Sulcata Burrow - Southern California

[_emf]

Hi everyone!

My baby Lucy, dug a pretty lengthy burrow under her enclosure during summer. He has now been sleeping in the burrow for a couple of months but as the weather is getting colder, i was wondering if its still okay for him to stay there? His enclosure has heating but he doesn’t seem interested in it anymore. Just wondering if its okay for him to stay in the burrow during winter or if i should block it off and have him sleep in his enclosure? The burrow is about 10ft long that we can kinda see.
Currently its 60 degrees outside and later in the week it will drop to high 40s.

 

[Tom]

You need to get him out of the burrow ASAP, like tonight, and get him warmed up. He hasn't come up for two months? Are you sure he's alive? Ground temps here are too cold for them except in summer.

Sulcatas do not hibernate and they need warm temps year round. Burrows are great in summer, but once the weather cools, we have to block the burrow and make them sleep topside in heated, insulated boxes, like this:

Single Tortoise Night Box

I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll...

tortoiseforum.org

 

[_emf]

You need to get him out of the burrow ASAP, like tonight, and get him warmed up. He hasn't come up for two months? Are you sure he's alive? Ground temps here are too cold for them except in summer.

Sulcatas do not hibernate and they need warm temps year round. Burrows are great in summer, but once the weather cools, we have to block the burrow and make them sleep topside in heated, insulated boxes, like this:

Single Tortoise Night Box

I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll...

tortoiseforum.org

Hi Tom! I can see why you thought he may not be coming out - let me add that, Lucy comes out of the burrow every day for hours to eat, walk around, soak, ect.
But thank you, the drop in temperature is what i was worried about, during summer i wasn’t too worried but with the temperature now dropping i was questioning if it was still okay. I’ll make sure to block off the burrow ASAP and have him now stay in his heated enclosure.

 

[Tom]

Hi Tom! I can see why you thought he may not be coming out - let me add that, Lucy comes out of the burrow every day for hours to eat, walk around, soak, ect.
But thank you, the drop in temperature is what i was worried about, during summer i wasn’t too worried but with the temperature now dropping i was questioning if it was still okay. I’ll make sure to block off the burrow ASAP and have him now stay in his heated enclosure.

I see it now. I mistakenly read that to mean he'd been sleeping in there for months. You meant that he goes in there at night to sleep. Sorry about that. Been reading too many hibernation threads in the last few weeks where people's tortoises are trying to retire for the season prematurely.

Anyhow, to answer your questions again, yes, we are long past the time to block off the burrow. I watch for the distinct time each year when temps stops getting so high, the days get shorter, and we suddenly have a cold night in the 40s. Usually mid to late October up here in SCV. It was 41 over night one night last week here.

 

[_emf]

I see it now. I mistakenly read that to mean he'd been sleeping in there for months. You meant that he goes in there at night to sleep. Sorry about that. Been reading too many hibernation threads in the last few weeks where people's tortoises are trying to retire for the season prematurely.

Anyhow, to answer your questions again, yes, we are long past the time to block off the burrow. I watch for the distinct time each year when temps stops getting so high, the days get shorter, and we suddenly have a cold night in the 40s. Usually mid to late October up here in SCV. It was 41 over night one night last week here.

I covered his borrow today, and turned on his lamp. Lucy is cranky, he keep walking around and trying to get into his borrow. I’ve placed an order for the mats, thank you for attaching the link for the night box - I’ve used heating lamps since I’ve had Lucy but we’re going to update his enclosure to be more as the night box link you shared.

 

[Tom]

I covered his borrow today, and turned on his lamp. Lucy is cranky, he keep walking around and trying to get into his borrow. I’ve placed an order for the mats, thank you for attaching the link for the night box - I’ve used heating lamps since I’ve had Lucy but we’re going to update his enclosure to be more as the night box link you shared.

Your tortoise is too large for a heat lamp or CHE. Those will not effectively heat his core, but they are very likely to burn the top of the carapace. Measure the temperature under the heat lamp at tortoise shell height. Place a digital thermometer on its back on top of something that is the same height as your tortoise's shell and let it bake under the light for an hour. Make SURE that it isn't getting over 100. One night of this can do permanent damage. Check it tonight.

 

[_emf]

What is CHE?
Yes, i only have the heat lamp thats away from her turned on (picture attached) just so some heat is in the enclosure because i am aware of how the heat lamp being too low can cause issues. I ordered the bottom heating mat from your night box- would you say those are the best way to go for Lucy? Currently she is about 25-30lbs. He had quite a growth spurt this year.
I top radiant panel is what im having a hard time looking for.

Thank you so much for taking the time to talk with me about this.

 

[Tom]

What is CHE?
Yes, i only have the heat lamp thats away from her turned on (picture attached) just so some heat is in the enclosure because i am aware of how the heat lamp being too low can cause issues. I ordered the bottom heating mat from your night box- would you say those are the best way to go for Lucy? Currently she is about 25-30lbs. He had quite a growth spurt this year.
I top radiant panel is what im having a hard time looking for.

Thank you so much for taking the time to talk with me about this.

CHE = ceramic heating element. Regular incandescent light bulbs use a given amount of electricity and turn it into 20% light and 80% heat. CHEs of the same wattage produce 100% heat, and zero light. CHEs also emit their heat in a different longer wavelength than an incandescent bulb and this penetrates farther into the tortoise. CHEs also run VERY hot. Their surface can be 600 degrees F. These are an effective way to heat smaller indoor enclosures with smaller sized tortoises, but once tortoises start getting up to 10-15-20 pounds or larger, they become potentially dangerous and ineffective.

The Kane mat on bottom is a good start, but it won't do the job alone. Your thermometer will verify this for you. You'll need the RHP (radiant heat panel) on top as well. I get my RHPs from @Kapidolo Farms or from @Markw84 . I used to get them from Reptile Basics if the first two don't have any. They have become harder to find lately. Because it will be on a thermostat, you can get the 120 watt one if the 80 watt ones are not available.

 

[_emf]

CHE = ceramic heating element. Regular incandescent light bulbs use a given amount of electricity and turn it into 20% light and 80% heat. CHEs of the same wattage produce 100% heat, and zero light. CHEs also emit their heat in a different longer wavelength than an incandescent bulb and this penetrates farther into the tortoise. CHEs also run VERY hot. Their surface can be 600 degrees F. These are an effective way to heat smaller indoor enclosures with smaller sized tortoises, but once tortoises start getting up to 10-15-20 pounds or larger, they become potentially dangerous and ineffective.

The Kane mat on bottom is a good start, but it won't do the job alone. Your thermometer will verify this for you. You'll need the RHP (radiant heat panel) on top as well. I get my RHPs from @Kapidolo Farms or from @Markw84 . I used to get them from Reptile Basics if the first two don't have any. They have become harder to find lately. Because it will be on a thermostat, you can get the 120 watt one if the 80 watt ones are not available.

Thank you for information. I tried all 3 and they all seem to be out of stock for the 80 and 120 watt.
I did find this website with an 80watt available… does this seem like a correct RHP?

Wholesale Radiant Heat Panel

Buy Wholesale Radiant Heat Panels For Sale at Bulk Prices!

www.reptilesupplyco.com

The kane heat mat I ordered is a 18x27 - 72watt - would this be okay?
Would you like you suggest also purchasing a cover?

 

[Tom]

Thank you for information. I tried all 3 and they all seem to be out of stock for the 80 and 120 watt.
I did find this website with an 80watt available… does this seem like a correct RHP?

Wholesale Radiant Heat Panel

Buy Wholesale Radiant Heat Panels For Sale at Bulk Prices!

www.reptilesupplyco.com

The kane heat mat I ordered is a 18x27 - 72watt - would this be okay?
Would you like you suggest also purchasing a cover?

That is the correct RHP, and that is the correct size Kane mat for a 4x4 foot box.