Lots of questions about my RT

[flimsybox]

So I got Tom, my Russian Tortoise about a month ago. It was a bit of a surprise, even though I asked for one. I didn't know hardly anything about them. I did research, but a lot of the information is confusing. You guys are the experts, so here are my questions, situations, and experiences with Tom. I'd prefer if you didn't link me to somewhere, as I will most likely get lost ^_^;

1st question: What can I feed Tom that I can find at my local grocery store (to be stored in the fridge)?
When I first got him, I fed him T-Rex Tortoise dry formula with water. I was later told this was a terrible excuse for food. I switched to iceberg lettuce (or what I thought was iceberg). I was told that had no nutritional value. So I switched to fruits only. I was THEN told that was too much sugar and can cause problems. So now I'm feeding him all Romaine Lettuce and one strawberry as a treat.

2nd question: Is it normal for his nails to be long?
His nails are about as long in length as mine are. I always thought that tortoises should have short nails. Do I need to cut them or take him to the vet?

3rd question: What does healthy tortie poo look like?
I heard that it's supposed to look dry and white, but then I also heard it's supposed to be watery and white. When Tom was on the fruit and T-Rex kibble diet, he had watery green poo. I knew that wasn't right, but I didn't know what to do about it. But now that he's on the Romaine Lettuce diet, he's got white, watery poo. (And he pees like a horse o_0 ).

4th question: What should I do about humidity?
Right now I have a misting bottle that I use to simulate rain in his habitat. I don't squirt it on him, because he doesn't like it and ducks his head in and moves away. I heard you're supposed to soak them in chin-deep, luke-warm water every week. Should I switch to doing that or is the misting bottle enough?

5th question: If he falls on his back, should I let him get up by himself?
Someone told me that it's good exercise (and health check) to let him flip himself back up on his feet. Others say that it's cruel to not flip him over yourself.

6th question: Do I need to clean his shell?
I'm not sure if I heard this or fabricated it in my head, but are you supposed to use a tooth brush to clean his shell every week or so? Or is it just when he gets in poo or something? I know not to use any kind of soap, and I did it once with plain water because he had green poo stuck to the bottom of his shell. He didn't like it, and kept trying to scramble away.

7th question: Calcium powder or cuttlebone? And how long do cuttlebones last?
Right now I have calcium powder and I hate to say it, but I've been forgetting to sprinkle it on his food when he eats. I figured it'd be easier on both of us if I got a cuttlebone that he can freely chew on. I saw this GREAT idea where someone created a cuttlebone that tasted like key lime and another one that tasted like kiwi strawberry. I figure that would be a good treat in place of the actual fruits I place every week. They cost about 5 dollars for a two pack of 5 inch long bones on etsy. Links if you're interested:
( https://www.etsy.com/listing/204342695/organic-key-lime-flavored-cuttlebone?ref=related-1 )
( https://www.etsy.com/listing/204343847/organic-kiwi-strawberry-flavored?ref=related-1 )

8th question: Exercise?
I have a LOT of cats roaming around the house because my parents breed pure bred Siamese. I'm hesitant to let the kittens mess with him as I'm not sure if cats can get salmonella by licking him or something (I also don't want them to scratch or bite him). I let him out in my room, but my room has a lot of nooks and crannies so I was nervous he'd get lost. It's too cold to put him outside, and too noisy to put him in the bathtub. What can I do?

9th question: Can I buy or craft a leash for the warmer months?
I was wondering if there's such a thing as a buyable leash for tortoises, or if I can make one out of rubber bands, yarn, ribbon, or whatever. If you've made one and it works well, please tell me how to do it!

10th question: Crocheted costumes?
Are they bad for tortoises in any way? How long can I keep Tom in a costume? I know not to paint his shell, which is why I want to be able to dress him up in something cute.

11th question: How long am I supposed to leave my UVB/UVA light and Heat lamp on?
Right now I turn on the UVB/UVA light for 12 hours a day, starting at 7 am and it's off at 7 pm. I leave the heat lamp on all the time at 95 degrees. The other side of the tank is usually around 73. Is this okay or do I need to turn the heat lamp off as well?

And finally, here is a picture of Tom's current living space (ignore the mess in the bg ). Let me know if I should change anything about it.

 

[russian/sulcata/tortoise]

welcome to the forum!
1. spring mix is a good mixture of lettuces you can give, but but a large part of his diet should be non toxic weeds. fruits should be fed rarely like 1 strawberry a year.

2.yes it is normal for russians claws to be long but if you are concerned you can post a pic of them.

3.lol russian torts poops should be solid not runny and his urine should be like cottage cheese(ask another member about this question)

4. adult russian torts do fine in 50% humidity and they should be soaked in luke warm water a couple times a week.

5.if i find one of my torts on there back immediately turn them over because i don't know how long its been like that. but if i see it flip i let it get over by its self and if it can't i will help.

6. poop and dirt usually gets off my torts in there soaks.

7. you should always provide a cuttle bone in your torts enclosure because he will know when he needs calcium. you don't really need to sprinkle calcium on his food daily, only do it around once a every one to two weeks.

8. just bring you russian outside to run around and get natural sun light. by the way your enclosure is way to small, it should be around 10 times bigger than it is now.

9. lol i have no idea how to make a tort leash.

10. no idea about dressing up torts.

11. yes the light should be on around 12 hours a day but tortoises need to sleep in the dark. the basking stot shout be around 95 and the cool side should be around 70.

also your water bowl needs to be big enough for your tort to find his entire body in and the cage needs a major increase. read this entire care sheet! you will not get lost! http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Welcome. You're in very good hands.

 

[lismar79]

Agree with the above.
And to add to store greens: endive, escrole, kale, dandelion greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, raddichio, collard greens. Variety is key. Inwould also caution about letting him walk on your floor. Cat hair gets on everything and if eaten it could be a problem. You are better off to get a bigger enclosure for Tom so he has more room and safer for him. You have a lot of items that could make him flip over easy, again a bigger space would help here.

 

[Yvonne G]

Welcome to the Forum!

Your enclosure is way too small for a full grown Russian tortoise, and Tom is full grown. Also, you need a waterer that is big enough for his body to fit into.

You said to not link you to other sites, so I'll copy/paste our care sheet, which was written by our member - Tom:

Russian tortoises have great personalities, are very hardy, tolerate a wide variety of enclosure parameters, stay small, and are generally a good "starter" tortoise in my opinion. Here is how I like to set them up:

Indoor Enclosure type and size:
Most people want to know the minimum size enclosure that they can keep their tortoise in. Instead, I say figure out the maximum! Russians are a very active species and wild ones cover a lot of ground in very large territories. Any normal tub or tank is going to be too small for an adult. GO BIG! I like a minimum of a 4x8' table for an adult. Babies are fine in 40-100 gallon tanks or tubs. Adults do well in open topped tables. I like a damp, natural substrate that they can dig into. Plain soil with no guano, perlite or other additives, orchid bark, cypress mulch and coco coir all work. These substrates can be bought in bulk at most hardware or garden centers at a tremendous savings over pet store prices. Regular dirt from your yard will work too, if its of a suitable composition. I don't like to use sand in any amount for Russians, or any other tortoise species. It can be a skin and eye irritant and an impaction risk. Damp substrate will help to maintain moderate humidity and allow them to dig in and create their own little microclimate. I also like to offer a humid hide box for them to sleep in and retreat to. This will really help to maintain hydration and good shell growth in an open topped table. For babies I like to use large tubs or tanks and partially cover the top to maintain 50-70% humidity. I also offer a humid hide and my substrate of choice for babies is about 3-4" of damp coco coir. I hand pack it down to reduce the messiness. I don't worry about what the humidity level is for adults, AS LONG AS they have a damp substrate that they can dig into and a humid hide to retreat to. All russians should have water available and I like to use appropriately sized terra cotta plant saucers sunk into the substrate for this purpose. They are shallow, low sided and offer good traction to wet tortoise feet. This type of bowl greatly reduces the chances of your tortoise "high-centering" or tipping over when entering or exiting the water dish. I use 4" saucers for babies and 12-14" ones for adults. Here are a couple of my indoor baby enclosures. Keep in mind that my area has very low humidity. These are somewhat plain, but functional:

Outdoor enclosures:
Again the bigger the better. Babies do fine in kiddie pools or 4x8' covered brick pens. Planter boxes with wire lids can work well too. There are a lot of examples of good ways to do this here on the forum. Here are two ways I have done it:
http://tortoiseforum.org/thread-14680.html
http://tortoiseforum.org/thread-30683.html
Outside time is VERY beneficial, but there are some dangers to be aware of:
1. Escape.
Russians are very good climbers, diggers and all around escape artists. Design and build your enclosure accordingly.
2. Heat.
Guess what? The sun is very HOT! Make sure they have adequate shade at all times, or even better, build an underground retreat for them. Dig out a section of dirt and place a flower pot or piece of plywood with 2x4 sides and a back in the hole. Make a nice gently sloping ramp in the dirt for them and then pile lots of dirt on top of the shelter. On hot dry summer days, I will even pour a cup of water down there to give them some evaporative cooling. My dirt covered plywood shelters stay 85-90 degrees, even on 100+ degree days. Laying wood or something opaque on top of the wire cover of your enclosure is usually not going to be adequate. It still gets too hot under it. You need deep over head shade like from a tree, bushes or even an umbrella.
3. Predation.
Small tortoises can be mauled, eaten or stolen by whole host of predators, including your loving family dog. Please take proper precautions for your area and situation. Chicken wire will not stop most predators, but hardware cloth or welded wire will.
4. Dehydration.
If you live in a hot dry area, your enclosure has dry substrate, and you don't have a humid underground retreat of some sort, dehydration is a real danger. Make sure your tortoise has an appropriate shallow water bowl. The bowl must be somewhere shady so it doesn't overheat, and you must be sure that your tortoise is actually drinking from it. There are a wide variety of reasons why a tortoise might choose to not use its water bowl. Because of all these factors, I think it is a good idea to soak them in a warm shallow tub of water once or twice a week for adults, more for babies. If your tortoise is drinking on its own and didn't need to be soaked, it will harm nothing, and it will still give you a good opportunity to look them over and make sure all is good.

Here is where I currently sun my babies. It does not have good over head shade, but it does have underground retreats. I monitor temps with remote probes very carefully.

Here is the inside showing the hide and the babies. This pic was taken right after I finished making the hide. I have since added the water dishes, more furniture and decorations.

I do NOT recommend letting your russian tortoise outside to run around without a proper enclosure. Many have been lost that way.



Heating and lighting:
If your tortoise gets regular sunshine for most of the year, you do not need any artificial indoor UV. An hour outside a couple of times a week is enough to meet their UV needs, but more is better. If your tortoise must live inside all the time, then I recommend long tube style florescent UV lights or mercury vapor bulbs. No reason you can't use both. Since my Russians do get sunshine all year, I just use 65 watt incandescent flood bulbs from the hardware store to meet my heating needs. I hang my fixture over one end of the enclosure and raise or lower it to get a basking spot of around 100. I hang my lights over a flat piece of slate or sandstone, which spreads the heat out a bit and allows them to get some safe belly heat while they bask. This can be used in conjunction with a long florescent UV tube, if needed. I don't use any other heat for Russians, and I let the temperature of the rest of the enclosure fade to room temp away from the single heat source. In most cases night heat for Russians is not necessary. Night temps in the 60s are fine as long as they can warm up the next day. If your Russian is trying to hibernate as fall approaches and you don't want it to, upping your temps (including the night temps), lengthening the days on your light timer and brightening the enclosure with more lights, are all ways to help convince them to stay up. For most Russian tortoises of any age, its really that simple. Put a 95-100 degree basking spot on one end for 12-14 hours a day and that's it.

Soaking:
Some tortoises need it. Some don't. None of them are harmed by it. I recommend babies be soaked several times a week. I like to taper it off as they gain size. Some people choose not to soak their Russian tortoises. This is fine IF you have an established adult tortoise who is comfortable in its environment, your enclosure is very well designed with many microclimates available, your humidity is adequate in your area, and a suitable water source is available and obviously used regularly. Are YOU sure you meet all those criterion? If you are not 100% sure, then there is no harm in soaking your tortoise once or twice a week. I live in a very dry area. We have hot temps and single digit humidity most of the year. Most of my tortoises have humid underground retreats, but I still soak them once or twice a week depending on the weather. I like to use opaque tubs and warm water about a third of the way up the shell for 20-30 minutes. Here is soaking time at my place:

Diet:
Russian tortoises need broadleaf weeds. You will need to learn about the weeds near you and which ones are okay to feed or not. Pics can be posted here on the forum in the "Plant ID" section, or you can take samples to a local nursery. Look for dandelion, sow thistle, mallow, filaree, hawksbit, and many more. If you are not 100% sure that your source is free of pesticides and other chemicals, don't feed anything from there.
You can grow your own food too. Here is one of my favorites: http://www.tortoisesupply.com/TestudoMix
I also get lots of seeds here: http://www.groworganic.com
If you must use grocery store foods I like to favor spring mix, endive and escarole heavily. Also add in carrot tops, cilantro, mustard, turnip and collard greens, and lots of other leafy greens.
It is a good idea to add a product called "Salad Style" to grocery store greens to add some fiber: http://www.tortoisesupply.com/salad-style-food-topper/
This is a new food topper and I like it a lot so far: http://www.tortoisesupply.com/HerbalHay
You can also feed them grape, mulberry and hibiscus leaves, tender young spineless opuntia cactus pads, Mazuri tortoise chow and ZooMed Grassland tortoise food. Alternating and mixing up any of these foods will give your russian a good diet and meet its nutritional needs.

Supplements:
I like to have cuttle bone available for them to munch on at will. I also sprinkle some "MinerAll" on the babies food a couple of times a week and a reptile vitamin supplement once a week. I don't think adult males need any supplementation if they are getting a good varied diet, but I like to supplement egg laying females and babies with a pinch of calcium carbonate powder once or twice a week. I usually use either the ZooMed or RepCal brands.

Hibernation:
This is a controversial subject that deserves its own thread. Some people choose to do it, and some don't. If you do it, spend some time learning all about it first, and try to find a "mentor" who has experience successfully hibernating Russian tortoises themselves. If you don't do it, make sure your temps and lighting are all set up and adjusted appropriately for the season. Different people will have to make adjustments depending on where in the country they live and how the weather is at any given time, whether hibernating or not.

What about "friends"?:
Russian tortoise are a very scrappy, combative, territorial species. They do not generally want or need any cage mates and they do not get "lonely". They do best alone. Pairs almost never work for very long, regardless of sexes or ages. Groups can sometimes be maintained with careful observation and caution. Usually males are the bullies, but females will often get into the fray too with this species. Babies will usually get a long in groups, and adults will usually be okay with one male and several females. Very large outdoor enclosures with lots of sight barriers and hiding places usually help, but do not guarantee success. There are many forum members that will tell you how they've had to separate individuals out of their groups, both male and female, that refused to get along with others. It happens. Basically, if you decide to keep more than one russian, have a plan to separate them at any time. Don't wanna maintain two or three enclosures? Then don't buy more than one russian.


This care sheet is intended to offer helpful guidelines and share my experiences with Russians over the years. They are a very adaptable species and will tolerate all sorts of care regimes. Every enclosure and every area is different and each enclosure will require some "fine tuning" to get things just right. It is my hope that typing all of this out will help someone successfully set up their first russian enclosure or improve their existing one, and better the life of russian tortoises in general.

 

[Yellow Turtle01]

Welcome to TFO!
(Yvonne has got you pretty much covered)

That enclosure is too small! Adult russians need at least 4x6' of space! They may seem small, but they love to wander.
He needs a bigger water dish. Tortoises don't just drink, they soak, they submerge themselves to keep hydrated and to cool off. Terra cotta plant saucers work great! It also looks to me like he needs a bit more substrate... russians love to dig.

1. Ditch that diet! Romaine is mostly water and has very little nutritional value. Treats are okay, but not often! Russian tortoises are broad leaf grazers, and like weeds like plantain and dandelion. Do you have a chemical free yard to pick food from?
If not, seed mixes are incredibly easy to grow and offer a variety of yumyums! TortoiseSupply has some nice ones.
http://russiantortoise.net/edible_plants.htm
2. Russian torts have longer nails. It's totally natural. If you feel they are too long, flat stones (slates) work GREAT to keep nails filed.
3. White in poop is normal. It's called urates, and most torts and turtles have them. They should be creamy, like toothpaste, never dry and gritty! Lots of pee is fine Poop should be solid, nut liquid like and drippy. Green and brown is fine.
4. Adult russians need around 60-80% humidity. I keep mine at 70%. That open top will never hold anything in! It's best to cover at least part of an open topped enclosure up. Keep the substrate moist, not wet, but 'damp'... this will help immensely. Once a week is not enough! I soak mine every other day, just to help him grow smoothly. 15mins is great.
5. Tortoises can die if they are on their back too long under a hot light. Their organs get crushed, and they get exhausted. Your log looks to be a big flip hazard, but more substare along the edges will help a little (along with a bigger table!) If he doesn't right himself quickly, help him up
6. A toothbrush isn't need, you can just use your hands, but if you do use one, be very gentle, not rough. Soaking will help him stay clean.
7. I use a cuttlebone for everyone! Their interest varies, but they always go to eat it when they feel like they need calcium. It depends. My russian's can last for weeks sometimes! Flavors aren't necessary, he'll eat it if he needs calcium. (plus, cuttlebones help trim up beaks)
8. LOL. Your cats carry salmonella too. Even you do! Getting salmonella from a reptile can happen, but I could also catch it from you too...
The salmonella myth began when baby turtles were kept in such terrible conditions they died before they turned 1. They were kept dirty, and salmonella thrived in such dirty conditions! But now that we know better, sallmoalla is rare to catch from reptiles as long as they're clean. Still, Please always practice safe hygiene! Roaming he house is not a great idea! There are pathogens he can catch, things he can eat and get sick off of... tortoises are curious, and bad things can happen!
My cats couldn't care less about most of the turtles/torts here, but please be safe. There are horror stories involving beloved pets and tortoises! He'd be fine indoors all winter... if he had a bigger table... Plenty of safe, warm, wander room (AKA, tort table!) is a must!
9. What? Tortoises don't need leashes He can go outside, and it;s totally recommended, but leashes won't be the way to do it. Take him for a walk, but unless you are going to watch him every single second, he'll need a pen. Tortoises can get lost when owners look away!
Pens are simple, and they are many ideas here! They allow grazing, and fresh air, plus real UVB.
10. Okayyyy... I don't dress up my torts. Undeniably, they'd be cute, but what is there to gain? IMHO!
In the summer when my russian goes outdoors, his pen is thick with weeds and I haven't trimmed it, so it's hard to fine him under all that in a 10x6 area... So, I made a tiny, bright neon flower that I tie to his shell. It's tiny, so it's doesn't block sun and air, but it's secure and bright enough that I find him quite easily! Normally? I wouldn't. But that's to you!
11. All lights need to go off for about 12-14 hours a day to allow rest, and a natural cycle. I have a timer come one at 8 and go off at 9, and it works for all my lights. Nighttime temps can go to 60-65 for a russian, they're very tolerant, but 95 is bit toasty! Try 90. russians need a spot of at least 85 to digest, so just a little lower would be great. The other side is fine, it's important to have a cooler sot for him to thermoregulate.
Last but not least (AT ALL) PLEASE get him something bigger! You an even easliy make something. A cheap housing option that's big are Christmas tree storage tubs... plus it that time of year!

 

[flimsybox]

Thank you guys SO much! I switched the food and water bowls around so he can soak in the big black one, and eat from the blue and white one. I found a bookshelf in my garage, and took out the shelves to create a larger container. I think my mom is at the store right now, getting a variety of greens, and we've talked about getting a cuttlebone from the petstore. Let me know if I improved things enough. Here is an update to his caging:

 

[flimsybox]

I forgot to mention that I also have a mist lamp, and I could potentially use that for humidity since I don't have a lid to his container.

 

[Yellow Turtle01]

Thank you guys SO much! I switched the food and water bowls around so he can soak in the big black one, and eat from the blue and white one. I found a bookshelf in my garage, and took out the shelves to create a larger container. I think my mom is at the store right now, getting a variety of greens, and we've talked about getting a cuttlebone from the petstore. Let me know if I improved things enough. Here is an update to his caging:

Bookshelves are perfect. You may want to line it with a clear sower curtain (I spray mine with waterproofer) so the damp dirt won't affect anything!
I'm unable to see you pic, could you try again? (I hate it wen that happens! ) That's sounds great. I bet he'll be real happy about that!

 

[Yellow Turtle01]

I forgot to mention that I also have a mist lamp, and I could potentially use that for humidity since I don't have a lid to his container.

Hmmm... you may have to test this, I'm not sure how much moisture one of those puts out!

 

[russian/sulcata/tortoise]

in my opinion the cage is still to small.

 

[johnsonnboswell]

Get the cuttlebone. You can probably find one at the grocery store packaged for birds. Same thing.

You can water the substrate. Just pour it in. Mist takes too long & doesn't penetrate to the bottom where it's needed.

 

[flimsybox]

My dad and I are going to get a tub from a store that is large enough for him. 10 times his length, 5 times his width, and 3 times his height. Maybe even bigger if I can figure out a spot to put it in my room lol. I might have to move some furniture around. My mist lamp pours off a lot of mist, and I feel that it would stay above the surface, and I would also use the spray bottle to lightly dampen the substrate. I'm going to get a hygrometer and a cuttlebone this afternoon, too, if I can convince my dad to take me to the pet store.

I saw someone on youtube using a fog machine to create a humid environment. I'd let the mist in my mist lamp spill over into the enclosure, and pile in it.

Bookshelves are perfect. You may want to line it with a clear sower curtain (I spray mine with waterproofer) so the damp dirt won't affect anything!
I'm unable to see you pic, could you try again? (I hate it wen that happens! ) That's sounds great. I bet he'll be real happy about that!

Here's the link to the picture: http://graeskies.deviantart.com/art/Updated-enclosure-499464707

 

[Yellow Turtle01]

My dad and I are going to get a tub from a store that is large enough for him. 10 times his length, 5 times his width, and 3 times his height. Maybe even bigger if I can figure out a spot to put it in my room lol. I might have to move some furniture around. My mist lamp pours off a lot of mist, and I feel that it would stay above the surface, and I would also use the spray bottle to lightly dampen the substrate. I'm going to get a hygrometer and a cuttlebone this afternoon, too, if I can convince my dad to take me to the pet store.

I saw someone on youtube using a fog machine to create a humid environment. I'd let the mist in my mist lamp spill over into the enclosure, and pile in it.


Here's the link to the picture: http://graeskies.deviantart.com/art/Updated-enclosure-499464707

That shouldn't be how enclosures are measured.I 'm sorry! Try a few feet (My current one is 3x5, and mr tort is 5'') in either direction Okay, let us know how much moisture it puts out! Having the substrate damp will really help!
Try to get your hands on a digital one, the disk thermometers aren't that accurate. They sell those at the pet store too
Cuttlebone will be great!

 

[flimsybox]

That shouldn't be how enclosures are measured.I 'm sorry! Try a few feet (My current one is 3x5, and mr tort is 5'') in either direction Okay, let us know how much moisture it puts out! Having the substrate damp will really help!
Try to get your hands on a digital one, the disk thermometers aren't that accurate. They sell those at the pet store too
Cuttlebone will be great!

I could have sworn one of the posts on this forum said those measurements. good thing we haven't gone to the store yet. yeesh this is soooo confusing! 3ft by 5ft is really big. I'm definitely going to have to move furniture around.

 

[Yellow Turtle01]

I could have sworn one of the posts on this forum said those measurements. good thing we haven't gone to the store yet. yeesh this is soooo confusing! 3ft by 5ft is really big. I'm definitely going to have to move furniture around.

I'm sorry. There is a lot of info out there about tortoise and turtles, and since many developments in correct care have been made only recently, a lot of it's wrong.
I'm really glad you found TFO, though, because it's all about little guys like yours here! Do you have desk? It's easy to set a table on something!

 

[flimsybox]

I'm sorry. There is a lot of info out there about tortoise and turtles, and since many developments in correct care have been made only recently, a lot of it's wrong.
I'm really glad you found TFO, though, because it's all about little guys like yours here! Do you have desk? It's easy to set a table on something!

I don't have a desk. :s I have a nightstand, but that's not big enough. My other furniture are different heights and too narrow. I'll have to set the new enclosure on boxes. lol. I have no problem with that though, as Tom's staying in my room. I'd like for him to be next to my bed since that's where I am most of the time, and I'd like to have him by my side as much as I can.

 

[flimsybox]

I'm sorry. There is a lot of info out there about tortoise and turtles, and since many developments in correct care have been made only recently, a lot of it's wrong.
I'm really glad you found TFO, though, because it's all about little guys like yours here! Do you have desk? It's easy to set a table on something!

Oh I was also wondering how would I combine two tubs into an L shaped enclosure? I was thinking of cutting holes in the sides and using duct tape to seal it off and round the plastic edges so Tom doesn't get cut. Do you think that would work?

 

[Yellow Turtle01]

Oh I was also wondering how would I combine two tubs into an L shaped enclosure? I was thinking of cutting holes in the sides and using duct tape to seal it off and round the plastic edges so Tom doesn't get cut. Do you think that would work?

Definitely! It's a super easy way to combine enclosures for a bigger area Plus, since tubs come with lids, it'll be easier to hold humility, if you cover one section up!

 

[flimsybox]

Definitely! It's a super easy way to combine enclosures for a bigger area Plus, since tubs come with lids, it'll be easier to hold humility, if you cover one section up!

Awesome! I'm definitely going to do that. I might even get THREE tubs xD I would love to give Tom the biggest space possible. The only thing is, I have to get enough substrate to fill it all. Oh, and more thermometers, hygrometers, hides, etc.