Hatchling care-

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Moozillion

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I am currently considering getting a Hermanns. I suspect it would be best if I got a juvenile/yearling instead of a hatchling because I work full time and will likely be the sole caregiver to the little guy. Although my hubby is the love of my life, he is NOT AT ALL into reptiles and doesn't understand my interest. I could count on him to put food down when I'm not home, but that would be it. Soaking a hatchling would not likely be something he would do. Don't hatchlings need to be soaked several times a day? I could only do twice a day soakings: before and after work. Am I right about this or am I confused (again!)? :)
 

Terry Allan Hall

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Moozilion said:
I am currently considering getting a Hermanns. I suspect it would be best if I got a juvenile/yearling instead of a hatchling because I work full time and will likely be the sole caregiver to the little guy. Although my hubby is the love of my life, he is NOT AT ALL into reptiles and doesn't understand my interest. I could count on him to put food down when I'm not home, but that would be it. Soaking a hatchling would not likely be something he would do. Don't hatchlings need to be soaked several times a day? I could only do twice a day soakings: before and after work. Am I right about this or am I confused (again!)? :)

A daily soaking is fine, but I'd still suggest a yearling, as they're considerably less fragile.

And even a 20 yo tortoise can outlive all of us...my daughter already knows that when my wife and I cash in our chips, she's responsible for my torts, and any potential husband must to be a chelonophile...
 

GBtortoises

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Moozilion said:
I am currently considering getting a Hermanns. I suspect it would be best if I got a juvenile/yearling instead of a hatchling because I work full time and will likely be the sole caregiver to the little guy. Although my hubby is the love of my life, he is NOT AT ALL into reptiles and doesn't understand my interest. I could count on him to put food down when I'm not home, but that would be it. Soaking a hatchling would not likely be something he would do. Don't hatchlings need to be soaked several times a day? I could only do twice a day soakings: before and after work. Am I right about this or am I confused (again!)? :)
I disagree with most members on TFO that hatchling care is any different than for any other age of tortoise. We humans tend to look at every creature that is a baby as being "fragile", mainly because our own are. But baby tortoises and reptiles in general are born to survive from day one completely on their own. They must be self sufficient the second that they pop out of the egg.

The major difference in age (size) is body mass. This is where a majority of people that have problems with hatchlings fail to take into consideration. A younger tortoises body mass is much less than a larger animals. This allows for problems much sooner when something in their environment is not suitable. One of the biggest problems in captivity is dehydration. This is due primarily to the fact that many people keep their young tortoises far too hot. They are often in a constant battle to keep hydrated. Being dehydrated directly effects other functions such as food consumption, digestion, wastes dispostion and so on.

If you feed a tortoise in the morning before you leave for the day there is no reason why anyone should have to feed it during the day. Again, unlike human babies, that require hourly feeding and other care, tortoises do not require that. Nor would it part of their normal daily routine. Water should be available at all times already. Soaking is just added insurance. It's a good idea, but not absolutely necessary. This is especially true if a suitable amount of ambient humidity and substrate moisture are present along with access to drinking water.

In other words, there is no reason to shy away from a hatchling, yearling or any other young tortoise as long as your have the resources and are able to provide what it needs.
 

Tim/Robin

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Very well said Gary! I agree completely. I am living proof that you can start with hatchlings as first time owner and have great success! I see no reason to shy away from hatchlings IF you have done your home work ahead of time.
 

LuckysGirl007

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I'm a newbie...but my biggest concern for my sully hatchlings is them flipping over when I am not home. Other than that I have been following the advice on here and feel like I am doing a fairly decent job for a first time reptile/tortoise momma. So, I think a hatchling will be fine....just make sure there isn't anything (especially under the heat source) that he can go upside down from. ;)
 

Terry Allan Hall

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My point, which I really didn't elaborate on sufficiently, is that some hatchlings are born "weak" and just don't live very long, no matter how hard you try.

OTOH, if it makes it to a year old, and you give it good care, your chance of a long term relationship is considerable improved.
 

Moozillion

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Thanks so much for all the responses- you've given me lots to think about. I don't yet have my indoor/winter tort enclosure built yet, so I have a month or so to ponder on all this. I think the deciding factor will be my anxiety level!!! I tend to obsess and worry about all sorts of little details with any of my critters. Thanks again!!!
 

bettinge

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Moozilion said:
I am currently considering getting a Hermanns. I suspect it would be best if I got a juvenile/yearling instead of a hatchling because I work full time and will likely be the sole caregiver to the little guy. Although my hubby is the love of my life, he is NOT AT ALL into reptiles and doesn't understand my interest. I could count on him to put food down when I'm not home, but that would be it. Soaking a hatchling would not likely be something he would do. Don't hatchlings need to be soaked several times a day? I could only do twice a day soakings: before and after work. Am I right about this or am I confused (again!)? :)

As another side note, I think soaking several times a day may actually work against you as it would be added stress. I soak hatchlings once to twice a week. I also have water available for hatchlings, always.
 

CactusVinnie

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Agree with Gary and Scott- as long as they have water and a slightly humid hide, you can make it 1-2/week. In the wild they have no permanent tray with water, they should search for the hide and bath is absent- except rain. It is enough help offered, no use to treat them like turtles.
 

Raymo2477

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I would suggest going with an older tort if you can find one. I've raised hatchling box turtles and a Greek successfully but I have had bad luck with Hermann's. I lost three hatchlings in the past 5 years. Their setups were good, but the just failed to thrive. I've never had any issues with larger torts they just have the advantage of having some reserve body mass if something goes wrong.

It's not impossible to raise a hatchling...it's just easier IMHO and involves less tears.
 

Hank

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Soaking aint needed at all. In the wild the younglings of Hermans live in protective areas hidden between wood and plants. Even though they live in warm environments it still is moist in these areas. Especially during night and morning when the warm sea air hits the land and condenses on the ground. It is well known that young turtles absorb the water in the shield and makes them grow a smooth shield.

I have cocopeat on the bottom of the terrarium and I always keep it moist. Lets say a liter of water every other or two days.
 

Moozillion

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Wow- that seems like a lot of water, Hank! You spray it in the enclosure or pour it on the substrate? And how deep is your substrate?

I'm actually leaning towards getting a yearling or thereabouts because I'd be too torn up if I lost my very FIRST tort to that Hatchling Failure to Thrive, or Respiratorty infection.
 

CactusVinnie

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Raymo2477: losing 3 hatchlings Hermanni?? Hmmm... I just remembered what a French statistic concluded:

Hibernation :
Taux de mortalité = 25% en moyenne sans hibernation la 1ère année
Taux de mortalité = 4% en moyenne quand hibernation la 1ère année


Mortality rate = 25% as average without hibernation from year 1
Mortality rate = 4% as average when hibernating from year 1.

They included even some Graeca in the study, but of course, sensitive taxons were subjected to shorter hibernation- 3 months or less, compared to 4-5 for North-Mediteranean taxons.
 

Hank

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The enclosure is three by one feet. The substrate is 2-3 inches high. A liter of water ain't that much ;). As long as the substrate stays moist.

I think it matters a lot where and from whom you purchase your young tortoises. When the parents are fed well with quality food that has the right calcium phosphor ratio, don't get any meat and get their UV light then the babies hatch very strong.

Respiratory problems are often caused by the a version of the herpes virus. A few tortoise species are carrier and immune, for example all the Testudo greaca's, horsfildi's and pardalis. Don't keep them together, I wouldn't even purchase babies from someone who has either of the species in the same house or garden. I am very strict in that.

I would always purchase a baby myself or buy from someone who you know treats the turtles well. Then at least I know it had quality food and I don't get any problems on a later age.
 

Terry Allan Hall

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Moozilion said:
I'm actually leaning towards getting a yearling or thereabouts because I'd be too torn up if I lost my very FIRST tort to that Hatchling Failure to Thrive, or Respiratorty infection.

I would...that still leaves a VERY long time for you (and your descendents) to enjoy your tort-to-be's company.

And this time of year, you can often get a young male almost as inexpensively as a hatchling. :cool:
http://market.kingsnake.com/detail.php?cat=152&de=939174
http://market.kingsnake.com/detail.php?cat=152&de=943121
http://market.kingsnake.com/detail.php?cat=152&de=949818 (females)
 

Raymo2477

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I wished they'd lived long enough to reach a hibernation. All died within in a few months one only lived a week.

Knowing the source of the tort is the best thing. I would advise getting one from someone on the forum or from a trusted source. I bought from reptile shows and I do believe that the sellers were not practicing the best husbandry.

Never buy from some that keeps multiple types together and also try to buy from a breeder not a seller.
 
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