My setup for Leopard Tortoise arriving tomorrow

[cesktw0]

I just wanted to post my setup because I am getting my new 2 month old leopard tortoise tomorrow morning and want constructive feedback. I am using a Rubbermaid tube, bedding is coco coir (slightly moist), I have random clean rocks for decor, a piece of slate rock for basking, a shallow water dish, for his hide spot (I took a plastic container and cut a hole in it and covered it with vines and fake plants for a humid hide spot) I have a 100 watt Powersun for 12hr of heat during the day and a 100 watt ceramic heat emitter for nighttime temps. I am using my temp gun to gauge the temperature in the cage to see how far away I need to position the lighting. (95-100 basking spot and 75-80 rest of setup) I have a question......should I keep the piece of slate rock in the cage halfway under the basking spot, or will it get too hot for the baby leo to stand on? I don't know if he would instinctively know to get off if it if it gets too hot. I just figured he could lay on it to heat himself up if need be, or would it act like a heated rock which are deadly for reptiles and burn him. Thank you in advance for your help with my setup. I want a healthy happy leopard tortoise free of pyramiding and illnesses. Also I got calcium to dust his food with every third day without D3 since he has a UVB bulb, I read that it can be deadly if you supplement a tortoise with too much D3 is this true? I will be misting his cage during the day and soaking him twice daily. Thanks
Chelsea (new tortoise owner)

 

[theresal]

Its great that you have a setup before you get your new baby!! It looks like you have put a lot of thought into it. A few things I would do would before adding your new tort. I would take most of the extra rocks out of the enclosure to reduce flip over hazards and anything else that your tort could stumble on. One of the worst things I have heard from new tort owners is losing a baby because it flipped over. Remember with babies that less is more. Also if you are concerned about the temperature of the flat rock, leave the basking light on as you will when you have your tortoise and check the rock surface with your temp gun at several times during the day. (Of course, before adding your new tortoise.) While you are at it, check the temp of the other side to make sure that there is a good gradient so the tort can warm up or cool off as necessary. Also, you may want to sink the dish to be level with the substrate if it is not already as I couldn't really tell from the pictures. That should help the baby get in and out easier. I hope this helps and good luck with your new addition!!

 

[Neal]

How many inches above the slate rock is the UVB bulb. Maybe it's just the angel of the picture, but it looks very low. What are you using to read the temperature?

One thing that concerns me is your dial timer. I had that same exact one and it pooped out on me. It was connected to my CHE and I didn't know it went out for a few days, and my tortoises became sick. The digital timers are much more reliable, in my experience and opinion.

Are you going to switch out the UVB for the CHE at nightime?

 

[wellington]

Congrats on the arrival of your new leopard. First thing when you get him is to give him a nice warm soak. Then put him in his enclosure with food and leave him be for at least the day. Personally, I would bump up the cool side to be no lower then 80, with a humidity of 80. Check out Toms great threads below in my post. Even the ones on sulcatas will explain a lot of the temps and humidity for raising a healthy, smooth tortoise. I would also give your tort calcium twice a week with D3 or at least once a week with the D3. If they are in the sun then they don't need it. However, no bulb is as good as the sun, and therefor need the added d3. Once or twice a week, just a pinch, will not be too much.

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Couple more things. Cover 1/2 to 3/4 of the enclosure and you will be able to keep humidity up a lot easier. Also, using the clamp that's on the light is not a good thing. They have been known to fall apart or fall and either burn the tortoise or start a fire. Better to hand it using something else. If you didn't get a cuttle bone, that's another good thing to put in with your tort.

 

[cesktw0]

I will be switching out the UV bulb with a CHE at night. I think I am going to take back the calcium powder I got and get the calcium powder with the D3 like you mentioned. I am having trouble with the lighting. I positioned the PowerSun bulb close to the substrate because I am not getting the temps I need for the basking spot. The 100 watt PowerSun is now 8 inches from the substrate and the basking spot is still only 92 degrees, I cannot understand what is wrong. I had a power sun in the past and NEVER had trouble with getting my backing spot to the temp I needed. HELP ME! I even have half the cage covered to bring up the temp, the rest of the cage is only 67 degrees. Thank goodness my leopard is not coming until tomorrow.

 

[wellington]

I posted on your other thread about getting heat up. Gave a few options. I do believe though that 8 in he's is too lclose to the tort. I believe there is a height listed on the box.

 

[cesktw0]

So you can actually put a cuttlebone in with a leo and they will eat it?

 

[wellington]

So you can actually put a cuttlebone in with a leo and they will eat it?

Yes, good calcium source. They can help themselves when they feel they need more. Still give them the pinch of d3 calcium couple times a week.

 

[Neal]

What are you using to read the temperature?

Bump

 

[wellington]

What are you using to read the temperature?

Bump

Said using a temp gun.

 

[Neal]

What are you using to read the temperature?

Bump

Said using a temp gun.

Thanks, I always miss the little details.

 

[wellington]

What are you using to read the temperature?

Bump

Said using a temp gun.

Thanks, I always miss the little details.

No problem, been there and done that, a lot

 

[StephanieWrong]

Looks great! Everyone else had great suggestions so I won't repeat them...The one thing I would do is create different levels with the soil- make one end of the enclosure higher (I always do this to my basking spot) and one end of the enclosure lower (I put the food/water at this end). This helped me maintain the temperatures which can be difficult in a small space. For example, my cool dry hide is 76-78 at the lower end while my ambient air temps are 81-83 and the basking spot is 94-95 at the highest spot. I did this for my hatchling Sri Lankan Star to make sure she was getting enough exercise and using her hind legs as they would in the wild. My vet recommended I do this because it simulates their natural habitat. Not only is it more visually pleasing but I know my tort is getting exercise!