OK, this version has been chopped until I bled, ripping the very heart from me- but it is just under 2 pages in 10 pt. font, so should make a nice handout.
Thoughts and input?
IMPORTANT: THIS IS NOT MEANT TO BE A CARESHEET YET! It is still being discussed and reviewed.
..............................................................
BASIC TORTOISE (AND NORTH AMERICAN BOX TURTLE) CARE (Short Version)
By Mark Adkins
Congratulations on buying a tortoise or North American Box Turtle. This brief paper is designed to help you get started right while you learn more about your new pet.
1. HOUSING A TORTOISE
1.a. SIZE/TYPE. The bigger the better- 8 shell lengths by 4 shell lengths, minimum, more for outdoor pens. Outdoor pens should be predator- and escape- proof (tortoises dig and climb!) Plastic storage tubs make good starter indoor homes.
1.b. HIDES. Provide an assortment of hides. They can include broad-leaved plants, boxes or tubs, flowerpots, etc. A simple 'humid hide' can be made from an upside down plastic tub with a hole in its side and spongy material attached to a wall. Keep the sponge damp and park in a warm area.
1.c. SUBSTRATE. Here are a few commonly used substrates-
- Teased and dampened long-fibered sphagnum moss, especially for young tortoises.
- Plain cypress or similar mulch.
- 'Bioactive substrates' are an excellent option worth learning about.
1.d. WATER. The water dish should be big enough to soak in, deep enough to cover about ½ of the shell, and easy to climb out of. Flower pot saucers work well. Wash often and keep filled.
2. THE RIGHT ENVIRONMENT FOR YOUR TORTOISE
2.a. HEATING. Aim for a range of 75-85F. (Up to 90-95F for African Spurred or Sulcata, Leopard, Greek, and Hermann's, and down to 70 for forest tortoises (Hinge-backs, Russians, and American Box Turtles).
Various heat emitting bulbs may be used to heat a habitat- 'ceramic heat emitters', basking bulbs, etc. They should be used per directions and always used with a heat-resistant or ceramic socket. Under-soil or under tank heaters can be used if more heat or humidity is needed, but they must be used carefully and safely.
Use easy to read thermometers in the habitat, and control temps by changing the height or number of heaters, or using a thermostatic control.
2.b. LIGHTING. Use a timer to provide a steady 12 hours of daytime, but do not use so much light that it blinds them, and make sure they have shade. The best bulbs offer UVB lighting are best as it helps tortoises make vitamin D3 in their skin. With any bulb, follow the manufacturers instructions (including recommendations for replacement) and use common sense. Some UVB bulbs can also be used for heating.
2.c. HUMIDITY. All tortoises, especially the young, need some humidity. Aim for a range of about 40% to 70% for most tortoises, lower for the 'warm' species, and 70 T 100% for the 'cool' species. All tortoises should have access to a humid hide, and young tortoises should be misted 2-4 times a day until they drip.
Use easy to read humidity gauges, and adjust humidity by changing the air flow, adding live plants, misting, etc.
3. FEEDING A TORTOISE
Tortoise diets should be nutritionally complete, encourage natural feeding behavior, consistently eaten, and be practical and economical. The 'Weed Diet' is best for most tortoises.
3.a. INGREDIENTS include:
- Common yard plants: most grasses, dandelions, plantain, vetch, thistle, grape leaves, mulberry leaves, etc.
- Edible flowering and decorative plants: violet, rose, pansy, geraniums, daises, zinnias, marigolds, hibiscus, nasturtium, chrysanthemum, fern, fig, Opuntia cacti (pads, fruits, flowers), etc.
- Grocery store: lettuces, greens, dandelion, spinach, kale, cactus pads, and cabbage. Bagged salad mixes with a variety of lettuce colors and shapes are very helpful. (Spinach and light green lettuces, like Iceberg or Romaine, should only be used sparingly as part of a rotation.)
- Feed or Pet Store: alfalfa, Timothy grass, Orchard grass, live wheatgrass (sold for cats, etc.)
- AVOID known dangerous plants, like lily, ivy, yew, foxglove, oak, the common 'Christmas plants', and tobacco.
To help ensure a healthy diet, rotate what is offered as often as possible. To ensure that they get all the minerals and vitamin they need, add a pinch of calcium powder 1 or 2 times a week, and a pinch of multivitamin every 2 weeks.
Avoid commercial diets and chows until you learn more about your pet's needs.
3.b. FRUIT AND MEAT EATERS. Most tortoises should not have fruit or meat, other than a rare snack. The 'forest tortoises' are designed to digest a wider range of foods since their native plants are so low in nutrients.
- Yellow-foots and Hinge-backs should get about 1/4th of their diet in fruit and about 1/10th in meat,
- Red-foots should get less fruit and meat, and
- Box Turtles should get about 1/4th of the diet in meat and 1/10th in fruit.
3.b.i. THINGS TO TRY.
- Fruits: figs, papaya, mango, cactus 'pears', mushrooms and pineapple are best but other fruits A(and vegetables with seeds) are OK in rotation.
- Meats: worms, many kinds of bugs and larvae, young rats or mice (often frozen- warm before using), slugs, snails, cooked chicken or organ meat, oily fish, or a high quality/low fat dog or cat food.
- Avoid: hot peppers and most citrus (an occasional naval orange is OK.) Bananas and grapes should be used less often. Also avoid processed or fatty meats.
3.c. HOW MUCH TO FEED? It is too easy to overfeed a tortoise, which can make them obese or stress their bones and organs. A couple of common feeding tricks include:
- Very small daily meal of good food, possibly with a later feeding of a lower nutrient 'bulky' food like lettuce or plant leaves (still in small amounts.)
- Removing uneaten food after about 15 minutes, again possibly offering a later bulky food.
- Offering larger meals, but less often. An adult tortoise may only be fed a real meal two or three times a week.
Use an easy to clean feeding surface, like slate or tile, plastic 'paper' plates, newspaper 'plates', etc.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
This is only the beginning- there are several great books, websites, and other sources for good information. A couple places to start would include:
- http://www.tortoiseforum.org (who also has a longer version of this article)
- http://www.tortoisetrust.org
- http://www.austinsturtlepage.com
...............................
The numbering thing- part of it is a game with myself- can I keep the paragraphs consistent between versions? Part is to help with the editing. The finished version does not need to have them.
Please remember the main goals of this sheet:
- 1 page handout (front and back), that...
- provides the new buyer with basic information while encouraging them to do more research, without...
- saying anything that will hurt a tortoise or make a store not carry it.
Thoughts and input?
IMPORTANT: THIS IS NOT MEANT TO BE A CARESHEET YET! It is still being discussed and reviewed.
..............................................................
BASIC TORTOISE (AND NORTH AMERICAN BOX TURTLE) CARE (Short Version)
By Mark Adkins
Congratulations on buying a tortoise or North American Box Turtle. This brief paper is designed to help you get started right while you learn more about your new pet.
1. HOUSING A TORTOISE
1.a. SIZE/TYPE. The bigger the better- 8 shell lengths by 4 shell lengths, minimum, more for outdoor pens. Outdoor pens should be predator- and escape- proof (tortoises dig and climb!) Plastic storage tubs make good starter indoor homes.
1.b. HIDES. Provide an assortment of hides. They can include broad-leaved plants, boxes or tubs, flowerpots, etc. A simple 'humid hide' can be made from an upside down plastic tub with a hole in its side and spongy material attached to a wall. Keep the sponge damp and park in a warm area.
1.c. SUBSTRATE. Here are a few commonly used substrates-
- Teased and dampened long-fibered sphagnum moss, especially for young tortoises.
- Plain cypress or similar mulch.
- 'Bioactive substrates' are an excellent option worth learning about.
1.d. WATER. The water dish should be big enough to soak in, deep enough to cover about ½ of the shell, and easy to climb out of. Flower pot saucers work well. Wash often and keep filled.
2. THE RIGHT ENVIRONMENT FOR YOUR TORTOISE
2.a. HEATING. Aim for a range of 75-85F. (Up to 90-95F for African Spurred or Sulcata, Leopard, Greek, and Hermann's, and down to 70 for forest tortoises (Hinge-backs, Russians, and American Box Turtles).
Various heat emitting bulbs may be used to heat a habitat- 'ceramic heat emitters', basking bulbs, etc. They should be used per directions and always used with a heat-resistant or ceramic socket. Under-soil or under tank heaters can be used if more heat or humidity is needed, but they must be used carefully and safely.
Use easy to read thermometers in the habitat, and control temps by changing the height or number of heaters, or using a thermostatic control.
2.b. LIGHTING. Use a timer to provide a steady 12 hours of daytime, but do not use so much light that it blinds them, and make sure they have shade. The best bulbs offer UVB lighting are best as it helps tortoises make vitamin D3 in their skin. With any bulb, follow the manufacturers instructions (including recommendations for replacement) and use common sense. Some UVB bulbs can also be used for heating.
2.c. HUMIDITY. All tortoises, especially the young, need some humidity. Aim for a range of about 40% to 70% for most tortoises, lower for the 'warm' species, and 70 T 100% for the 'cool' species. All tortoises should have access to a humid hide, and young tortoises should be misted 2-4 times a day until they drip.
Use easy to read humidity gauges, and adjust humidity by changing the air flow, adding live plants, misting, etc.
3. FEEDING A TORTOISE
Tortoise diets should be nutritionally complete, encourage natural feeding behavior, consistently eaten, and be practical and economical. The 'Weed Diet' is best for most tortoises.
3.a. INGREDIENTS include:
- Common yard plants: most grasses, dandelions, plantain, vetch, thistle, grape leaves, mulberry leaves, etc.
- Edible flowering and decorative plants: violet, rose, pansy, geraniums, daises, zinnias, marigolds, hibiscus, nasturtium, chrysanthemum, fern, fig, Opuntia cacti (pads, fruits, flowers), etc.
- Grocery store: lettuces, greens, dandelion, spinach, kale, cactus pads, and cabbage. Bagged salad mixes with a variety of lettuce colors and shapes are very helpful. (Spinach and light green lettuces, like Iceberg or Romaine, should only be used sparingly as part of a rotation.)
- Feed or Pet Store: alfalfa, Timothy grass, Orchard grass, live wheatgrass (sold for cats, etc.)
- AVOID known dangerous plants, like lily, ivy, yew, foxglove, oak, the common 'Christmas plants', and tobacco.
To help ensure a healthy diet, rotate what is offered as often as possible. To ensure that they get all the minerals and vitamin they need, add a pinch of calcium powder 1 or 2 times a week, and a pinch of multivitamin every 2 weeks.
Avoid commercial diets and chows until you learn more about your pet's needs.
3.b. FRUIT AND MEAT EATERS. Most tortoises should not have fruit or meat, other than a rare snack. The 'forest tortoises' are designed to digest a wider range of foods since their native plants are so low in nutrients.
- Yellow-foots and Hinge-backs should get about 1/4th of their diet in fruit and about 1/10th in meat,
- Red-foots should get less fruit and meat, and
- Box Turtles should get about 1/4th of the diet in meat and 1/10th in fruit.
3.b.i. THINGS TO TRY.
- Fruits: figs, papaya, mango, cactus 'pears', mushrooms and pineapple are best but other fruits A(and vegetables with seeds) are OK in rotation.
- Meats: worms, many kinds of bugs and larvae, young rats or mice (often frozen- warm before using), slugs, snails, cooked chicken or organ meat, oily fish, or a high quality/low fat dog or cat food.
- Avoid: hot peppers and most citrus (an occasional naval orange is OK.) Bananas and grapes should be used less often. Also avoid processed or fatty meats.
3.c. HOW MUCH TO FEED? It is too easy to overfeed a tortoise, which can make them obese or stress their bones and organs. A couple of common feeding tricks include:
- Very small daily meal of good food, possibly with a later feeding of a lower nutrient 'bulky' food like lettuce or plant leaves (still in small amounts.)
- Removing uneaten food after about 15 minutes, again possibly offering a later bulky food.
- Offering larger meals, but less often. An adult tortoise may only be fed a real meal two or three times a week.
Use an easy to clean feeding surface, like slate or tile, plastic 'paper' plates, newspaper 'plates', etc.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
This is only the beginning- there are several great books, websites, and other sources for good information. A couple places to start would include:
- http://www.tortoiseforum.org (who also has a longer version of this article)
- http://www.tortoisetrust.org
- http://www.austinsturtlepage.com
...............................
The numbering thing- part of it is a game with myself- can I keep the paragraphs consistent between versions? Part is to help with the editing. The finished version does not need to have them.
Please remember the main goals of this sheet:
- 1 page handout (front and back), that...
- provides the new buyer with basic information while encouraging them to do more research, without...
- saying anything that will hurt a tortoise or make a store not carry it.
