Tort table setup - lamp placement

[BlackdownTortoiseLady]

Hi, I'm still very new to the tortoise parent club, so looking for some advice. We have recently upgraded the size of our tort table for our 9 month Greek Spur Thigh, and I'm not sure if the lamp we have is enough. George (our little one) is in an indoor enclosure measuring 1.1m x 0.4m. We have him set up with an Arcadia mercury vapour D3 100w basking lamp, placed centrally. We're in the UK and just heading into winter so temperatures are falling. Temperatures in his enclosure are around 45*C/114*F directly under the lamp, and 19*C/66*F at the furthest point. Recently George has become more lethargic and is sleeping more. I'm wondering if a second lamp at the end of the enclosure would encourage him to move/eat more? It would still leave one "cold" end for him to move to. Or is this just a seasonal thing with tortoises heading into winter? I'd really appreciate some advice on the benefits of a second lamp, and if the 100w bulb is the best option. We've had the bulb 6 months now, which is recommended replace time, so if there's a better option I'll replace it with something different. Cheers!

 

[Minority2]

1. A 115F basking spot temperature is too high. The "basking spot" which is directly under the basking lamp fixture should be around 95-100F for closed chamber enclosures. 95-105F for open enclosures.

2. A 66F ambient daytime temperatures is low. 70-75F should be the minimum for daytime "cool side" temperatures.

3. The walls of your current enclosure is too low. A growing tortoise may be able to scale the sides if motivated enough. I also recommend using a closed chamber style enclosure for United Kingdom tortoise owners because of how cold it can get over there.

4. I personally do not recommend mercury vapor bulbs because of how intense their light and heat can be for young tortoises. Some members have also claimed how mercury vapor bulbs can cause pyramiding regardless of high humidity conditions and hydration practices. I recommend using a incandescent flood basking bulb and separate linear florescent UV(B) reptile rated bulb instead. Slightly higher initial cost but results in lower electricity cost and longer replacement periods.

 

[T Smart]

Yes, the basking temperature is way to high. Shoot for what was posted above.

Are you soaking your little guy?

If not, try to give daily soaks in lukewarm water.

 

[JoesMum]

Hello and welcome from Kent, UK

To adjust the temperature under the basking lamp you raise it to make it coller or lower it to make it warmer. It must be 95-100F/35-37C directly under the basking lamp.

Your lamp looks far too close to the substrate for safety. If you can't get the right temperature, you may need a different wattage bulb.

Get yourself a digital infrared temperature gun type thermometer like this to measure the temperature accurately
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermometer-Zanmax-Non-Contact-Temperature-Indication/dp/B07CJ1SJYX/

At night, your tort needs complete darkness, but because your tort will only be a baby temperatures must not drop below 26C/80F day or night. It needs steady warmth and high humidity day and night for health.

To achieve this you need a closed roof on the enclosure and a Ceramic Heat Emitter with a thermostat. The thermostat ensures the CHE only cuts in when necessary so it can be left running 24/7.

I recommend you read the TFO care guides and compare them with your setup.

They're written by species experts working hard to correct the outdated information widely available on the internet and from pet stores and, sadly, from some breeders and vets too.

Beginner Mistakes
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Baby Testudo Tortoise Care (written about Russians but applies to yours too)
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread...-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/[/QUOTE]

 

[Yvonne G]

Please read and pay attention to the greek care sheet pinned at the top of our greek section. It was written by a very knowledgeable member. Quite often well meaning members here give out info they've learned about keeping sulcatas and leopards when answering questions about Mediterranean species. It's not the same care and you can't keep your greek baby like I keep my leopard baby.

 

[BlackdownTortoiseLady]

Hi all. Wow, thanks for the replies. I must admit I panicked a little with all the feedback thinking "Oh no what am I doing to our poor tortoise!", but it's better to know and be able to fix it. I'll sort the basking temperature out immediately, and then look to get the right lamps in to sort the other temperatures asap. Are there any particular Ceramic Heat Emitters people can recommend? And regarding the incandescent flood basking bulb and separate UV, is this choice the general consensus? I bought the mercury vapour after reading the Greek case sheet here where it was recommended, so I'm not sure what's for the best now.

I do have a digital infrared thermometer, which I use, I just clearly need to know better the recommended temps. And he does get a soak every day. He poops regularly (at least once a day, is that regularly enough??) and very very rarely do I get any urates in his urine, so I think he's hydrated? I am going to set up a dedicated "moist" hide, as I think perhaps I don't have the humidity high enough now.

 

[Minority2]

Hi all. Wow, thanks for the replies. I must admit I panicked a little with all the feedback thinking "Oh no what am I doing to our poor tortoise!", but it's better to know and be able to fix it. I'll sort the basking temperature out immediately, and then look to get the right lamps in to sort the other temperatures asap. Are there any particular Ceramic Heat Emitters people can recommend? And regarding the incandescent flood basking bulb and separate UV, is this choice the general consensus? I bought the mercury vapour after reading the Greek case sheet here where it was recommended, so I'm not sure what's for the best now.

I do have a digital infrared thermometer, which I use, I just clearly need to know better the recommended temps. And he does get a soak every day. He poops regularly (at least once a day, is that regularly enough??) and very very rarely do I get any urates in his urine, so I think he's hydrated? I am going to set up a dedicated "moist" hide, as I think perhaps I don't have the humidity high enough now.

The care sheets in this website are not regularly updated. Some in particular, such as the one you mentioned, may include suggestions that some members may have a problem with. Suggestions such as mercury vapor bulbs, sphagnum moss, and sand. Some of these items may have worked fine for some but have also been reported to cause severe to fatal problems for others. As a precaution, many members that have personally experienced and or seen reports of these occurrences will generally advise people to not use them.

Most of the mercury vapor bulbs sold on the market aren't reliable. Some models can stop producing adequate amounts of UV(B) rays within the first 3 months. A linear florescent UV(B) reptile rated bulb however, is rated to last at least 12 months. Some models, can remain relatively effective for 2-3 years depending on how the owner measures (solarmeter 6.5) and adjusts the light fixture to get the most out of their bulbs.

For a permanent indoor enclosure, a separate linear florescent UV(B) reptile rated bulb is essential. For owners that have the means to bring their tortoises outside regularly, natural sunshine is best.