I am so confused on what to get for my Russian tortoise. I have read the forum and different categories and I’m just still confused. The store employees are no help. I have my tortoise in a 20 gallon terrarium temporarily until my dad builds me a better and larger enclosure. I know I need a uvb light and a basking light. I just don’t know exactly what to buy. Do they sell a strip that has both in one? Are the double dome fixtures good? Can someone show me visually what to buy? Please dont tell me read the forum because I already did that and I’m just confused.
Help with lighting please
- Thread starter KBug76
- Start date
First, where are you? DIfferent advice for different areas of the country.
If you can't read it in a care sheet on the forum, how will it help to re-type it all here?
Heating and lighting is explained, along with many other important details right here:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/
Here is the paragraph on heating and lighting:
Heating and lighting:
If your tortoise gets regular sunshine for most of the year, you do not need any artificial indoor UV. An hour outside a couple of times a week is enough to meet their UV needs, but more is better. If your tortoise must live inside all the time, then I recommend long tube style florescent UV lights or mercury vapor bulbs. No reason you can't use both. Since my Russians do get sunshine all year, I just use 65 watt incandescent flood bulbs from the hardware store to meet my heating needs. I hang my fixture over one end of the enclosure and raise or lower it to get a basking spot of around 100. I hang my lights over a flat piece of slate or sandstone, which spreads the heat out a bit and allows them to get some safe belly heat while they bask. This can be used in conjunction with a long florescent UV tube, if needed. I don't use any other heat for Russians, and I let the temperature of the rest of the enclosure fade to room temp away from the single heat source. In most cases night heat for Russians is not necessary. Night temps in the 60s are fine as long as they can warm up the next day. If your Russian is trying to hibernate as fall approaches and you don't want it to, upping your temps (including the night temps), lengthening the days on your light timer and brightening the enclosure with more lights, are all ways to help convince them to stay up. For most Russian tortoises of any age, its really that simple. Put a 95-100 degree basking spot on one end for 12-14 hours a day and that's it.
If you can't read it in a care sheet on the forum, how will it help to re-type it all here?
Heating and lighting is explained, along with many other important details right here:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/
Here is the paragraph on heating and lighting:
Heating and lighting:
If your tortoise gets regular sunshine for most of the year, you do not need any artificial indoor UV. An hour outside a couple of times a week is enough to meet their UV needs, but more is better. If your tortoise must live inside all the time, then I recommend long tube style florescent UV lights or mercury vapor bulbs. No reason you can't use both. Since my Russians do get sunshine all year, I just use 65 watt incandescent flood bulbs from the hardware store to meet my heating needs. I hang my fixture over one end of the enclosure and raise or lower it to get a basking spot of around 100. I hang my lights over a flat piece of slate or sandstone, which spreads the heat out a bit and allows them to get some safe belly heat while they bask. This can be used in conjunction with a long florescent UV tube, if needed. I don't use any other heat for Russians, and I let the temperature of the rest of the enclosure fade to room temp away from the single heat source. In most cases night heat for Russians is not necessary. Night temps in the 60s are fine as long as they can warm up the next day. If your Russian is trying to hibernate as fall approaches and you don't want it to, upping your temps (including the night temps), lengthening the days on your light timer and brightening the enclosure with more lights, are all ways to help convince them to stay up. For most Russian tortoises of any age, its really that simple. Put a 95-100 degree basking spot on one end for 12-14 hours a day and that's it.
I’m in CT.
I was asking about lighting because I didnt understand how you have a long light fixture on the top and a basking fixture on the same top. Is the long light only taking up half of the top? Will the basking fixture melt the long light fixture? I guess I was maybe hoping for pictures to understand better. All I am doing is trying to do the right thing for my tortoise and I feel that comment was talking down to me like I’m stupid. I simply just didnt understand.
I was asking about lighting because I didnt understand how you have a long light fixture on the top and a basking fixture on the same top. Is the long light only taking up half of the top? Will the basking fixture melt the long light fixture? I guess I was maybe hoping for pictures to understand better. All I am doing is trying to do the right thing for my tortoise and I feel that comment was talking down to me like I’m stupid. I simply just didnt understand.
Take a deep breath. No one is talking down too you. We are here to help. It's summer, so no big rush for heat or light with using the sun. The 20 gallon won't work as you know, that's why your having a bigger enclosure made. For now if you can get him outside for natural sunlight that will do until your enclosure is built and for the summer months. If this is an adult Russian, then build a minimum of a 4x8 table and that will last his life and then build an out door enclosure for summer. If you don't have room for a 4x8 build a two level enclosure.
Read what Tom wrote for you and if you still don't understand come back and ask for clarification. You enclosure should be big enough if you build the proper size to house the lighting and heating you will need. It sounds harder then it is. Take it in, in sections. Trying too take all the care instructions all at once can become over whelming. Also forget what you read outside of this forum or what the store might have told you and follow this forums care and you'll do fine.
Read what Tom wrote for you and if you still don't understand come back and ask for clarification. You enclosure should be big enough if you build the proper size to house the lighting and heating you will need. It sounds harder then it is. Take it in, in sections. Trying too take all the care instructions all at once can become over whelming. Also forget what you read outside of this forum or what the store might have told you and follow this forums care and you'll do fine.
Thank you! It is very overwhelming! I apologize if I sounded rude. I’m not sure how old my tortoise is. He’s about 6”.
Would one of the Powersun lights work? I’ve been reading about them. If so, should I put the light a certain number of inches from the sub? I can put him outside for a few more months until it starts to get cold. We’ve been having a lot of rainy weather lately so I haven’t put him outside. He hasn’t eaten today but I did give him some lettuce. I bought him some cat grass today. I also have some veggie plants outside that I will be giving him the leaves from. He doesn’t seem to want to eat today.
Would one of the Powersun lights work? I’ve been reading about them. If so, should I put the light a certain number of inches from the sub? I can put him outside for a few more months until it starts to get cold. We’ve been having a lot of rainy weather lately so I haven’t put him outside. He hasn’t eaten today but I did give him some lettuce. I bought him some cat grass today. I also have some veggie plants outside that I will be giving him the leaves from. He doesn’t seem to want to eat today.
daniellenc
Well-Known Member
Just like this. Cut a whole in your lid and purchase 100 watt CHE. MVB’s get too hot in most closed chambers unless it’s huge and tall. Line hole with foil and put CHE on a thermostat. Then mount tube inside the lid. If you need a basking bulb you could add one as well but the CHE easily can be set to 95 degrees. In a long enough enclosure you should be able still have a cooler area. But if you’re getting an adult recommendations will be different because you could use an open table. Then the tube would need to be hung as well as a basking bulb from a secure structure above.I’m in CT.
I was asking about lighting because I didnt understand how you have a long light fixture on the top and a basking fixture on the same top. Is the long light only taking up half of the top? Will the basking fixture melt the long light fixture? I guess I was maybe hoping for pictures to understand better. All I am doing is trying to do the right thing for my tortoise and I feel that comment was talking down to me like I’m stupid. I simply just didnt understand.
Thank you for the pictures and info! What does “CHE” stand for? Sorry I am new to the lingo. I figured out MVB lol
It's not a hatchling. It's about six inches. That's an older Russian and doesn't need a closed chamber only a humid hide or 30-50% humid enclosure. it also needs an adult size enclosure of a 4x8 foot.
Don't use a double light fixture.
Also you have an older Russian so you don't need a closed chamber.
You can use the power sun that will give you light, heat and uvb and a basking spot. Get a point and shoot temp gun and get the temp under the power sun 95-100 degrees and that will be the basking spot. You can then also add a ceramic heat emitter (Che) for added heat if needed or you could use a regular 60 watt incandescent bulb to keep the rest of the enclosure around 78-80 degrees. At night if your house in winter doesn't go below 68 degrees you won't need heat at night.
Also you have an older Russian so you don't need a closed chamber.
You can use the power sun that will give you light, heat and uvb and a basking spot. Get a point and shoot temp gun and get the temp under the power sun 95-100 degrees and that will be the basking spot. You can then also add a ceramic heat emitter (Che) for added heat if needed or you could use a regular 60 watt incandescent bulb to keep the rest of the enclosure around 78-80 degrees. At night if your house in winter doesn't go below 68 degrees you won't need heat at night.
Is there a certain wattage that would be better for my temporary set up?
I would only use the 60 watt incandescent bulb for the temp set up if you can get him outside 3-4 times a week for about an hour at least each time. Be sure he has shade and water available while outside.
If you can't get him out then use the lowest watt powersun there is. I think it's a 60 or 100 watt.
Or you can do a fluorescent uvb strip light and a 60 watt incandescent for the basking spot. This second choice might work best for the small temp home and will still work fine in the larger home.
If you can't get him out then use the lowest watt powersun there is. I think it's a 60 or 100 watt.
Or you can do a fluorescent uvb strip light and a 60 watt incandescent for the basking spot. This second choice might work best for the small temp home and will still work fine in the larger home.
If I do the second option, would I use one of those dome fixtures for the incandescent? How would that fit with the strip light without melting it? Sorry I am trying to envision your suggestion so that I understand. I probably sound like an idiot lol
I’m in CT.
I was asking about lighting because I didnt understand how you have a long light fixture on the top and a basking fixture on the same top. Is the long light only taking up half of the top? Will the basking fixture melt the long light fixture? I guess I was maybe hoping for pictures to understand better. All I am doing is trying to do the right thing for my tortoise and I feel that comment was talking down to me like I’m stupid. I simply just didnt understand.
There are four elements to heating and lighting:
- Basking bulb. I use 65 watt floods from the hardware store. I run them on a timer and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. You can use smaller or larger wattage bulbs to help you get the desired temperature under them too.
- Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. You'd only need day heat for a Testudo species, so you don't need this part.
- Light. I use florescent tubes for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most tubes at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. If the room where the enclosure sits if well lit, and the tortoises behavior is normal, you don't "need" this either.
- UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. If you want it anyway, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height.
Yes, I use a dome for the incandescent because it helps to keep the heat from just escaping upwards. Any dome you use, make it a bigger one that's not as cone shaped as some are. You can get them cheaper at a hardware store or even Home Depot. For a regular bulb it doesn't have to be a ceramic socket however if you ever use a dome for a Che (ceramic heat emitter or a mercury vapor bulb it has to have a ceramic socket.
Put the fluorescent towards one end and towards the side. Hang the other light at the other end in the middle. An incandescent shouldn't melt the fixture of the fluorescent but if your worried about it you can put some tin foil over the fluorescent fixture where the light possibly shines on it.
Your not sounding stupid. It's legit worries/questions that a lot of us have had too figure out by trial and error or asked ourselves when we first got started. Better too ask then waste time or money doing it wrong. Besides, some of us are better with visuals then trying to understand instructions.
Take a look in the enclosure section. Some of the enclosures there might help you too get a visual.
Put the fluorescent towards one end and towards the side. Hang the other light at the other end in the middle. An incandescent shouldn't melt the fixture of the fluorescent but if your worried about it you can put some tin foil over the fluorescent fixture where the light possibly shines on it.
Your not sounding stupid. It's legit worries/questions that a lot of us have had too figure out by trial and error or asked ourselves when we first got started. Better too ask then waste time or money doing it wrong. Besides, some of us are better with visuals then trying to understand instructions.
Take a look in the enclosure section. Some of the enclosures there might help you too get a visual.
Minority2
Well-Known Member
A "closed chamber" setup would allow you to use lesser wattage equipment and still retain similar temperature levels throughout your entire enclosure, thereby saving you more money. Separate basking and UVB setups are much more preferable to a single setup.
Get a temperature gun and experiment with your findings until you get the suggest temperatures stated in this thread.
Make sure get proper sealing on the basking light to obtain the best results. Adult Russians are very hardy creatures when healthy and fed with approved items stated on various sticky posts found on the forum.
If you don't have any light fixtures at the moment consider setting up a temporary outdoor enclosure until you can procure the necessary equipment to sufficiently house the tortoise.
- Go to your local hardware store and buy the necessary light fixtures there. I cannot stress this enough.
You mentioned store employees not giving you any help. Did you happen to buy the tortoise from a big box pet store? You should probably get your tortoise checked by an experienced reptilian veterinarian if you haven't already done so.
