So rather than giving the "50/50" tortoises the best chance at life you would pass and let the breeder, not already here on this forum that may not discover the right way, possibly watch it die. This is the hypocrisy from this forum... "We're focused on the wellbeing of the animal ... so don't help it. Let it die" Just stop lying to yourself. You are here to feel important, tell people what they're doing wrong and let animals die.Well it's still a breeder that is not starting them correctly. I would pass. If it was pyramiding that was just barely started, I'd say try it and get it set up correctly ASAP. It's a risk buying them that have been started dry. So many do good for a short time and then it all falls apart and they don't make it. 50/50 chance here with both of these.
I understand what you are expressing and agree on all fronts. I am one of those that had I known, in hindsight, would/should have adopted a few huge adult sulcatas except that my wife probably would have taken a move like that as the last straw and moved to a condo at the beach without me. In the future I can see adopting a couple more adult sulcatas.So, i'm not going to address any of the heat going on here, but I'll address the point about taking in the healthy vs the "less than" ones. @ryan57 you and I are 100% the same - I absolutely would take the runt, the tripod, the fused scute, the MBD grenaded ones - BUT that is a particular "mindset" that some of us have, and some people absolutely DO NOT WANT. Growing up my mom bought a purebred Springer Spaniel puppy for us (she was a great dog to grow up with) because she was convinced rescue dogs "all have problems." While that mindset is alien to me (like intentionally breeding mixed breed dogs or cats, or spending tons of money on a dog (except in very particular circumstances where specialized skills are needed) when rescues and shelters are full), this site is giving advice to people who very well may not want to start with a 'gimp' and who is more likely to lead to heartbreak. Its not unreasonable if someone is asking for advice on "is this healthy?" for people to say "no, which means its a bad breeder, don't buy from them." Will that tortoise die? Yep, so will all the others they are breeding because the breeder doesn't know or care. The number of times I've had people tell me they "rescued" a $5000 dog from a pet store and I want to punch them in a nose because its only by walking away from that puppy that eventually the market and the dozens that go through horrors funded by every single puppy mill dog sold, stops.
I strongly encourage newbies here to not get babies if they even remotely seem open to it - get an adult because SO MANY TORTOISES NEED HOMES and stop buying %$#! babies off craigslist for cheap, and you don't have to worry as much about if they were "started well" and if you have a closed chamber and your humidity levels, etc. Just get a %$$@#% adult that needs a home. BUT BUT BUT people who are asking for advice who may not have the same mindset you or I do about the imperfect ones, its fair for them to get objective advice from experienced owners and breeders.
Did you even read the OP first post? So get off your high horse and if you want to lie to someone asking if a tortoise is healthy or not then go ahead. I answered the OP question. Started dry could mean it's not a healthy tortoise! Rather have the OP spend their money on one started correctly and hopefully have a good time raising it then one that could be unhealthy and then having to go thru the pain of trying to save it and then having it die!So rather than giving the "50/50" tortoises the best chance at life you would pass and let the breeder, not already here on this forum that may not discover the right way, possibly watch it die. This is the hypocrisy from this forum... "We're focused on the wellbeing of the animal ... so don't help it. Let it die" You people are f^#%ed up. Just stop lying to yourself. You are here to feel important, tell people what they're doing wrong and let animals die.
So because Figgy's scutes were fused and took much longer to grow I should have passed? S/he added 33 grams last week. F u, your mind, thoughts, speech and life.
Ok thanks and i read about the yellow bunps i believe its something called AW right thats how its refered to on this forumDon't keep your little tortoise on sand, please. And before you pay for him, check him over very carefully for any yellow bumps he may have on his face, neck and legs. If he has anything like that, don't buy him, because it could be a very serious disease that particularly affects these baby Sulcatas. Good luck!
Btw this ones also available the breeder of the smaller one sent me this pic and he believes this one is better what do you guys think? 🤔 Should i get him instead both of them are like 80 us dollars so same price
Btw this ones also available the breeder of the smaller one sent me this pic and he believes this one is better what do you guys think? 🤔 Should i get him instead both of them are like 80 us dollars so same price
Another thing i don't get is why are some sulcatas darker while some are lighter
Those kinds of scutes, split scute, extra scute etc is fine and just cosmetic.View attachment 367093
It does have an weird scute if you look closely on its top back scute abit triangular its visible in the pic is it ok or should i avoid it
Plus it makes them unique i personally like such animals too especially when its only cosmeticI personally like extra or irregular scutes. At least you can easily identify it.
ThanksWhichever one you get, just have the enclosure set up and running first, so you know it's correct temps, humidity, and correct bulbs and heat
This will stop the pyramiding and when it's much larger, you won't even notice what has already pyramided.
I would get either one of the two smaller ones. They will be easier to stop the pyramiding and get started on growing smooth.
Used to be said that ones with split or extra scutes etc, were more likely to be a female. Not completely true but I do think it does give it a better chance being female if that helps you decide.
Thank you, Barb!Did you even read the OP first post? So get off your high horse and if you want to lie to someone asking if a tortoise is healthy or not then go ahead. I answered the OP question. Started dry could mean it's not a healthy tortoise! Rather have the OP spend their money on one started correctly and hopefully have a good time raising it then one that could be unhealthy and then having to go thru the pain of trying to save it and then having it die!
As for your language, this is your first warning!
no he has the adult sulcatas which are the actual mom and dad but he has no hand in there breeding the female lays the egg the eggs hatch and babies come up from the sand and he just takes them home and puts them in a plastic container with a uv and heat bulb and soaks them twice a week and sells them.So, correct me if I'm wrong, These are NOT from "Breeders" They are from someone who snatched them from the wild and is trying to make $ off of a wild caught sulcata.
I live in Pakistan so if we dont have wild sulcatas as very rarely are animals are imported here due to taxes and stuff and those are very expensive meanwhile captive bred sulcatas are cheaperSo, correct me if I'm wrong, These are NOT from "Breeders" They are from someone who snatched them from the wild and is trying to make $ off of a wild caught sulcata.
"Another thing i don't get is why are some sulcatas darker while some are lighter"I live in Pakistan so if we dont have wild sulcatas as very rarely are animals are imported here due to taxes and stuff and those are very expensive meanwhile captive bred sulcatas are cheaper