Tortoise Senpai Input Requested

Tom

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So not the one I'm currently using: http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products/reptile_dome.php. The narrow one.

Something like this: https://www.cyberzoo.se/sv/articles/2.300.6791/zoo-med-deluxe-porcelain-brooder-lamp-25-cm-max-200w?

And the Arcadia is correct? I edited my post so don't know if you missed it. Google said the T5 gave more UV so I assume that one is better than the T8?
Any of those hoods should work for this application.

Yes on the T5 HO Arcadia bulbs. The 22 inch one is fine. It doesn't have to cover the entire enclosure. I prefer to run those for only one or two hours mid day to simulate the mid day UV spike that happens outside daily. They produce as much or more UV than the mid day summer sun, so it doesn't need to run all day. Using it this way also makes the expensive tubes last for years, so says my UV meter.
 

Tom

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https://www.cyberzoo.se/sv/articles/2.303.19092/arcadia-solar-basking-floodlight-75-w

Is this light any good? Or is the normal one linked before better?
I think all incandescent bulbs produce UV A. The manufacturers just don't advertise that fact for normal household bulbs. The reptile people try to use it as a selling point because the general public doesn't understand the different types of UV or which ones are needed. I think this bulb will work well for you.
 

TeamZissou

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I think all incandescent bulbs produce UV A. The manufacturers just don't advertise that fact for normal household bulbs. The reptile people try to use it as a selling point because the general public doesn't understand the different types of UV or which ones are needed. I think this bulb will work well for you.

I agree, the use of "includes UVA" in this case seems to be a marketing thing. I initially thought it was some sort of MVB that was made to pump out a lot of UVA. However, from the Arcadia website, the spectrum matches a normal incandescent bulb:

Arcadia bulb:

Arcadia solar-basking-spot-SPD-chart.jpg

Incandescent spectrum (wikipedia):

800px-Spectral_power_distribution_of_a_25_W_incandescent_light_bulb.png

Funny enough, UVA ranges from 315-400 nm, yet there is minimal UVA produced. It would make more sense to market it as a "near to mid IR" bulb since it produces a lot more in that range, as MarkW has talked about in the past.

As a side note, would you be able to purchase these Arcadia basking bulbs in CA? Is there some kind of exemption for specialty reptile equipment or are they included in the light bulb ban? It might be a good alternative to steer people towards.
 

Tom

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As a side note, would you be able to purchase these Arcadia basking bulbs in CA? Is there some kind of exemption for specialty reptile equipment or are they included in the light bulb ban? It might be a good alternative to steer people towards.
I have not checked, but its worth looking into. I'm still able to get what I need and have a stock pile, so its not an immediate concern for me, but someday it will be.
 

Joppin

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So the Arcadia bulb is better since it's a flood type and apparently doesn't give more UVA than the normal one?

Assuming I read your posts correctly, this would be the case?
 

TeamZissou

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Yes, they are basically the same. Neither incandescent bulb produces much UVA, but Arcadia went out of their way to advertise/use it as a selling point.
 

Joppin

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Just a small update:

I bought all of the stuff and have two issues.

I bought a hygrometer and I'm having some trouble keeping the humidity high, it settles at around 50%. So i put some "coasters" on top of the enclosure that seem to be well equipped for water to attach itself, I then spray the coasters and let them drip which gets my humidity to about 70-90%. Of course it then dissipates over time and settles back at around 50%

If I spray it at around 11am it will have gone down to about 50-60% at around 2pm. The lowest I've seen is 45%. Which is when I put the hygrometer in and I didn't have anything covering the top. So I'm thinking about getting a rain machine thing as I read from your posts that humidity should be 80% for a little tortoise to prevent pyramiding.

At night it sits at a stable 70-80% as I spray up the humidity to that level when I leave for work.

My question then is, as I cannot keep going up in the middle of the day to increase humidity would you recommend buying the rain machine to keep a more stable humidity level or is it ok for it to fall down to 50%?

The humidity is measured from the middle of the vivarium at just over tortoise level if he stretched his head up.


Second issue is more of a manufacturing fault (I hope). I bought the Arcadie T5 kit and when I turned it on the light flickered and then died. No matter what I do now, it won't turn on. The light doesn't look blackened so I'm thinking it's the power supply that tripped a switch or something?

I tried looking to see if there was a specific way to put the light in but it seems to just be slide it in, turn to lock. I've tried switching it around, changing outlet, making sure the outlet works using another appliance, taken the power supply cable out and put it in again, contemplated the meaning of life... but nothing.

I've already sent a message to customer support as I can see no way that I could've made an error in installing it.

So my question is: Is there a specific way to put the light in? Or did I just get a faulty product.
 

TeamZissou

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The frustration that you are experiencing with humidity is the reason that 'closed chambers' or vivariums are recommended since they allow less humidity to evaporate or escape. I can easily maintain 70% humidity in my closed chamber while the humidity of my house is around 15-30%.

Spraying is ineffective as you have found. Coir is very absorbent. You can try dumping large quantities of water onto the substrate and letting it get soaked up. This will release the humidity more slowly. Just do not let it get sopping wet. I doubt that this will get to consistently into the range that you want, however. I would start with 1L of water and see how that goes.

Longer term, you will need to figure out a way to cover the top or possibly get a different enclosure. The tank that your Hermanns is in currently on the small side and is probably only good for up to a year at most.

One option might be to cover the top with an appropriately sized board. You could get some weather strip from a hardware store and place that around the top rim of the tank and then place the board on top, which would seal it and minimize the board sliding off. It should really be secured in some other way, though I am not sure of the specifics on how best to do this for your tank. Then, you could mount the lights directly to the inside top of the enclosure using screws, eye bolts etc.

I think you got a bad bulb.
 

Joppin

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So I finally got a replacement bulb which didn't blow up (yay). The UV light is set on a timer from 10am to 12:30pm (2½ hours if I got the am and pm wrong)

P_20210619_101636.jpg

Done some changes to the enclosure, I've added Sphagnum moss and I've placed a towel on top of the tank which seems to have helped me maintain 65-85 humidity. 85 just after I moisten the enclosure at around 10am and 65-70 when I later get up in the evening around 7-8pm. The towel is kept at a safe distance from the heating lamps armature to ensure it doesn't... you know, burn the place down or something.

P_20210619_101650.jpg P_20210619_101816.jpg P_20210619_101630.jpg

I have 2 water bowls in the enclosure now, It has become quite warm in southern Sweden now and because of the small enclosure I have some issues keeping a cool spot. Currently looking into either making a bigger enclosure myself or the, probably going the happen option of having one made.
With a larger enclosure in mind is there a minimum size you'd want your tortoise to be for it's adult home or does size not really matter so long as it has what it needs in reach no matter where it is? Size as in how large it is.

Also got some heating lights in the form of regular matted bulbs and I got some herptivite (7 bottles) which should last me a while. The reason I got so many is because I didn't have to pay for shipping if I got 7 and shipping was almost the cost of one bottle.

P_20210619_102043.jpg

So I mentioned before that I had bought some Sphagnum moss, I also bought some orchid bark because, well... It said so in the guide and I found a place to buy them from. I haven't had time to remodel the substrate yet.

P_20210619_102158.jpg

So my question is, whaddaya think? Will this hold me until I can get a larger enclosure?
 

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TeamZissou

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Wow, you can go into business selling Herptivite!

I'd expect that this enclosure would last at about year. 2.4 x 1.2 m is generally regarded as the minimum size for an adult testudo. It cannot be too large.

The moss shouldn't be used since it has been found to be an impaction risk. Tortoises tend to eat it.
 

Joppin

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Wow, you can go into business selling Herptivite!

I'd expect that this enclosure would last at about year. 2.4 x 1.2 m is generally regarded as the minimum size for an adult testudo. It cannot be too large.

The moss shouldn't be used since it has been found to be an impaction risk. Tortoises tend to eat it.
Ah, ok. Thetortoisetable said it was fine but I've read a little online after your post and some seem to think it's fine while others don't. I haven't seen the tortoise eat it but I suppose it's better to be safe than sorry so I'll just go without using it. If I get any humidity problems I'll just add it in a place where the tortoise can't reach.

Thanks again for your input
 
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