Radiator Oil Filled Heater Help

[Reggie]

I'm looking for advice on what radiator oil filled heater to get for Reggie's room. Our plan was to heat the room during the day with the heater, set the timer to turn it off at night, and heat only the hide at night with a radiant heat panel. The timer would turn the heater back on in the morning. We bought a heater but discovered it does not have a 24 hour timer and it seems it cannot be set up with an external timer, as I had originally planned to do. I looked online for an oil heater with a built in 24 hour timer. I found a Delonghi at Home Depot that looks like the timer will allow a lower temp at night and higher in the day. Reviews are decent.

Your thoughts, ideas, and experiences with oil heaters would be appreciated. Maybe I'll just have to leave the oil heater on 24 hours?

Thank you!

 

[Tom]

I'm looking for advice on what radiator oil filled heater to get for Reggie's room. Our plan was to heat the room during the day with the heater, set the timer to turn it off at night, and heat only the hide at night with a radiant heat panel. The timer would turn the heater back on in the morning. We bought a heater but discovered it does not have a 24 hour timer and it seems it cannot be set up with an external timer, as I had originally planned to do. I looked online for an oil heater with a built in 24 hour timer. I found a Delonghi at Home Depot that looks like the timer will allow a lower temp at night and higher in the day. Reviews are decent.

Your thoughts, ideas, and experiences with oil heaters would be appreciated. Maybe I'll just have to leave the oil heater on 24 hours?

Thank you!

What species of tortoise?

You don't want any sort of built in timer on your heater. Primary reason being that if ever the power goes out, they reset to factory default, which is off or something low. You want the most basic regular un-fancy type you can get with no "computer" built in to "help". Plug it into your own external thermostat because the one on the unit will allow wild temperature swings. Plug the thermostat into a heavy duty appliance timer that is meant to handle more wattage than what the heater draws. Get one of the thermostats that handles at least 1000 watts, and only use the heater on the lowest setting, which should be either 600 or 700 watts. Set the heater on "low" and set the built in thermostat on the heater to about 3/4 for redundant safety should your external thermostat ever fail.

Here is a random heater I found on an internet search:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Comfort-Zone-1-500-Watt-White-Oil-Filled-Electric-Space-Heater-Radiator-with-Silent-Operation/5000247875?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-ggl-_-PLA_SOL_237_Seasonal-Heat-Coolers-_-5000247875-_-online-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4ZOB7rvm-gIVWPfjBx3jKQ5IEAQYASABEgJ3dPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DN9K7PH/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20


Appliance timer:

GE 7-Day Digital Heavy Duty Timer 15150 - The Home Depot

Save energy, save money and feel secure. The GE Plug-In 7-Day Digital Timer delivers convenient automation for lamps, seasonal lighting, portable fans, featuring a seven-day programmable schedule and a convenient override switch gives you ultimate freedom by providing a seamless transition...

www.homedepot.com

 

[wellington]

@Tom I bought a new heater and they all either have a thermostat or say comfort zone. When plugged into my thermostat that is good for 1500 watts it for some reason does not seem to come back on once the thermostat turns it off when temp reaches. All the newer ones have either a thermostat or the comfort zone in them (comfort zone I assume is still a thermostat, just not one you can set) The comfort zone from my understanding shuts the heater off if it gets too warm within its own comfort zone setting or thermostat. I'm having to run my heater without the thermostat in order for my shed to stay warm enough. Even then it doesn't get as warm as the old models that did not have these features. Last year I had to run 2 of these heaters when temps got below zero. Never had to do that before last year when I had older models.

 

[Tom]

@Tom I bought a new heater and they all either have a thermostat or say comfort zone. When plugged into my thermostat that is good for 1500 watts it for some reason does not seem to come back on once the thermostat turns it off when temp reaches. All the newer ones have either a thermostat or the comfort zone in them (comfort zone I assume is still a thermostat, just not one you can set) The comfort zone from my understanding shuts the heater off if it gets too warm within its own comfort zone setting or thermostat. I'm having to run my heater without the thermostat in order for my shed to stay warm enough. Even then it doesn't get as warm as the old models that did not have these features. Last year I had to run 2 of these heaters when temps got below zero. Never had to do that before last year when I had older models.

They have all always come with a thermostat. Its the newer digital ones that are to be avoided. The dial type ones are fine, but they don't hold a constant temp and allow for wild temp swings. That's why I say turn the thermostat on the unit up to about 75%, and use your own external thermostat to turn it on and off.

I don't know about the "comfort zone" feature, because I won't buy one with that on it.

 

[Levi the Leopard]

My mini oil filled radiator is set up just like Tom suggests. The device's thermostat is turned all the way up and is regulated instead by the separate, digital thermostat (like the one Tom linked to). This way has worked very well for me, for many years now.

 

[Reggie]

Thank you, Tom. You are so very kind and patient and your help is invaluable. I cannot tell you how much i appreciate your help and going the extra mile to include the links. I have ordered the items you suggested today

Our Reggie is a handsome 6 year old leopard with personality plus. I've been getting great advise from you and other friends here on the Forum for a few weeks with converting our bedroom into his enclosure. Most recently you replied to my request for help connecting the cord to the heat panel for hide. I posted this question about the oil heater on a separate thread so it would stand out from the other posts I've submitted.

We are nearly done with the room. This heater was a glitch we didn't anticipate. I wish I had asked these questions earlier so we could be homing him into his new room this week. But once these arrive, we should be all set.

Thank you once again, Tom, and to all the Forum members who have been super helpful and kind.

Pictures soon!!(That might be my next needy request for help )

 

[Tom]

My mini oil filled radiator is set up just like Tom suggests. The device's thermostat is turned all the way up and is regulated instead by the separate, digital thermostat (like the one Tom linked to). This way has worked very well for me, for many years now.

Just as a fine tuning point... I like to use the built-in thermostat on the unit as a redundant safety. I turn it all the way up and then set my separate thermostat to maintain the correct temp. After it all stabilizes at the correct temperature, I like to go in and turn that dial on the heater down until I feel/hear it click off. Then I turn it back up until it clicks back on, and go just a little farther than that.

My thinking is that when our cheap $30 dollar thermostats fail, they usually stick "on". If/when that happens, the built-in thermostat on the heater can still cut the heater off so that it doesn't ever get too hot and cook a tortoise. The temperature will still go over the set point, but in theory, the heater's own thermostat should turn it off before it gets to lethal temperatures in the box.

 

[Maro2Bear]

I know that the OP has received a ton of great advice here, but I’m still scratching my head about this statement & curious why it can’t be connected to a timer.

➡️ “We bought a heater but discovered it does not have a 24 hour timer and it seems it cannot be set up with an external timer, as I had originally planned to do.”

 

[Tom]

I know that the OP has received a ton of great advice here, but I’m still scratching my head about this statement & curious why it can’t be connected to a timer.

➡️ “We bought a heater but discovered it does not have a 24 hour timer and it seems it cannot be set up with an external timer, as I had originally planned to do.”

I bought one of the new digital computer controlled types a few years back and ran into this issue. In the case of the one I bought, every time the timer kicked the power off, the heater would reset to the factory default temps and timers which was off half the day and set to 65 when on. The model I had would not "save" your settings when the power went off, and the use of a timer made the power go off every day.

I had to find the older type "analog" style heaters.

 

[Maro2Bear]

I bought one of the new digital computer controlled types a few years back and ran into this issue. In the case of the one I bought, every time the timer kicked the power off, the heater would reset to the factory default temps and timers which was off half the day and set to 65 when on. The model I had would not "save" your settings when the power went off, and the use of a timer made the power go off every day.

I had to find the older type "analog" style heaters.

Aaaaaagh. Got it. Thank you Tom, I could not determine if it was physical/mechanical issue or an electrical/digital issue. Tks.

 

[wellington]

@Tom a room heater would be 1500 watt. You mentioned only getting a 1000 watt thermostat. In a hide box I get it, small watt heater. But a whole room heater both sides may need to be used and 1500 watts on a 1000 watt thermostat is dangerous?

 

[Tom]

@Tom a room heater would be 1500 watt. You mentioned only getting a 1000 watt thermostat. In a hide box I get it, small watt heater. But a whole room heater both sides may need to be used and 1500 watts on a 1000 watt thermostat is dangerous?

Quote from post number 2:

"Get one of the thermostats that handles at least 1000 watts, and only use the heater on the lowest setting, which should be either 600 or 700 watts. Set the heater on "low" and set the built in thermostat on the heater to about 3/4 for redundant safety should your external thermostat ever fail."

I would never run one of those heaters full bore at 1500 watts. If I need more heat, I run two of them on the "low" setting.

 

[wellington]

Quote from post number 2:

"Get one of the thermostats that handles at least 1000 watts, and only use the heater on the lowest setting, which should be either 600 or 700 watts. Set the heater on "low" and set the built in thermostat on the heater to about 3/4 for redundant safety should your external thermostat ever fail."

I would never run one of those heaters full bore at 1500 watts. If I need more heat, I run two of them on the "low" setting.

Why would you not run one on the highest setting, 1500 watts? I know not in a night box and possibly your area would not need it but the OP may need the higher watts/heat and I know I do and always have run mine at 1500 watts most days in winter.

 

[Tom]

Why would you not run one on the highest setting, 1500 watts? I know not in a night box and possibly your area would not need it but the OP may need the higher watts/heat and I know I do and always have run mine at 1500 watts most days in winter.

That is pulling more power than I am comfortable with on a single normal household circuit. Anyone doing that should be certain there is nothing else plugged in anywhere on that entire circuit, and their wiring better be in good repair and up to code.

An electrician or someone with lots of electrical knowledge, like @jaizei might chime in and say its fine, but I run cautious on that sort of thing. Microwaves pull a lot of power too, 900-1100 watts for most models, and when we re-did our kitchen, I made sure that the microwave and all other large appliances that pull loads of power each had their own circuit and breaker.

I've run the oil heaters at full bore to do break in and get rid of that new heater smell and it heats up even the power cord on the heater itself. And that was plugged into a 20 amp circuit in the work shop. Most household circuits are 15 amp. Normal circuits should be able to handle 1500 watts, but running something like that all night pulling that much power makes me nervous.

If someone wants to run 1500 watts of electrical heat, I would suggest having an electrician install a specialized thermostat that is made to handle that much power and also check to make sure the existing circuit is in good repair and can handle that load for hours at a time.

In practice, I've been running my radiant oil-filled heaters on low, 600 watts, through regular 1000 watt thermostats for decades with no problems to report.

 

[wellington]

That is pulling more power than I am comfortable with on a single normal household circuit. Anyone doing that should be certain there is nothing else plugged in anywhere on that entire circuit, and their wiring better be in good repair and up to code.

An electrician or someone with lots of electrical knowledge, like @jaizei might chime in and say its fine, but I run cautious on that sort of thing. Microwaves pull a lot of power too, 900-1100 watts for most models, and when we re-did our kitchen, I made sure that the microwave and all other large appliances that pull loads of power each had their own circuit and breaker.

I've run the oil heaters at full bore to do break in and get rid of that new heater smell and it heats up even the power cord on the heater itself. And that was plugged into a 20 amp circuit in the work shop. Most household circuits are 15 amp. Normal circuits should be able to handle 1500 watts, but running something like that all night pulling that much power makes me nervous.

If someone wants to run 1500 watts of electrical heat, I would suggest having an electrician install a specialized thermostat that is made to handle that much power and also check to make sure the existing circuit is in good repair and can handle that load for hours at a time.

In practice, I've been running my radiant oil-filled heaters on low, 600 watts, through regular 1000 watt thermostats for decades with no problems to report.

Since 2014 to before last winter my heater has run full 1500 w but on a thermostat. Part of last winter and so far for about 2 weeks it's been just full watts 24/7 no thermostat. However the garage/tort shed was built in 2014 and has a 30 amp breaker. My only problem is the thermostats failing or the heaters failing, not sure which. I always have a backup heater plugged in and on a thermostat but because it's never really in use that thermostat/heater stays working. First 7 years though never a problem.

 

[Tom]

Since 2014 to before last winter my heater has run full 1500 w but on a thermostat. Part of last winter and so far for about 2 weeks it's been just full watts 24/7 no thermostat. However the garage/tort shed was built in 2014 and has a 30 amp breaker. My only problem is the thermostats failing or the heaters failing, not sure which. I always have a backup heater plugged in and on a thermostat but because it's never really in use that thermostat/heater stays working. First 7 years though never a problem.

Many people do it. I'm just not comfortable doing it.

 

[jaizei]

However the garage/tort shed was built in 2014 and has a 30 amp breaker.

The 30 amp breaker goes to a sub panel in the garage/shed?

That is pulling more power than I am comfortable with on a single normal household circuit. Anyone doing that should be certain there is nothing else plugged in anywhere on that entire circuit, and their wiring better be in good repair and up to code.

An electrician or someone with lots of electrical knowledge, like @jaizei might chime in and say its fine, but I run cautious on that sort of thing. Microwaves pull a lot of power too, 900-1100 watts for most models, and when we re-did our kitchen, I made sure that the microwave and all other large appliances that pull loads of power each had their own circuit and breaker.

I've run the oil heaters at full bore to do break in and get rid of that new heater smell and it heats up even the power cord on the heater itself. And that was plugged into a 20 amp circuit in the work shop. Most household circuits are 15 amp. Normal circuits should be able to handle 1500 watts, but running something like that all night pulling that much power makes me nervous.

If someone wants to run 1500 watts of electrical heat, I would suggest having an electrician install a specialized thermostat that is made to handle that much power and also check to make sure the existing circuit is in good repair and can handle that load for hours at a time.

In practice, I've been running my radiant oil-filled heaters on low, 600 watts, through regular 1000 watt thermostats for decades with no problems to report.

I would prefer a separate/dedicated circuit. If I was using an existing circuit, I'd find out what else was on the circuit and check the connections in all the outlets between the one I was using and the panel to make sure there was no backstabbing.

 

[wellington]

@jaizei the 30 amp breaker is in the basement. Only the garage/shed is on it.

 

[jaizei]

@jaizei the 30 amp breaker is in the basement. Only the garage/shed is on it.

What I was getting at, was that even if the shed is on its own 30 amp feed, there should be a panel between the 30 amp breaker and the "normal" outlets you plug things into. "Normal" outlets (15 or 20 amp) can't, or at least aren't supposed to, be on a 30 amp circuit.

 

[wellington]

What I was getting at, was that even if the shed is on its own 30 amp feed, there should be a panel between the 30 amp breaker and the "normal" outlets you plug things into. "Normal" outlets (15 or 20 amp) can't, or at least aren't supposed to, be on a 30 amp circuit.

No other panel, they, electrician with garage builders just ran 10 gauge wire for the 30 amp breaker.