Hibernating.

[Mr Buster]

If you keep bothering a rt that is hibernating what could happen ?

I don't know if Buster is or not. When I come home from work he is asleep in his cave borrowed into a corner even though the mercury lamp is on and the heat is up over 90. He seems very drowsy and no eating and just wants to sleep. I have had him only 4 days and the first two days he seemed very active. I think also he may be just suffering from jet lag, I have the light on a timer from 4AM to 530PM.

 

[wellington]

With those temps, he won't hibernate. Give him time to get adjusted to his new home and you.
If he were really hibernating, the temps would have to be much colder, he would have to be prepared and if you were to keep disturbing him, it would be very unhealthy for him, if not death.
You have not had him long enough to hibernate him this year. Tortoise should be owned for a year before hibernating to make sure all is good with him and that he is healthy enough to hibernate. They also need to be prepared to hibernate and should be hibernated in a controlled environment. That's why I don't hibernate my Russian, too risky for me.

 

[JoesMum]

A tortoise does not hibernate until temperatures are below 10C/50F

A new tort frequently hides away and refuses to eat because it is frightened of its new surroundings.

Two things are essential in this period
1. Being absolutely certain that your lighting and temperatures are correct. If it's too cool for your tort to be properly active, or your tort's eyes are being hurt by a compact CFL UVB bulb, then it will hide away. I'll post in more detail about heat/lights next post.

2. Daily 30 minute soaks in warm water to ensure your tort stays hydrated. Use a high sided bowl that your tort can't see through and have the water just deep enough to come up over the line between its shell and plastron.
If your tort poops in the water just scoop it out with your hand. If it pees in the water ignore it. If the water cools then change it.

I always suggest establishing a routine with a new tort so it learns what's safe and what to expect:
- Have the lights come on and go off with a timer
- Soak your tortoise first thing for 30 minutes before it's warmed up properly.
- While your tort soaks, tidy the enclosure and place food
- Replace your tort and walk away. Don't be tempted to watch over as you're big and scary just now. Leave your tort to be brave and explore.

Photos of the enclosure and lighting will help us to help you be certain the setup is just right.

If you haven't already, then please read the following
Beginner Mistakes
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Russian Tortoise Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/

 

[JoesMum]

Here's a lighting summary:

Your tort needs:

1. A basking lamp
This must hang vertically, not at an angle. Basking is essential to raise your tortoise's core temperature so it can digest food.

2. UVB light
Read the instructions for the source to see how close to the substrate it must be. UVB is essential so your tort can process dietary calcium and have healthy bones and shell.

Both 1 and 2 are available from the sun for those able to live outside.

UVB does not pass through glass or perspex(plexiglass) - light must be direct to be effective not through a window. Mesh screening can also interfere with UVB.

3. A minimum overnight temperature (see the care sheet for your species) and complete darkness at night to sleep.


Notes

(a) A Mercury Vapor Bulb (MVB) provides combined UVB and Basking. Alternatively you can use 2 bulbs: a tube UVB and a reflector bulb for basking (a household reflector - not low energy or halogen - from a hardware store will do the job; it's the wattage that counts)

(b) Ignore any references to UVA you may read - it's misleading marketing speak.

(c) Compact coil UVB harms tortoise eyes and must not be used.

(d) Basking and UVB should be on a timer so the light(s) are on for 12 hours a day. Temperature under the basking is regulated by its height above the substrate.

(e) Overnight, depending on your home, you may need additional heat. You get this from a CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter) which must be on a thermostat.

(f) Torts have outstanding colour vision and love red and purple food. Coloured heat lamps colour tank decor and torts don't always apply intelligence to what they eat, resulting them in eating tank decor. Coloured bulbs should not be used.


Measurements

There are 4 important temperatures that you must know for an indoor enclosure.
- Directly under the basking lamp
- Warm side
- Cool side
- Overnight Minimum

You will need digital thermometers for accuracy.

A temperature gun thermometer (inexpensive from Amazon) measures temperature accurately in specific places like directly under the basking lamp.

A min/max thermometer so you know the min/max temperatures in your home by day and night.

You should also get a good digital probe hygrometer to measure humidity.

Thermometers and hygrometer that stick to the side of the enclosure tend to be less accurate.

 

[Mr Buster]

I probably am just a nervous new tortoise daddy. I leveled the substrate before I left and he left a lot of tracks and also ate some of the lettuce I left out. Thanks for reminding me the purpose of soaking. I did soak him on Sunday but that seems to be when his reclusiveness set in. I guess I am just getting home after he has turned in. I leave for work at 430AM so set the light timer for 430AM to make sure it has gone on. I read that some folks have had problem with the mercury lights blowing soon after purchase. I have a duel bulbs, one the mercury vapor bulb and the other a heat lamp.

I think he is just mad at the lifestyle change, Maybe he liked the small glass enclosure and constant harassment and cruddy food at Pet Smart better than he likes having me for his biache.

 

[Blakem]

I didn't let my Russian hibernate. I didn't bother him at all, I just kept his light on during the day as I did during the warmer months, with the ceramic bulb at night. He was VERY slow and only ate maybe a few times a week. On the warmer days, I brought him outside. I continued to give him his usual soaks.

 

[JoesMum]

I probably am just a nervous new tortoise daddy. I leveled the substrate before I left and he left a lot of tracks and also ate some of the lettuce I left out. Thanks for reminding me the purpose of soaking. I did soak him on Sunday but that seems to be when his reclusiveness set in. I guess I am just getting home after he has turned in. I leave for work at 430AM so set the light timer for 430AM to make sure it has gone on. I read that some folks have had problem with the mercury lights blowing soon after purchase. I have a duel bulbs, one the mercury vapor bulb and the other a heat lamp.

I think he is just mad at the lifestyle change, Maybe he liked the small glass enclosure and constant harassment and cruddy food at Pet Smart better than he likes having me for his biache.

You have both an MVB and a heat lamp in a dual fitting?

An MVB is a heat lamp combined with UVB in one lamp . You shouldn't need both bulbs and having them in a dual fitting is likely to make the basking temperature too hot.

Having things too hot can make a tortoise inactive as well as too cool.

 

[Mr Buster]

Thanks everyone.

 

[Roddytort121]

Mine are both exactly the same, but as much as they want to hibernate and stay tucked u for days at a time they still come out and have a good munch and bathe for half an hour or so and hen return to bed. I suspect they want to hibernate but it's too warm for them so they're stuck in limbo!