Hi I’ve never hibernated my two tortoises aged 6 and 7 they are housed separate but in the same heated shed. They are Russians, Male and female. My female who is the older one and weighs just over 1000 grams, has decided to do it herself I think. She’s not eaten for about 3 - 4 weeks and dug herself in substrate ( damp coir soil ) I soak her but completely refuses food. My question is do I let her get on with it or not ?
Hibernation worry
- Thread starter Suey
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2017
- Messages
- 5,942
- Location (City and/or State)
- Low desert 50 mi SE of Palm Springs CA
I think it mostly depends on if she's safe where she is. Can anything get to her, like rats or ants?
What temp is she at? Does the temp stay fairly steady, or is it up and down frequently? Russians ideally should be around 7° or 8°C for a true brumation.
Did she stop eating at least 2 weeks prior to digging in? This is necessary to clear the gut of any food.
Was she in good health all summer? No RI's?
I generally am inclined to let a tort do what it wants. I think if you can answer these questions with reasonable certainty, then she should be fine. But if she's restless and keeps getting up for a day and then sleeping, and getting up a couple days later, then sleeping...then maybe you need a bit more heat and bright light in the shed to keep her awake.
Hopefully someone else will reply and give their opinion.
What temp is she at? Does the temp stay fairly steady, or is it up and down frequently? Russians ideally should be around 7° or 8°C for a true brumation.
Did she stop eating at least 2 weeks prior to digging in? This is necessary to clear the gut of any food.
Was she in good health all summer? No RI's?
I generally am inclined to let a tort do what it wants. I think if you can answer these questions with reasonable certainty, then she should be fine. But if she's restless and keeps getting up for a day and then sleeping, and getting up a couple days later, then sleeping...then maybe you need a bit more heat and bright light in the shed to keep her awake.
Hopefully someone else will reply and give their opinion.
Thanks for reply. Yes she’s always been a big healthy girl, I have turned her heat lamp off this morning as she’s still dug in . My problem is with having my Male in separate enclosure at the side.and the uv tube light goes across both of them. Charlie doesn’t seem to want to hibernate and eats every day. I don’t think she ate for at least two weeks, maybe more before she dug down but does get up some days but won’t eat. That’s probably because I’ve had her heat bulb on. There is also a thermostat oil radiator as we get cold in winter. This year we have a colder more snowy winter than usual.
Attachments
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2017
- Messages
- 5,942
- Location (City and/or State)
- Low desert 50 mi SE of Palm Springs CA
For a true brumation, the temp needs to be around 7-8°C. That is cold enough to put the tort into a sleep deep enough that her respiration and heart rates slow way down. This is how she can survive months of brumation. The only resource she really uses is water, which she holds in her bladder.
If the temp is too warm, or worse yet, varies up and down all the time, she will use up her body's resources too quickly, leading to dehydration and possible starvation.
This is how it all works outside. Since we try to mimic "outside" in our enclosures, these are the conditions we should strive for. Unfortunately, we are woefully inadequate most of the time.
I think temp is your biggest concern. Get the temp as low as you can, (no lower than 7°C), and keep it there. Keep the basking light off.
I don't think the UVB tube matters. Give her enough substrate to get completely covered.
Remove the food and don't offer her any. Until she wakes up for good, you want her gut to stay empty.
Keep her water freshly supplied. If she wakes, it's good for her to drink if she wants.
This is what I would do.
Your other option is to give extra heat and extra bright light to try to keep her awake. But she still might go to sleep if you don't convince her that spring has come. Russians do not have to brumate, so it's your decision.
If the temp is too warm, or worse yet, varies up and down all the time, she will use up her body's resources too quickly, leading to dehydration and possible starvation.
This is how it all works outside. Since we try to mimic "outside" in our enclosures, these are the conditions we should strive for. Unfortunately, we are woefully inadequate most of the time.
I think temp is your biggest concern. Get the temp as low as you can, (no lower than 7°C), and keep it there. Keep the basking light off.
I don't think the UVB tube matters. Give her enough substrate to get completely covered.
Remove the food and don't offer her any. Until she wakes up for good, you want her gut to stay empty.
Keep her water freshly supplied. If she wakes, it's good for her to drink if she wants.
This is what I would do.
Your other option is to give extra heat and extra bright light to try to keep her awake. But she still might go to sleep if you don't convince her that spring has come. Russians do not have to brumate, so it's your decision.
Thank you very much for reply, if I decide to keep temps up and try to keep her awake but she still doesn’t eat , will this do any harm? I have always soaked her every 3 days. I am definitely going to get a fridge for next year and do it properly.
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2017
- Messages
- 5,942
- Location (City and/or State)
- Low desert 50 mi SE of Palm Springs CA
Torts can go a long time without eating. She won't starve herself. Add extra lighting too. And keep lights on for 14 hours instead of 12. You're trying to trick her into thinking spring has sprung! 
☘???
☘???Similar threads
