Separate male for a bit so he becomes interested again?

[biochemnerd808]

I have a group of Russian tortoises (1 male, 3 females) that I am hoping to breed. They are still indoors, but will move outdoors as soon as it's warm enough.

Since introducing the 2 'new' girls (after quarantine), my male has pretty much stopped his mating activities. He used to make amorous attempts several times a day, and now he does nothing of the sort. At least he's not biting anyone...

My question: will he become interested again when the torts move outside for the Summer, or can I create interest by removing him from the tort fort, and re-introducing him a few weeks later? I have multiple sets of lights, and a couple rubbermaids in the garage... so that's not an issue.

 

[wellington]

I can't really help with your Russians. I know someone either asked the same thing or said that would work. I don't remember which. It was a while ago. I would just worry that when you reintroduced them, that you may have to really watch that the females don't bully the male. Just a thought I had. I really wanted to tell you that, but also I checked out your tortoise blog. It's really nice, great pics, love the tort house.

 

[GBtortoises]

Seperating them for a time will sometimes help. Males often need to be present in his own already established territory and have females introduced to that territory. Sometimes a simulated springtime will do it. Brumation definitely will.

 

[biochemnerd808]

Thank you for the advice. My male has been trying very hard to brumate, and I haven't been letting him (getting him out, soaking him, putting him under the lights). He hasn't eaten in 4 weeks though, so maybe it would be best just to put him into a safe box in our garage (steady 45-50 degrees there right now) for a couple of weeks?
Hmmm... or maybe he can move in with @LynneDit's male in her wine cooler... it can be a wintertime bachelor's pad...

Seperating them for a time will sometimes help. Males often need to be present in his own already established territory and have females introduced to that territory. Sometimes a simulated springtime will do it. Brumation definitely will.

 

[GBtortoises]

If your tortoises are being kept at normal activity temperatures with normal light levels they are not trying to brumate. Tortoises will not do so under those conditions. If by trying to brumate you mean that your tortoise is constantly burying itself, this is normal for Russian tortoises. They are a burrowing species. Russians, along with other Testudo species will also bury themselves for long periods of time if the conditions above ground are too dry and/or too hot for long periods. Not having eaten in 4 weeks under normal activity conditions should be a concern. Placing your tortoise into brumation conditions is not a solution to this. Incidently, 45-50 degrees is to warm for a Russian tortoise to brumate. Most will be semi active at these temperatures. Russians should be brumated at a consistent 38-40 degrees. I think I would seperate the male that is not eating, keep it at activity level temperatures and light, ensure that it is well hydrated and make sure it begins eating.

 

[Yvonne G]

Yes, I'm with GB on this one. I think something else is going on and the tortoise needs to be set up in a hospital tank. He should be kept slight warmer than normal, but still have a place where he can go to get away from the heat. Encourage him to start eating. You might even try the baby food soaks. But there is deff. something wrong with him.

 

[biochemnerd808]

Awww, phooey. You think he's sick? Ok, I'll separate him from the others. I have spare lights and heat etc. that I keep on hand for rescues.

He hid for about a month last year, too, and went on hunger strike for several weeks. Then he got back to normal in mid-March. My females were also not coming out on their own until last week, but they are eating normally. My big female just started coming back out of her hide house on her own in the mornings, and is eating like a little piggy.

I check temps every few days with a temp gun - today is 97 right under the heat lamp, 82 in the ambient warm side, 69-71 in the various areas of the cool side. I keep the cool side dry-ish, but they have moistened coco coir to dig in in the mid range area. They have a dry hide on the cool side, and a humid hide in the mid range area. They definitely all slowed down during the winter months... sleeping more, eating less.

Yes, I'm with GB on this one. I think something else is going on and the tortoise needs to be set up in a hospital tank. He should be kept slight warmer than normal, but still have a place where he can go to get away from the heat. Encourage him to start eating. You might even try the baby food soaks. But there is deff. something wrong with him.

 

[biochemnerd808]

UPDATE: Separate male for a bit so he becomes interested again?

Giving Roz the 'hot' treatment worked - whatever the cause, he seems to have snapped out of his funk. He just ate an entire dandelion plant, leaves, flowers, stems, just left the root. He is working on a second one now.

His breathing seems fine, no leakage out of nares or eyes.