Crease down the center of carapace

[Shutterbuginaz]

Hatch has a raised crease down the center of his carapace. He is 3 months old. Is this due to his age? Also, when are they no longer hatchlings and more of a juvenile? Below is a photo of the crease.

 

[Tom]

Totally normal.

I call them hatchlings until the egg tooth fades away. Then I call them babies until they hit one year. Then I call them yearlings for a year. After that I call them juveniles until they hit breeding size, at which point I call them a young adult. When they are full size and actively reproducing I call them a mature adult. This is just my way of doing it. Not set in stone or anything.

 

[Shutterbuginaz]

Tom - I have read that a lot percentage of hatchlings don't survive. Does that mean that once his egg tooth is gone that his chances are better? I am not asking for you to gaze into a crystal ball, but just wondering when he is past the age of a high mortality rate. I realized that tortoise and turtles had a high mortality rate in the wild, but somehow thought that it would not be a factor with captive bred. I am just looking forward to a time when I can breath a little easier.

 

[Shutterbuginaz]

Good to know his carapace is normal and not some form a pyramiding.

 

[Tom]

Tom - I have read that a lot percentage of hatchlings don't survive. Does that mean that once his egg tooth is gone that his chances are better? I am not asking for you to gaze into a crystal ball, but just wondering when he is past the age of a high mortality rate. I realized that tortoise and turtles had a high mortality rate in the wild, but somehow thought that it would not be a factor with captive bred. I am just looking forward to a time when I can breath a little easier.

most of the

It is my opinion/observation that most of the hatchlings of all species that don't survive, fail because of chronic dehydration in the days and weeks right after hatching. The best predictor, or crystal ball if you like , of how likely your baby is to survive would be info from the breeder about how your baby was started right after hatching.

For me, I feel a lot better if a hatchling grows steadily and passes the 100 gram mark. If all goes well up to that point, it is usually going to continue to go well. Some russians will take a year to reach this point, but as long as growth is steady and continuous, all should be okay.

 

[Shutterbuginaz]

Oh no, not a good sign for Hatchback. The breeder I bought him from kept him in a shallow rubbermaid container with nothing but timothy hay for a substrate. Judging by the food in the container he was fed strictly leaf lettuce. She stated that she had the "pan" by the window and that was the extent of his care. When I asked him I should hold off for an adjustment period before his first soak she stated that "Russian should not be soaked." There was no water in the container at all. Of course he has been soaked daily and I have been maintaining good humidity so since I can't change his beginnings I will do what I can and ask you good people here for help along the way. Lesson learned today - It pays to acquire any pet from someone who does more than putting a male and female of the species together.

 

[Tom]

Weigh him weekly and share that with us. Russians are pretty tough little buggers and they come from a very harsh and variable environment. I would not spend too much time worrying. He looks pretty good in the two pics I can see and I'll bet he turns out fine.

 

[Shutterbuginaz]

I will start a chart right away. Thank again got sharing all you have learned. It is much appreciated.