!!! HELP WITH MY LEOPARD TORTOISE PLEASE !!!

Ricardoleopard

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Oct 4, 2024
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Hello everyone,


I recently bought my 6-month-old leopard tortoise last Monday (01/10/2024) and I’ve been really worried because she hasn’t been eating or basking at all. I'm not even sure if she's been drinking water when I bathe her.


When I got her, I also bought a tortoise table and a starter kit, but I realized that the all-in-one Arcadia 100W bulb wasn’t providing adequate coverage. Some areas were too cool, around 70°F during the day. So, I added a 150W heat lamp in a corner, aiming for a daytime temperature of 80°F–86°F in the hot area, a warm spot at 75°F–78°F, and a basking spot of 102°F.


I’m concerned that I might be doing something incorrectly. Are the heat and basking lamps too much for her, possibly causing her to avoid heating and basking? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

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Dec 28, 2023
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Hello and welcome to the forum!

Lighting&heating equipment could do with amending, any kind of ‘all in one uv and heat’ bulbs aren’t appropriate nor are spot bulbs.

What your wanting for a basking light is an incandescent floodlight, temperature directly underneath should range 95-100f. The rest of the enclosure should be in the 80-85 range, you don’t want any part of your enclosure cooler than 80 day or night for a leopard. To combat this you need to install a CHE(s)(ceramic heat emitters) which are a non light emitting heat bulb, they need running on a thermostat.

Incorrect lighting and heating could be causing inactivity.

How’s your humidity reading? I don’t suppose you’d mind adding a photo of your set up? What do you use for substrate?

I think you’ll find this thread below a really useful read, I cover correct equipment(lighting&heating, including the correct uv), levels, substrates, appropriately maintaining humidity, the importance of a closed chamber, there’s lots of visual examples for everything and a good diet link to check out!

This one is also really good to familiarise yourself with, it’ll help you avoid the wrong bulbs, substrates, housing etc, I also encourage double checking new purchases on the forum first!

Oh one last thing, with the uv timing, every other source of information will tell you 12hours of uv. This is essentially an old fashioned rule that has stuck with a lot of keepers, it stems from the presumption that once the basking light or ambient lighting is on, ie the ‘sun’, that uv must coexist the same amount of hours. Fact is, uv rays only peak for a few hours a day, anyone with a uv meter will confirm this. No tortoise is blasted with 12 hours of uv in the wild, therefore it’s not necessary in captivity.
The uv bulbs are much more expensive to replace once their uv strength diminishes, so it’s definitely best having it on a 4 hour timer that provides them with all the uv they need, saving your bulb life.
Then some cheaper led lighting for your ambient 12 hour light cycle as well as the basking light on the same 12hrs, your ceramics will run 24/7 on a thermostat, hopefully that will make more sense once you read the threads. I would adjust the timing for now until uv is amended with the correct type🙂

Hope all this helps! Give those threads a read and let me know what you think! Always happy to answer further questions🐢💚
 

wellington

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Yes, you are housing incorrectly and temps are wrong.
You need a closed chamber enclosure with 80% humidity, basking temp with an incandescent FLOOD bulb that reaches 95-100 a tube flourescent for uvb and ceramic heat emitter for added heat.
Temps day and night all over should be 80 not lower. Night time should be dark, no light and that's what the ceramic heat emitter does. You may need two of them.
A low sided clay saucer for water and soak in warm water daily.
Make changes asap.
 
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