absolutely getting a refrigerator to be ready for next brumation. I also really want 2 night boxes as described in your article. However, I am unhandy with that sort of construction...To put it mildly... Tom, do you think a decent handyman could put it together for me using your instructions/pics? Or, any chance you could build 2 of them for me? I could come to SCV and pick them up and pay cash... Or maybe you know someone??? Thank again
 

Yvonne G

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Do you keep them in

Do you keep them in a refrigerator as well?
No. I have some insulated cinderblock shelters on my car port that I keep them in.
 

Tom

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I am absolutely getting a refrigerator to be ready for next brumation. I also really want 2 night boxes as described in your article. However, I am unhandy with that sort of construction...To put it mildly... Tom, do you think a decent handyman could put it together for me using your instructions/pics? Or, any chance you could build 2 of them for me? I could come to SCV and pick them up and pay cash... Or maybe you know someone??? Thank again
I wish I had time to build lots of boxes for people, but I don't. Any handyman should be able to do it and I will leave some threads here to help explain it more:

You only need one 4x4 box for a single DT. It will allow you to control the night drop, and also provide a basking area on cold cloudy days that are outside of the brumation time.

These boxes are sealed (not airtight though...) and very well insulated. I have been able to maintain the correct brumation temperatures outside in them for DTs and other species that need similar temps. It takes a bit of management, but it can work. During warm winter days, I leave the boxes sealed up tight to keep the heat out. At night I crack the lid open a little to let the cold air in. There have need a few times where the temperature started to climb above 50, and I simply put some ice bottles in the box, not near the tortoise. Cooled it off and kept it cool during one of those 80 degree January warm spells we get. I like this method because it requires no electricity and it can't malfunction like a fridge might. It does take some vigilance and attention, but it can work. The inside of the box stays right around the average between daytime high and night time low, with very little variation. 60 degree days and 30 degree nights yield a box temp of 45. 80 degree days and 40 degree nights will let it get up to 60, which is too warm. During those warm times, I let cold air in at night, and keep it shut up during the day, and I'm able to keep the temp under 50, and stable. I did it this way for several years with a Chersina, and liked the results.

Of course you can always just use a fridge, set it and forget it. I find that full size fridges work best for this purpose. The little mini-fridges don't seem to hold as steady a temperature. Whatever fridge you use, pack it full of cans, bottles and anything else that will fit, as this will help keep the temperature more stable with less fluctuation.
 

NancKj

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Joined
Aug 5, 2022
Messages
73
Location (City and/or State)
San Fernando Valley, CA
I wish I had time to build lots of boxes for people, but I don't. Any handyman should be able to do it and I will leave some threads here to help explain it more:

You only need one 4x4 box for a single DT. It will allow you to control the night drop, and also provide a basking area on cold cloudy days that are outside of the brumation time.

These boxes are sealed (not airtight though...) and very well insulated. I have been able to maintain the correct brumation temperatures outside in them for DTs and other species that need similar temps. It takes a bit of management, but it can work. During warm winter days, I leave the boxes sealed up tight to keep the heat out. At night I crack the lid open a little to let the cold air in. There have need a few times where the temperature started to climb above 50, and I simply put some ice bottles in the box, not near the tortoise. Cooled it off and kept it cool during one of those 80 degree January warm spells we get. I like this method because it requires no electricity and it can't malfunction like a fridge might. It does take some vigilance and attention, but it can work. The inside of the box stays right around the average between daytime high and night time low, with very little variation. 60 degree days and 30 degree nights yield a box temp of 45. 80 degree days and 40 degree nights will let it get up to 60, which is too warm. During those warm times, I let cold air in at night, and keep it shut up during the day, and I'm able to keep the temp under 50, and stable. I did it this way for several years with a Chersina, and liked the results.

Of course you can always just use a fridge, set it and forget it. I find that full size fridges work best for this purpose. The little mini-fridges don't seem to hold as steady a temperature. Whatever fridge you use, pack it full of cans, bottles and anything else that will fit, as this will help keep the temperature more stable with less fluctuation.
Thank you for all this info in one place! I do have a handyman and will reach out to him with this info. I am adopting another CDT, so I would need the 2 boxes. I plan to get a full size fridge and will look around for maybe a used one that can be delivered here.
I do similar manuvering in my garage during brumation now! Garage door open, garage door closed. Portable heater to warnm it up when too cold. Insulation off, insulation on. I have a temp probe inside the brumation box with the tort. But, as you have pointed out, my temps are mainly just too warm for proper brumation.
Today was a beautiful clear spring day in Woodland Hills....but thise darn nighttime lows
 

NancKj

Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2022
Messages
73
Location (City and/or State)
San Fernando Valley, CA
No. I have some insulated cinderblock shelters on my car port that I keep them in.
That is interesting. My ouside hides are cinderblock with dirt filling in spaces in blocks, insulation panels strapped to sides, wood covers with more insulation, then a layer of dirt, then a frame on top covered with shade material. It gets very hot here in summer, and these hides stay in the 70s when it is 100+ outside. Have you posted any pics of your shelters?
 

Tom

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Thank you for all this info in one place! I do have a handyman and will reach out to him with this info. I am adopting another CDT, so I would need the 2 boxes. I plan to get a full size fridge and will look around for maybe a used one that can be delivered here.
I do similar manuvering in my garage during brumation now! Garage door open, garage door closed. Portable heater to warnm it up when too cold. Insulation off, insulation on. I have a temp probe inside the brumation box with the tort. But, as you have pointed out, my temps are mainly just too warm for proper brumation.
Today was a beautiful clear spring day in Woodland Hills....but thise darn nighttime lows
Its clear that you understand the concept. That's fantastic. Post pics of your box when it is done, and feel free to ask as many questions as you want.

It was a nice day up in SCV too. A bunch of my indoor torts finally got some outside time.

Your "burrow" sounds great for the summer heat.
 

NancKj

Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2022
Messages
73
Location (City and/or State)
San Fernando Valley, CA
Its clear that you understand the concept. That's fantastic. Post pics of your box when it is done, and feel free to ask as many questions as you want.

It was a nice day up in SCV too. A bunch of my indoor torts finally got some outside time.

Your "burrow" sounds great for the summer heat.
I will!! Thanks Tom!
 
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