Heat lamp?

[JakeDevoe]

What kind of heat lamp should I use for my one year old red foots?

 

[JakeDevoe]

Is this a good heater for the night?
But I also need a good lamp for the day.

 

[JakeDevoe]

 

[JoesMum]

What kind of heat lamp should I use for my one year old red foots?

A normal reflector basking bulb (often called UVA which is just marketing rubbish) - not the intensified focussed spot bulb.

With one of those you would need a tube UVB lamp as well.

You need to get a thermostat to go with the CHE so you can regulate night temps. 150W is probably a bit high for a closed in set up.

 

[JakeDevoe]

I have the tube light and thanks!

 

[crimson_lotus]

I don't have a basking bulb for my redfoot, just a ceramic heat emitter and a uvb tube light. I did have a basking lamp but she really didn't use it, and I was told redfoots don't like bright lights anyway. She does, however, sit under the ceramic heat emitter at night.

 

[jockma]

Mine loves to bask and loves bright lights but he is a WEIRD redfoot. I use one MVB for lighting and UVB and the rest of the bulbs are CHEs. That way if he ever decides he hates light he can sit under a CHE in near total darkness.

 

[JakeDevoe]

Well is the one I posted a good choice?

 

[ZEROPILOT]

It would depend on your location and how much heat you need to ad.
For example, here. I require NO heat at night for all but a couple of days of Winter.
Indoors, my enclosures use no heat.
Just UVB.

 

[JakeDevoe]

Huh well I just ordered a temp gun.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Good. That will be very handy!

 

[Anyfoot]

View attachment 173026

I use a CHE on a stat and a strip uvb on a timer. Uvb is on for 14hrs a day. CHE is on constantly at one end of the enclosure. They regulate there own heat using up the length of the enclosure. Warm end is 88f, cool end is 82f.

 

[JakeDevoe]

Is the one I posted a good one?

 

[Markw84]

Yes. That one is fine. Just be sure you get a fixture with a ceramic base and rated for 250 watts to put that in

 

[JakeDevoe]

So I need one of those that is 250 watts?

 

[JakeDevoe]

How about this one?? Is it better just want the best for my little guys!

 

[Kapidolo Farms]

So I need one of those that is 250 watts?

The higher capacity socket is for margin of safety. The recommendation is not about getting a higher wattage heat emitter.

Some pros and cons, maybe too late for your need. The ceramic heat emitters have some drawback IMO. You can't see them when they are operating so have to use a thermometer or temp gun. This also means you don't see that they have burned out, or are on when your hands or fingers will be near them.

I have come to use low wattage heat panels with a thermostat. Set the temp you want, and there is a indicator light showing when it is actually on. Also, you can put your hand directly on the unit and not get burned.

These are the sources from my preferred vendor, other vendors are out there.

Panels: http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels

Thermostats are readily available in many places, you only need to be sure they are rated for the wattage of the heating device.

Thermostat: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OVD7Q8/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

this type of thermostat (the link) is just on and off, others, more expensive, regulate the flow of electricity so that 'just enough' is used to keep the area monitored by the thermostat at the right temp. This type, a proportional thermostat, reduces over shoot and lag that simple on/off thermostats miss. In most application a proportional thermostat is not required.

@Tom has a very simple formula for heat and light. Light should be on a timer for photo-period, and heat should be on a thermostat for temperature. He says it better.

 

[Kapidolo Farms]

The higher capacity socket is for margin of safety. The recommendation is not about getting a higher wattage heat emitter.

Some pros and cons, maybe too late for your need. The ceramic heat emitters have some drawback IMO. You can't see them when they are operating so have to use a thermometer or temp gun. This also means you don't see that they have burned out, or are on when your hands or fingers will be near them.

I have come to use low wattage heat panels with a thermostat. Set the temp you want, and there is a indicator light showing when it is actually on. Also, you can put your hand directly on the unit and not get burned.

These are the sources from my preferred vendor, other vendors are out there.

Panels: http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels

Thermostats are readily available in many places, you only need to be sure they are rated for the wattage of the heating device.

Thermostat: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OVD7Q8/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

this type of thermostat (the link) is just on and off, others, more expensive, regulate the flow of electricity so that 'just enough' is used to keep the area monitored by the thermostat at the right temp. This type, a proportional thermostat, reduces over shoot and lag that simple on/off thermostats miss. In most application a proportional thermostat is not required.

@Tom has a very simple formula for heat and light. Light should be on a timer for photo-period, and heat should be on a thermostat for temperature. He says it better.

@Weldon This is what I'm talking about.

 

[DutchieAmanda]

Mine loves to bask and loves bright lights but he is a WEIRD redfoot. I use one MVB for lighting and UVB and the rest of the bulbs are CHEs. That way if he ever decides he hates light he can sit under a CHE in near total darkness.

Hooray, another weird redfoot! Mine loves to bask too!

I use a CHE on a thermostat for basic temperature, and an MVB for light and UVB during the day.