New-to-me Red Footed Tortoise Pyramiding

[MrK_WMS]

I am inheriting a 5 year old red footed tortoise from a teacher that is moving. I am new to tortoise ownership, but have been doing lots of research. It looks to have some (bad?) pyramiding. What can be done to mitigate this as I take over ownership so that it doesn't get worse. I do know that there wasn't a UVB lamp in his enclosure, so I plan to add that, but it has always lived outside during summers. But any other advice would be welcomed! I don't currently have possession of him yet, but will in about 2 weeks. Thanks! (picture below)

 

[wellington]

RF need high humidity 80% and that's what caused the pyramidimg, no or low humidity.
Wet the bottom layer of substrate by pouring warm water into corners. This will help keep the top layer dry it just damp as RF are prone to shell rot.
If you can get her outside 3-4 times a week for sun, she doesn't need indoor uvb.

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Agree all with the above. I'm looking at her head and legs on photo - it's much like a humidity issue. Redfoots have vivid coloring of head and leg scales when kept in proper conditions. And head scales have slightly lifted edges, this happens when they are too dry.

She is kept on cypress mulch as seen on photo, with that kind of substrate and covered enclosure it's relatively easy to get high humidity levels.

Winter temperatures, I'm afraid are too low to let her roam outside so a UVB lamp might be necessary. Be sure to get the correct type - it's straight flourescent tube, T5 HO. Might be Arcadia Forest 10% / Desert 13% or ZooMed ReptiSun 5.0/10.0 (depends on lamp mounting height).

If you plan to keep her in her current enclosure some photos would help to make an advice on improvements.

 

[MrK_WMS]

RF need high humidity 80% and that's what caused the pyramidimg, no or low humidity.
Wet the bottom layer of substrate by pouring warm water into corners. This will help keep the top layer dry it just damp as RF are prone to shell rot.
If you can get her outside 3-4 times a week for sun, she doesn't need indoor uvb.

Would by a window be a good replacement instead of a light? Wouldn't be a ton of direct light, but just general sunlight all day. As well as some areas of the enclosure that would be out of the light.

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Glass, unfortunately filters out all UVB, so this won't help UVB lamp needs to be on for 3-4 hours a day, so it could last up to 2 years (depends on lamp vendor and access to outdoors - even 15 minutes, 3-4 times a week should be sufficient to provide enough UVB)
For ambient lightning it's fine (you won't need LED lights and incandescent lamps in the enclosure)

 

[MrK_WMS]

Agree all with the above. I'm looking at her head and legs on photo - it's much like a humidity issue. Redfoots have vivid coloring of head and leg scales when kept in proper conditions. And head scales have slightly lifted edges, this happens when they are too dry.

She is kept on cypress mulch as seen on photo, with that kind of substrate and covered enclosure it's relatively easy to get high humidity levels.

Winter temperatures, I'm afraid are too low to let her roam outside so a UVB lamp might be necessary. Be sure to get the correct type - it's straight flourescent tube, T5 HO. Might be Arcadia Forest 10% / Desert 13% or ZooMed ReptiSun 5.0/10.0 (depends on lamp mounting height).

If you plan to keep her in her current enclosure some photos would help to make an advice on improvements.

Is there anything else I can do for his skin or with more humidity will it just heal on its own?

Also, as far as the substrate, I was planning on continuing to use cyprus mulch, but it is not an covered enclosure. Will that be able to keep the humidity up or should I try a different substrate?

 

[TammyJ]

I think this little Redfoot tortoise is badly in need of remedial action. It looks almost stunted, for five years old, and has been kept wrong for a long time. Proper lighting and diet are needed right now, but a closed chamber enclosure is essential to maintain the humidity level necessary for the recovery process to get going now. @ZEROPILOT

 

[MrK_WMS]

I think this little Redfoot tortoise is badly in need of remedial action. It looks almost stunted, for five years old, and has been kept wrong for a long time. Proper lighting and diet are needed right now, but a closed chamber enclosure is essential to maintain the humidity level necessary for the recovery process to get going now. @ZEROPILOT

Do you have any suggestions or links for enclosed tables?

 

[TammyJ]

A lot of folks on this site have success with using portable greenhouses. I am pretty hopeless at navigating and linking, so @wellington please!

 

[ZEROPILOT]

I'll try to respond later.
Yesterday was eye injection day. And I can't see.

 

[MrK_WMS]

I think this little Redfoot tortoise is badly in need of remedial action. It looks almost stunted, for five years old, and has been kept wrong for a long time. Proper lighting and diet are needed right now, but a closed chamber enclosure is essential to maintain the humidity level necessary for the recovery process to get going now. @ZEROPILOT

Also, what specific suggestions do you have for diet? I see tons of different information online and its a little bit overwhelming. He might be a bit over fed as the owner said he keeps food in there all the time. I believe most of his diet also consists of pellets, along with some veggies. Would one of those tortoise calcium blocks be beneficial?

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Is there anything else I can do for his skin or with more humidity will it just heal on its own?

Also, as far as the substrate, I was planning on continuing to use cyprus mulch, but it is not an covered enclosure. Will that be able to keep the humidity up or should I try a different substrate?

1. Daily "soaks" in a lukewarm (around 87F) water, start slowly (1-2 minutes, then increase time up to 15 minutes). Then make it a weekly routine. Pour water in a high, opaque container (so she/he could not climb out). Water level - up to the point where top and bottom shell join. For longer soaks water needs to be warm all the time, so two containers are handy. It will try to climb out, probably - don't worry. Also it's usual for them to poo while bathing - don't worry.

2. With open top enclosure there are no chances to keep humidity 80-90% with any substrate (unless you are in Florida). So we need to think how to cover it. Overall photo and enclosure height could help. Greenhouse tents mentioned above is an easy way to make covered enclosure, but it could be just a sheet of plastic, for example. You can look at enclosures by Animal Plastics, as an example of "properly built" closed chamber (and on this forum there some incredible PVC enclosures as well). Popular Aituvin enclosures are not suitable.

Right now no need to rush and buy stuff - just need to do the required minimum and then carefully plan next steps.

 

[MrK_WMS]

1. Daily "soaks" in a lukewarm (around 87F) water, start slowly (1-2 minutes, then increase time up to 15 minutes). Then make it a weekly routine. Pour water in a high, opaque container (so she/he could not climb out). Water level - up to the point where top and bottom shell join. For longer soaks water needs to be warm all the time, so two containers are handy. It will try to climb out, probably - don't worry. Also it's usual for them to poo while bathing - don't worry.

2. With open top enclosure there are no chances to keep humidity 80-90% with any substrate (unless you are in Florida). So we need to think how to cover it. Overall photo and enclosure height could help. Greenhouse tents mentioned above is an easy way to make covered enclosure, but it could be just a sheet of plastic, for example. You can look at enclosures by Animal Plastics, as an example of "properly built" closed chamber (and on this forum there some incredible PVC enclosures as well). Popular Aituvin enclosures are not suitable.

Right now no need to rush and buy stuff - just need to do the required minimum and then carefully plan next steps.

Thank you! The last comment is very helpful. I was starting to get a little overwhelmed! I really want to give this little tortoise some help and a good life! The previous owner is a great person, I just don't think they did much research when they got it.

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Also, what specific suggestions do you have for diet? I see tons of different information online and its a little bit overwhelming. He might be a bit over fed as the owner said he keeps food in there all the time. I believe most of his diet also consists of pellets, along with some veggies. Would one of those tortoise calcium blocks be beneficial?

It doesn't look obese to me. Feeding everyday and keeping food available all day are correct routines. Tortoise are opportunistic eaters and usually know when to eat and how much to eat. However, this works with proper diet and enough exercise (walking).

Calcium blocks or cuttlefish bone are nice to have, but not ultimately necessary. However, sprinkling calcium supplement (powder) over food once a week is a right thing to do.

Diet for red-foots is relatively easy as they eat almost any non-processed food. Overall proportions are 40-60% fruit (like papaya, mango, banana, berries), 40-60% greens (vegetables, aragula, kale, endive, hibiscus and mulberry leaves, opuntia pads etc.) and 10-20% protein (mushrooms, invertebrates, boiled low-fat meat and so). From week to week you can change proportions a bit. Varying diet is very important. While papaya, hibiscus leaves and white mushrooms are great foods, but feeding them all the time is not great.

Here you can find feeding plans, just to get started.

Omnivore Diet - Tortoise Library

There are many ways to put the basic nutrition ideas into place for omnivorous turtles and tortoises (and you should probably read that section before this one). Some typical plans will be listed here but be sure to check the ‘Notes for Various Species’ section below to see how to adjust the...

tortoiselibrary.com

 

[MrK_WMS]

It doesn't look obese to me. Feeding everyday and keeping food available all day are correct routines. Tortoise are opportunistic eaters and usually know when to eat and how much to eat. However, this works with proper diet and enough exercise (walking).

Calcium blocks or cuttlefish bone are nice to have, but not ultimately necessary. However, sprinkling calcium supplement (powder) over food once a week is a right thing to do.

Diet for red-foots is relatively easy as they eat almost any non-processed food. Overall proportions are 40-60% fruit (like papaya, mango, banana, berries), 40-60% greens (vegetables, aragula, kale, endive, hibiscus and mulberry leaves, opuntia pads etc.) and 10-20% protein (mushrooms, invertebrates, boiled low-fat meat and so). From week to week you can change proportions a bit. Varying diet is very important. While papaya, hibiscus leaves and white mushrooms are great foods, but feeding them all the time is not great.

Here you can find feeding plans, just to get started.

Omnivore Diet - Tortoise Library

There are many ways to put the basic nutrition ideas into place for omnivorous turtles and tortoises (and you should probably read that section before this one). Some typical plans will be listed here but be sure to check the ‘Notes for Various Species’ section below to see how to adjust the...

tortoiselibrary.com

That's very helpful. He currently gets a lot of the (I think) Fulker's Tortoise diet. Should I cut that out or is that still okay in some quantity?

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Thank you! The last comment is very helpful. I was starting to get a little overwhelmed! I really want to give this little tortoise some help and a good life! The previous owner is a great person, I just don't think they did much research when they got it.

Oh yes, I understand what you feel (was in the same boat a year ago). It takes time to settle down all the information and to get things set up, once it's done - there will be pure joy of watching your tortoise thriving.

For the peace of mind, I would suggest to use this forum as a primary information source. While there is some (not a lot) outdated or debatable information here (some of the redfoot care sheets, sadly), at least you can ask a question and we will try to explain what and why.

Here is some useful links (these are long-reads, but worth reading):
1. https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/info-for-new-people-please-read-this-first.202363/
2. https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/redfoot-tortoise-care-sheet.175319/ (this is not "official" forum care sheet, but pretty accurate).

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

That's very helpful. He currently gets a lot of the (I think) Fulker's Tortoise diet. Should I cut that out or is that still okay in some quantity?

I would use it 1-2 times a week in a relatively sma ll amount (maybe two teaspoons a week) - think of it as of food supplement or sauce. It's high in plant protein (not the best one - soya beans mostly), but has high fiber (it's good) and some useful vitamins and minerals.

If your tortoise will readily eat fresh food, than you can cut off Fluker's immediately. If not - you'll have to mix a bit of the new food with pellets gradually increasing the amount.

 

[TammyJ]

Also, what specific suggestions do you have for diet? I see tons of different information online and its a little bit overwhelming. He might be a bit over fed as the owner said he keeps food in there all the time. I believe most of his diet also consists of pellets, along with some veggies. Would one of those tortoise calcium blocks be beneficial?

Redfoots can and do eat a huge variety of foods! Don't give any "pellets" without knowing what exactly it is. Stay with the information right here by experts like Zeropilot, and don't go all over the internet, it's not necessary and a LOT of it is outdated and just plain wrong. Fruit, greens, leaves like pumpkin and Hibiscus and the flowers, opuntia cactus, hard boiled egg in the shell cut in half, steamed chicken no salt, sardines in water, and on and on! You can leave a cuttlefish bone in her enclosure or grater some on her food. Feed a variety and just remove any leftovers at the end of the day. Grater any uncooked carrots, pumpkin or other hard food to prevent choking, which can happen. Daily long warm soaks.

 

[MrK_WMS]

I would use it 1-2 times a week in a relatively sma ll amount (maybe two teaspoons a week) - think of it as of food supplement or sauce. It's high in plant protein (not the best one - soya beans mostly), but has high fiber (it's good) and some useful vitamins and minerals.

If your tortoise will readily eat fresh food, than you can cut off Fluker's immediately. If not - you'll have to mix a bit of the new food with pellets gradually increasing the amount.

Could you help sex this tortoise for me? I just got it this morning. I was told it was a male, but seems it might be female?

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Could you help sex this tortoise for me? I just got it this morning. I was told it was a male, but seems it might be female?

Oh, that's where I'm lacking experience yet. I don't see "hourglass" shape here, however it's not the only and definitive sign. Tail looks short for a male. @Yvonne G or @ZEROPILOT could tell for sure.