Humidity = Nemesis

J_Alba1980

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Good morning! I've read as many threads as I can find on humidity and lighting and the like. Even used the search button. Hoping you guys can tell me if my proposed changes are a $$$ waste (not that it ever really is a waste, I mean, the more bulbs and tanks the merrier right?) If any of you folks see an issue with the changes and can recommend something else given my current cage situation, I"m all ears!
I have Walter ( 2 1/2" Sulcata) in a 50 gal cage. Mostly closed chamber. I had to put a piece of wood on top to enclose, but then had to make an 8" diameter cut to place the basking lamp.
What I"m using right now (many, many changes and upgrades in the 5 days I've had him lol)
DAYTIME
*160w power sun mercury bulb for basking. Temps get to 105-110. Fixture raised and uncovered due to high temps when it is. The cold side doesn't get above 76. Grrr...not high enough...
* Repti fogger system (boosted my humidity from 10%- 60%) MUCH improved, but...Grrr not high enough....
NIGHTIME
*60w che on warm side (I switch bulbs at night) Warm side stays 81-83, cool side gets down to 70. Ugh!
*Repti Fogger on low, keeps humidity around 80-83%

Proposed changes until I can figure out how to do it and make it pretty :)
DAY- switching to a lower watt basking bulb so that I can drop the whole fixture into the cage and cover with aluminum foil, creating a more closed chamber, and adding a 40w che to the cool side. If I can drop the entire fixture and cover, I can keep in humidity during the day.
NIGHT- Switching to 2 40w che's

In order to be fully enclosed, the fixtures have to drop in, and would put them about 8-10 inches from substrate. On a side note, you follks that have been here awhile... it's your knowledge all us newbies are after, and I appreciate the patience with us :)
 

Yvonne G

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I find that a 100 watt bulb is sufficient. I have even heated a four foot long plastic tub with just a 60 watt black light bulb. So I really don't think you need that 160 watt strength.

You could jury rig some sort of tent type cover that goes OVER the lights instead of something that lays flat on the aquarium. That way you could raise your light to get the temperature you want. But bear in mind when you raise your UVB light you may be taking the UVB up too high to do any good.
 

J_Alba1980

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Is there a chart or something to find out how much UVB he needs, so I can decipher if he's getting enough?
 

wellington

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image.jpg I would do as Yvonne suggested. Rigging a plastic tent over the enclosure. This will help you get the room you need for adjusting.
I covered my lights with tin foil so they don't get too hot on the plastic.
Buy 100 watt Che's. 40's won't do much. Put them on a thermostat/rheostat and they will not get the enclosure too hot. I also never buy hotter then a 100 watt mvb.
The above pic is of what I did to tent my leopard hatchlings. The humidity never gets below 80 and temps stay in the 80's. The two Che's is on a thermostat.
 

J_Alba1980

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I'll give the thermostat a try. I have the 60w in there at night now, I"ll try the 100 with a thermostat. :)
 

Tom

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Everyone handles these thing differently. Here is what I would do:
Junk the whole thing and buy or build a closed chamber. It will solve all the problems, make your life easier, and make the tortoises life better. Easier said (typed…) than done, I know.

For your situation:
  1. MVBs run too hot and they are too desiccating. Get a 65 watt flood and adjust the height to get a basking temp of 95-100. Run it inside the enclosure. You might have to go even lower wattage in a 50 gallon tank. I'm using 39 watt round bulbs in my current coded chambers.
  2. Get a 100-150 watt CHE and run it on a thermostat. 60 watts isn't enough and neither will two 40 watts be hot enough, and without a thermostat, your temp will never be right. I use this one and like it: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller Set your thermostat's probe far away from all heat sources and close to substrate level.
  3. Get rid of the humidifier. Close in the top and use the right heating and lighting, and you won't need it.
  4. How thick is your substrate and what type? How damp? Fine grade orchid bark works best and 4-5 inches of it will help maintain good humidity when it is properly dampened.
  5. Get a ZooMed 10.0HO T5 bulb for UV. They work great and last a long time. Arcadia makes good ones too, but they might be too strong for your application.
 

J_Alba1980

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I’m using coconut coir about 3-4 inches deep with bark on top, about an inch or less of it. I didn’t mist his enclosure the first 3 days I had him. His humidity was LOW, like 10-15%. He had his humid hide and twice daily soaks, but clearly it wasn’t enough.
I’ll switch out his bulbs immediately, get the thermostat, ditch the Fogger and readjust a few things to enclose the top. I’ll build a new, bigger closed chamber. If I recall, 30” tall per one of your threads.
When I Iook at pics of closed chamber enclosures, they are wood... don’t i need to worry about 80% humidity vs wood... the wood losing? I’d love to use lexan, but that’s super pricey for a 4’x6’.
I’m just hoping I haven’t done any damage to him, his first few days with me were too dry.
 

J_Alba1980

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Sooo many watt options for the zoo med t5. Would 24w 22” be sufficient?
So, I need the zoo med bulb for basking, Che for ambient and night, and the zoo med for uv? Won’t the zoo med alone create high enough temps for basking? I am sure that you are suggesting I do both to make my life easier and his happier, I am curious on the why 2 lights :)
 

Tom

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Sooo many watt options for the zoo med t5. Would 24w 22” be sufficient?
So, I need the zoo med bulb for basking, Che for ambient and night, and the zoo med for uv? Won’t the zoo med alone create high enough temps for basking? I am sure that you are suggesting I do both to make my life easier and his happier, I am curious on the why 2 lights :)
1. The ZooMed UV tube is for UV. It doesn't produce enough heat for basking.
2. The basking bulb from the hardware store is for basking heat and light. This is so they can warm up higher than ambient, as they would do in the sun outside.
3. The CHE set on a thermostat is to maintain ambient and night temps where you want them. So it never gets too cold.
4. Some people like to add a fourth "regular" florescent tube for more light in a closed chamber.

If you make your chamber out of wood, you will need to seal the inside. @Markw84 recommends countertop paint, but I haven't tried it yet. Non-toxic boat paint will work too. I use Pond Shield on my last build and that is working perfectly for me.

You can also buy a closed chamber from Reptile Basics or Animal Plastics. This is my preferred method now.

3 days of dryness won't hurt your tortoise if it was getting 2 soaks a day. Usually, one soak a day is enough, although I don't think 2 will hurt anything.
 

Sterant

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Everyone handles these thing differently. Here is what I would do:
Junk the whole thing and buy or build a closed chamber. It will solve all the problems, make your life easier, and make the tortoises life better. Easier said (typed…) than done, I know.

For your situation:
  1. MVBs run too hot and they are too desiccating. Get a 65 watt flood and adjust the height to get a basking temp of 95-100. Run it inside the enclosure. You might have to go even lower wattage in a 50 gallon tank. I'm using 39 watt round bulbs in my current coded chambers.
  2. Get a 100-150 watt CHE and run it on a thermostat. 60 watts isn't enough and neither will two 40 watts be hot enough, and without a thermostat, your temp will never be right. I use this one and like it: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller Set your thermostat's probe far away from all heat sources and close to substrate level.
  3. Get rid of the humidifier. Close in the top and use the right heating and lighting, and you won't need it.
  4. How thick is your substrate and what type? How damp? Fine grade orchid bark works best and 4-5 inches of it will help maintain good humidity when it is properly dampened.
  5. Get a ZooMed 10.0HO T5 bulb for UV. They work great and last a long time. Arcadia makes good ones too, but they might be too strong for your application.
Do this.....Then its right and done. This methods works - no question about it.
 

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