Newbie, first day owner.

adamllewellyn

New Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2022
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Durham
I'm a newbie in the tortoise world, just acquired a ten month old red-footed tortoise,and I'm curious if the humidity should remain on overnight? Or whether I should turn the vivarium off at night to replicate cooler temperatures? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20220129_162747507.jpg
    PXL_20220129_162747507.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 13

Big Ron

Active Member
Tortoise Club
Joined
Dec 28, 2021
Messages
131
Location (City and/or State)
Florida
Welcome to the forum glad you joined :) ,someone will help with your question i don't know anything about vivariums
 

adamllewellyn

New Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2022
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Durham
Welcome to the forum glad you joined :) ,someone will help with your question i don't know anything about vivariums
Thanks! Yeah I'm just keeping it switched on at the moment, seen conflicting advice on Reddit threads and such so thought I'd come to a tortoise forum for reliable advice.
 

Lyn W

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
23,526
Location (City and/or State)
UK
Hi and welcome,
Can you post some pics of your whole set up and the lamps you are using to get good feedback and help.
Are you using a humidifier? They aren't usually recommended for most species because the water droplets can be inhaled and cause problems especially if the temps aren't right so humidity is provided via substrate. However I don't keep RF so I may be wrong.
There are several caresheets in this section but I don't know which is the most up to date.
@ZEROPILOT will be able to point you in the right direction of the right caresheet when he pops in. and tell you what temps and humidity levels should be . Do you have a hide for your tort - he looks a bit exposed in the pic.
 

adamllewellyn

New Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2022
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Durham
Hi and welcome,
Can you post some pics of your whole set up and the lamps you are using to get good feedback and help.
Are you using a humidifier? They aren't usually recommended for most species because the water droplets can be inhaled and cause problems especially if the temps aren't right so humidity is provided via substrate. However I don't keep RF so I may be wrong.
There are several caresheets in this section but I don't know which is the most up to date.
@ZEROPILOT will be able to point you in the right direction of the right caresheet when he pops in. and tell you what temps and humidity levels should be . Do you have a hide for your tort - he looks a bit exposed in the pic.
Hi, thanks for the response! It's night here and I don't want to turn the heat lamp on, so I'll post pictures of the boxes I got from the set-up recommended and an earlier pic I took of the vivarium.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20220129_223418874.jpg
    PXL_20220129_223418874.jpg
    687.3 KB · Views: 13
  • PXL_20220129_223313254.jpg
    PXL_20220129_223313254.jpg
    608.7 KB · Views: 13
  • PXL_20220129_223254097.jpg
    PXL_20220129_223254097.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 13
  • PXL_20220129_162805057.jpg
    PXL_20220129_162805057.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 14

adamllewellyn

New Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2022
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Durham
Hi, thanks for the response! It's night here and I don't want to turn the heat lamp on, so I'll post pictures of the boxes I got from the set-up recommended and an earlier pic I took of the vivarium.
I'll also add after this pic I've sunken the water tray into the substrate as it seemed a little too steep for my liking, could just have been paranoid but thought it would be a good idea.
 

Lyn W

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
23,526
Location (City and/or State)
UK
I don't know enough about RF to tell you if those are Ok but they'll help RF keepers to help you.
 

Lyn W

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
23,526
Location (City and/or State)
UK
I'll also add after this pic I've sunken the water tray into the substrate as it seemed a little too steep for my liking, could just have been paranoid but thought it would be a good idea.
Cheap terracotta plant saucers are probably most widely used, as they have good traction and gradual sloping sides which make it easier for a tort too get in and out. The dishes pet shops sell can be too steep and a drowning hazard if they tip back when getting out.
 

adamllewellyn

New Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2022
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Durham
Cheap terracotta plant saucers are probably most widely used, as they have good traction and gradual sloping sides which make it easier for a tort too get in and out. The dishes pet shops sell can be too steep and a drowning hazard if they tip back when getting out.
Thanks! I'll order one now and just keep the water shallow until it arrives.
 

ZEROPILOT

REDFOOT WRANGLER
Moderator
Tortoise Club
5 Year Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jul 16, 2014
Messages
29,070
Location (City and/or State)
South Eastern Florida (U.S.A.)/Rock Hill S.C.
Hello.
I'm sorry to pop in and start tossing bad news into the post. BUT...
Almost everything I saw or read is wrong
First off is lighting...You need a T5 HO linear strip florescent tube light. I use a 5.0. DO NOT BUY ANY UVB LIGHT SOURCE THAT SCREWS INTO A SOCKET. It looks like you have a T5. Is it an HO? I don't recognize that type. If it's a non HO it's not going to provide much UVB at any distance over a few inches. Especially if it has to pass through a screen.

Now for heat. You need to use a Ceramic Heat Emitter or CHE in a ceramic sockets reflector on a thermostat set to 82°.(The temp should be 80° to 88° 24/7) A CHE provides heat both night and day. Does not dry the carapace or the enclosure like that light in the photo and doesnt ad any more light. Redfoot do not like bright lights.

Humidity needs to be over 70% 24/7. The best way to accomplish this is to use Orchid bark as a substrate in a closed chamber enclosure. Add water into the corners of the substrate and it releases humidity as it evaporates. A closed chamber also holds in warmth. So it's the best way to house a Redfoot indoors.

OK. Heat 82° No nighttime drop. In a controlled environment we can eliminate that. And it's not required or recommended.
Humidity of over 70%. This takes time and tweaking to get just right. But making a semi sealed closed chamber enclosure helps tremendously.

Now the decor. Redfoot like to hide. But that half log is a flip over hazard. I'd partially bury the log so that it doesn't sit up so high and then scoop out the center with a gradual slope so that your baby can still hide inside of it.

What are you feeding?
What other questions do you have?
Did I forget anything?
 
Last edited:

adamllewellyn

New Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2022
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Durham
Hello.
I'm sorry to pop in and start tossing bad news into the post. BUT...
Almost everything I saw or read is wrong
First off is lighting...You need a T5 HO linear strip florescent tube light. I use a 5.0. DO NOT BUY ANY UVB LIGHT SOURCE THAT SCREWS INTO A SOCKET. It looks like you have a T5. Is it an HO? I don't recognize that type. If it's a non HO it's not going to provide much UVB at any distance over a few inches. Especially if it has to pass through a screen.

Now for heat. You need to use a Ceramic Heat Emitter or CHE in a ceramic sockets reflector on a thermostat set to 82°.(The temp should be 80° to 88° 24/7) A CHE provides heat both night and day. Does not dry the carapace or the enclosure like that light in the photo and doesnt ad any more light. Redfoot do not like bright lights.

Humidity needs to be over 70% 24/7. The best way to accomplish this is to use Orchid bark as a substrate in a closed chamber enclosure. Add water into the corners of the substrate and it releases humidity as it evaporates. A closed chamber also holds in warmth. So it's the best way to house a Redfoot indoors.

OK. Heat 82° No nighttime drop. In a controlled environment we can eliminate that. And it's not required or recommended.
Humidity of over 70%. This takes time and tweaking to get just right. But making a semi sealed closed chamber enclosure helps tremendously.

Now the decor. Redfoot like to hide. But that half log is a flip over hazard. I'd partially bury the log so that it doesn't sit up so high and then scoop out the center with a gradual slope so that your baby can still hide inside of it.

What are you feeding?
What other questions do you have?
Did I forget anything?
Hi! No need to apologize for giving me advice mate, I'm new at this so no doubt going to get things wrong, I've got a T5 tube light as well as an infrared heat projector, what is the best way to measure humidity levels? Only gauge I have is a Microclimate device for temperature. Thanks for the tip about the log, I've now sunken it into the substrate and scooped out the inside, but given your warning I'd like to purchase a better object for hiding if you have any recommendations? Diet wise I was told red foots are 80 percent herbivorous and 20 percentage carnivorous so I purchased lettuce, spinach and bananas, grapes as well as pinky mice which I was told they can eat once per week. In regards to my latter point, how long can you freeze pinky mice for before they're not suitable for consumption? Thanks for your help it's much appreciated.
 

adamllewellyn

New Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2022
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Durham
Hello.
I'm sorry to pop in and start tossing bad news into the post. BUT...
Almost everything I saw or read is wrong
First off is lighting...You need a T5 HO linear strip florescent tube light. I use a 5.0. DO NOT BUY ANY UVB LIGHT SOURCE THAT SCREWS INTO A SOCKET. It looks like you have a T5. Is it an HO? I don't recognize that type. If it's a non HO it's not going to provide much UVB at any distance over a few inches. Especially if it has to pass through a screen.

Now for heat. You need to use a Ceramic Heat Emitter or CHE in a ceramic sockets reflector on a thermostat set to 82°.(The temp should be 80° to 88° 24/7) A CHE provides heat both night and day. Does not dry the carapace or the enclosure like that light in the photo and doesnt ad any more light. Redfoot do not like bright lights.

Humidity needs to be over 70% 24/7. The best way to accomplish this is to use Orchid bark as a substrate in a closed chamber enclosure. Add water into the corners of the substrate and it releases humidity as it evaporates. A closed chamber also holds in warmth. So it's the best way to house a Redfoot indoors.

OK. Heat 82° No nighttime drop. In a controlled environment we can eliminate that. And it's not required or recommended.
Humidity of over 70%. This takes time and tweaking to get just right. But making a semi sealed closed chamber enclosure helps tremendously.

Now the decor. Redfoot like to hide. But that half log is a flip over hazard. I'd partially bury the log so that it doesn't sit up so high and then scoop out the center with a gradual slope so that your baby can still hide inside of it.

What are you feeding?
What other questions do you have?
Did I forget anything?
Hi! No need to apologize for giving me advice mate, I'm new at this so no doubt going to get things wrong, I've got a T5 tube light as well as an infrared heat projector, what is the best way to measure humidity levels? Only gauge I have is a Microclimate device for temperature. Thanks for the tip about the log, I've now sunken it into the substrate and scooped out the inside, but given your warning I'd like to purchase a better object for hiding if you have any recommendations? Diet wise I was told red foots are 80 percent herbivorous and 20 percentage carnivorous so I purchased lettuce, spinach and bananas, grapes as well as pinky mice which I was told they can eat once per week. In regards to my latter point, how long can you freeze pinky mice for before they're not suitable for consumption? Thanks for your help it's
Hi! No need to apologize for giving me advice mate, I'm new at this so no doubt going to get things wrong, I've got a T5 tube light as well as an infrared heat projector, what is the best way to measure humidity levels? Only gauge I have is a Microclimate device for temperature. Thanks for the tip about the log, I've now sunken it into the substrate and scooped out the inside, but given your warning I'd like to purchase a better object for hiding if you have any recommendations? Diet wise I was told red foots are 80 percent herbivorous and 20 percentage carnivorous so I purchased lettuce, spinach and bananas, grapes as well as pinky mice which I was told they can eat once per week. In regards to my latter point, how long can you freeze pinky mice for before they're not suitable for consumption? Thanks for your help it's much appreciated.
Also, the T5 is an eco unit so it's low output, apparently as I'm using a non-mesh Viv the owner said the UVI won't be reduced so it'll be suitable? Although I have no idea if he was right or just simply trying to avoid fitting a new one for me when I purchased lol.
 

Karen(pebbles)

Well-Known Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
May 14, 2021
Messages
1,038
Location (City and/or State)
Bristol Uk
hi and welcome to the forum, you're gonna love it here, so many experienced people willing to give you advice,
i have a hermanns, s/he's 2 years old now, i also keep him/her in a vivarium and have received so much advice from people here, here is some pics of my set up, hope this helps.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4289.PNG
    IMG_4289.PNG
    319.8 KB · Views: 3
  • IMG_4290.PNG
    IMG_4290.PNG
    199.5 KB · Views: 3
  • IMG_4287(Edited).jpg
    IMG_4287(Edited).jpg
    778.1 KB · Views: 3

Tim Carlisle

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Nov 13, 2017
Messages
2,618
Location (City and/or State)
Cincinnati, OH
You need a T5 HO linear strip florescent tube light. I use a 5.0.

Just curious here, but is the 5.0 the recommended output for an RF? I've only ever used the 10.0 or the 12.5 for my leo and sulcata. I assume that RF's need lower output due to being forest dwellers? If that's the case, I have a 5.0 tube new in box that I'd like to get rid of. Maybe I can find an RF owner near me to give it to. TIA
 

Karen(pebbles)

Well-Known Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
May 14, 2021
Messages
1,038
Location (City and/or State)
Bristol Uk
Just curious here, but is the 5.0 the recommended output for an RF? I've only ever used the 10.0 or the 12.5 for my leo and sulcata. I assume that RF's need lower output due to being forest dwellers? If that's the case, I have a 5.0 tube new in box that I'd like to get rid of. Maybe I can find an RF owner near me to give it to. TIA
i'm not really sure about other torts, this is what was recommended by one of the well known members here for my little hermanns sorry
 

ZEROPILOT

REDFOOT WRANGLER
Moderator
Tortoise Club
5 Year Member
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jul 16, 2014
Messages
29,070
Location (City and/or State)
South Eastern Florida (U.S.A.)/Rock Hill S.C.
Just curious here, but is the 5.0 the recommended output for an RF? I've only ever used the 10.0 or the 12.5 for my leo and sulcata. I assume that RF's need lower output due to being forest dwellers? If that's the case, I have a 5.0 tube new in box that I'd like to get rid of. Maybe I can find an RF owner near me to give it to. TIA
You can raise a 10.0 to lower the UVB into an appropriate range for your tortoise. But a 5.0 is more limited. Because it's less powerful. It already has to be within 10"-12" of the animal.
Redfoot need less exposure. But either can work. Especially if it gets set up with a UV meter.
 

New Posts

Top