Newbie, first day owner.

[adamllewellyn]

I'm a newbie in the tortoise world, just acquired a ten month old red-footed tortoise,and I'm curious if the humidity should remain on overnight? Or whether I should turn the vivarium off at night to replicate cooler temperatures? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[Big Ron]

Welcome to the forum glad you joined ,someone will help with your question i don't know anything about vivariums

 

[adamllewellyn]

Welcome to the forum glad you joined ,someone will help with your question i don't know anything about vivariums

Thanks! Yeah I'm just keeping it switched on at the moment, seen conflicting advice on Reddit threads and such so thought I'd come to a tortoise forum for reliable advice.

 

[Big Ron]

Thanks! Yeah I'm just keeping it switched on at the moment, seen conflicting advice on Reddit threads and such so thought I'd come to a tortoise forum for reliable advice.

You definitely came to the right place help is coming i'm sure

 

[Lyn W]

Hi and welcome,
Can you post some pics of your whole set up and the lamps you are using to get good feedback and help.
Are you using a humidifier? They aren't usually recommended for most species because the water droplets can be inhaled and cause problems especially if the temps aren't right so humidity is provided via substrate. However I don't keep RF so I may be wrong.
There are several caresheets in this section but I don't know which is the most up to date.

Redfoot and yellowfoot tortoises

tortoiseforum.org

@ZEROPILOT will be able to point you in the right direction of the right caresheet when he pops in. and tell you what temps and humidity levels should be . Do you have a hide for your tort - he looks a bit exposed in the pic.

 

[adamllewellyn]

Hi and welcome,
Can you post some pics of your whole set up and the lamps you are using to get good feedback and help.
Are you using a humidifier? They aren't usually recommended for most species because the water droplets can be inhaled and cause problems especially if the temps aren't right so humidity is provided via substrate. However I don't keep RF so I may be wrong.
There are several caresheets in this section but I don't know which is the most up to date.

Redfoot and yellowfoot tortoises

tortoiseforum.org

@ZEROPILOT will be able to point you in the right direction of the right caresheet when he pops in. and tell you what temps and humidity levels should be . Do you have a hide for your tort - he looks a bit exposed in the pic.

Hi, thanks for the response! It's night here and I don't want to turn the heat lamp on, so I'll post pictures of the boxes I got from the set-up recommended and an earlier pic I took of the vivarium.

 

[adamllewellyn]

Hi, thanks for the response! It's night here and I don't want to turn the heat lamp on, so I'll post pictures of the boxes I got from the set-up recommended and an earlier pic I took of the vivarium.

I'll also add after this pic I've sunken the water tray into the substrate as it seemed a little too steep for my liking, could just have been paranoid but thought it would be a good idea.

 

[Lyn W]

I don't know enough about RF to tell you if those are Ok but they'll help RF keepers to help you.

 

[Lyn W]

I'll also add after this pic I've sunken the water tray into the substrate as it seemed a little too steep for my liking, could just have been paranoid but thought it would be a good idea.

Cheap terracotta plant saucers are probably most widely used, as they have good traction and gradual sloping sides which make it easier for a tort too get in and out. The dishes pet shops sell can be too steep and a drowning hazard if they tip back when getting out.

 

[adamllewellyn]

Cheap terracotta plant saucers are probably most widely used, as they have good traction and gradual sloping sides which make it easier for a tort too get in and out. The dishes pet shops sell can be too steep and a drowning hazard if they tip back when getting out.

Thanks! I'll order one now and just keep the water shallow until it arrives.

 

[Lyn W]

RF have quite a wide diet compared to others but www.thetortoisetable.org.uk is a good guide to tort safe plants for food or enclosures.

 

[Lyn W]

Thanks! I'll order one now and just keep the water shallow until it arrives.

You can pick them up cheaply in any place that has garden centre e.g. Homebase, The Range, maybe Wilkinsons B&Q etc

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Hello.
I'm sorry to pop in and start tossing bad news into the post. BUT...
Almost everything I saw or read is wrong
First off is lighting...You need a T5 HO linear strip florescent tube light. I use a 5.0. DO NOT BUY ANY UVB LIGHT SOURCE THAT SCREWS INTO A SOCKET. It looks like you have a T5. Is it an HO? I don't recognize that type. If it's a non HO it's not going to provide much UVB at any distance over a few inches. Especially if it has to pass through a screen.

Now for heat. You need to use a Ceramic Heat Emitter or CHE in a ceramic sockets reflector on a thermostat set to 82°.(The temp should be 80° to 88° 24/7) A CHE provides heat both night and day. Does not dry the carapace or the enclosure like that light in the photo and doesnt ad any more light. Redfoot do not like bright lights.

Humidity needs to be over 70% 24/7. The best way to accomplish this is to use Orchid bark as a substrate in a closed chamber enclosure. Add water into the corners of the substrate and it releases humidity as it evaporates. A closed chamber also holds in warmth. So it's the best way to house a Redfoot indoors.

OK. Heat 82° No nighttime drop. In a controlled environment we can eliminate that. And it's not required or recommended.
Humidity of over 70%. This takes time and tweaking to get just right. But making a semi sealed closed chamber enclosure helps tremendously.

Now the decor. Redfoot like to hide. But that half log is a flip over hazard. I'd partially bury the log so that it doesn't sit up so high and then scoop out the center with a gradual slope so that your baby can still hide inside of it.

What are you feeding?
What other questions do you have?
Did I forget anything?

 

[adamllewellyn]

Hello.
I'm sorry to pop in and start tossing bad news into the post. BUT...
Almost everything I saw or read is wrong
First off is lighting...You need a T5 HO linear strip florescent tube light. I use a 5.0. DO NOT BUY ANY UVB LIGHT SOURCE THAT SCREWS INTO A SOCKET. It looks like you have a T5. Is it an HO? I don't recognize that type. If it's a non HO it's not going to provide much UVB at any distance over a few inches. Especially if it has to pass through a screen.

Now for heat. You need to use a Ceramic Heat Emitter or CHE in a ceramic sockets reflector on a thermostat set to 82°.(The temp should be 80° to 88° 24/7) A CHE provides heat both night and day. Does not dry the carapace or the enclosure like that light in the photo and doesnt ad any more light. Redfoot do not like bright lights.

Humidity needs to be over 70% 24/7. The best way to accomplish this is to use Orchid bark as a substrate in a closed chamber enclosure. Add water into the corners of the substrate and it releases humidity as it evaporates. A closed chamber also holds in warmth. So it's the best way to house a Redfoot indoors.

OK. Heat 82° No nighttime drop. In a controlled environment we can eliminate that. And it's not required or recommended.
Humidity of over 70%. This takes time and tweaking to get just right. But making a semi sealed closed chamber enclosure helps tremendously.

Now the decor. Redfoot like to hide. But that half log is a flip over hazard. I'd partially bury the log so that it doesn't sit up so high and then scoop out the center with a gradual slope so that your baby can still hide inside of it.

What are you feeding?
What other questions do you have?
Did I forget anything?

Hi! No need to apologize for giving me advice mate, I'm new at this so no doubt going to get things wrong, I've got a T5 tube light as well as an infrared heat projector, what is the best way to measure humidity levels? Only gauge I have is a Microclimate device for temperature. Thanks for the tip about the log, I've now sunken it into the substrate and scooped out the inside, but given your warning I'd like to purchase a better object for hiding if you have any recommendations? Diet wise I was told red foots are 80 percent herbivorous and 20 percentage carnivorous so I purchased lettuce, spinach and bananas, grapes as well as pinky mice which I was told they can eat once per week. In regards to my latter point, how long can you freeze pinky mice for before they're not suitable for consumption? Thanks for your help it's much appreciated.

 

[adamllewellyn]

Hello.
I'm sorry to pop in and start tossing bad news into the post. BUT...
Almost everything I saw or read is wrong
First off is lighting...You need a T5 HO linear strip florescent tube light. I use a 5.0. DO NOT BUY ANY UVB LIGHT SOURCE THAT SCREWS INTO A SOCKET. It looks like you have a T5. Is it an HO? I don't recognize that type. If it's a non HO it's not going to provide much UVB at any distance over a few inches. Especially if it has to pass through a screen.

Now for heat. You need to use a Ceramic Heat Emitter or CHE in a ceramic sockets reflector on a thermostat set to 82°.(The temp should be 80° to 88° 24/7) A CHE provides heat both night and day. Does not dry the carapace or the enclosure like that light in the photo and doesnt ad any more light. Redfoot do not like bright lights.

Humidity needs to be over 70% 24/7. The best way to accomplish this is to use Orchid bark as a substrate in a closed chamber enclosure. Add water into the corners of the substrate and it releases humidity as it evaporates. A closed chamber also holds in warmth. So it's the best way to house a Redfoot indoors.

OK. Heat 82° No nighttime drop. In a controlled environment we can eliminate that. And it's not required or recommended.
Humidity of over 70%. This takes time and tweaking to get just right. But making a semi sealed closed chamber enclosure helps tremendously.

Now the decor. Redfoot like to hide. But that half log is a flip over hazard. I'd partially bury the log so that it doesn't sit up so high and then scoop out the center with a gradual slope so that your baby can still hide inside of it.

What are you feeding?
What other questions do you have?
Did I forget anything?

Hi! No need to apologize for giving me advice mate, I'm new at this so no doubt going to get things wrong, I've got a T5 tube light as well as an infrared heat projector, what is the best way to measure humidity levels? Only gauge I have is a Microclimate device for temperature. Thanks for the tip about the log, I've now sunken it into the substrate and scooped out the inside, but given your warning I'd like to purchase a better object for hiding if you have any recommendations? Diet wise I was told red foots are 80 percent herbivorous and 20 percentage carnivorous so I purchased lettuce, spinach and bananas, grapes as well as pinky mice which I was told they can eat once per week. In regards to my latter point, how long can you freeze pinky mice for before they're not suitable for consumption? Thanks for your help it's

Hi! No need to apologize for giving me advice mate, I'm new at this so no doubt going to get things wrong, I've got a T5 tube light as well as an infrared heat projector, what is the best way to measure humidity levels? Only gauge I have is a Microclimate device for temperature. Thanks for the tip about the log, I've now sunken it into the substrate and scooped out the inside, but given your warning I'd like to purchase a better object for hiding if you have any recommendations? Diet wise I was told red foots are 80 percent herbivorous and 20 percentage carnivorous so I purchased lettuce, spinach and bananas, grapes as well as pinky mice which I was told they can eat once per week. In regards to my latter point, how long can you freeze pinky mice for before they're not suitable for consumption? Thanks for your help it's much appreciated.

Also, the T5 is an eco unit so it's low output, apparently as I'm using a non-mesh Viv the owner said the UVI won't be reduced so it'll be suitable? Although I have no idea if he was right or just simply trying to avoid fitting a new one for me when I purchased lol.

 

[Karen(pebbles)]

hi and welcome to the forum, you're gonna love it here, so many experienced people willing to give you advice,
i have a hermanns, s/he's 2 years old now, i also keep him/her in a vivarium and have received so much advice from people here, here is some pics of my set up, hope this helps.

 

[Tim Carlisle]

You need a T5 HO linear strip florescent tube light. I use a 5.0.

Just curious here, but is the 5.0 the recommended output for an RF? I've only ever used the 10.0 or the 12.5 for my leo and sulcata. I assume that RF's need lower output due to being forest dwellers? If that's the case, I have a 5.0 tube new in box that I'd like to get rid of. Maybe I can find an RF owner near me to give it to. TIA

 

[Karen(pebbles)]

Just curious here, but is the 5.0 the recommended output for an RF? I've only ever used the 10.0 or the 12.5 for my leo and sulcata. I assume that RF's need lower output due to being forest dwellers? If that's the case, I have a 5.0 tube new in box that I'd like to get rid of. Maybe I can find an RF owner near me to give it to. TIA

i'm not really sure about other torts, this is what was recommended by one of the well known members here for my little hermanns sorry

 

[Yvonne G]

Hi, and welcome!

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Just curious here, but is the 5.0 the recommended output for an RF? I've only ever used the 10.0 or the 12.5 for my leo and sulcata. I assume that RF's need lower output due to being forest dwellers? If that's the case, I have a 5.0 tube new in box that I'd like to get rid of. Maybe I can find an RF owner near me to give it to. TIA

You can raise a 10.0 to lower the UVB into an appropriate range for your tortoise. But a 5.0 is more limited. Because it's less powerful. It already has to be within 10"-12" of the animal.
Redfoot need less exposure. But either can work. Especially if it gets set up with a UV meter.