Turbo - new Hermann!

[mkaykay]

We got our one month old tort today. He has been cruising non stop! Exploring everything! I was so worried about him and how to care for a Hermann but seeing him get so comfortable so fast is a huge relief.
The first couple hours he would go in his shell if he saw me watching him but now the whole family is watching and talking to him and he's running around everywhere. He finally hid under his plate and burrowed a bit. I was waiting for that since he's been so busy all day.
Has anyone trained their tort or do you think it's possible for Hermanns? I saw a few videos that were just too cute.
For now, bonding time.

 

[peiyiming]

so cute

 

[wellington]

Very cute. Couple things though. Is that light a coil or compact bulb? If so stop using it they can cause eye problems. The cucumber go for hydration but that's it no nutrients mostly water. Make sure you keep some humidity in the open enclosure. Great care sheets in the Hermanni section

 

[mkaykay]

Cucumber was there to see if he likes it. Just ate broccoli today. I recently weeded my garden so no dandelions at the moment.
The light bulb is compact 100W heat bulb. Got it in the reptile section at petsmart. Are the coils bad? The uvb bulb looks coiled, not like a regular light bulb. I don't have that out yet as I had him outside in a habitat today to get sun.

 

[THBfriend]

@mkaykay
They do like cucumber, but it's not a good food plant, if you can call it food at all - it's more like edible water. Broccoli and all other forms of the wild cabbage plant (cabbage, kale, collard greens, etc.) should only be fed sparingly (if at all - my Hermann's tortoises almost never get any).

Tortoises need adequate heat + brightness + UV. Do you have just that one lamp seen on the first photo? If yes, then that's probably insufficient. Compact fluorescent lamps ("coils") aren't bad per se. It's the ultraviolet ones that supposedly can cause eye problems according to some people here. In reality, all types of UV lamps can cause eye problems. The actual problem with a UV CFL in your case would be that it most likely can't provide sufficient intensity and coverage for your tortoise and enclosure. If you'd like to learn the details, I summarized them here and here.

 

[Yvonne G]

Now THAT'S what I call a habitat! A very nice size indeed. (Just change out those reptile bowls for clay plant saucers. The saucers are easier for the baby to climb into and out of because of the sloping sides)

Have you had a chance to read Chris's care sheet for Hermanns? We have it pinned at the top of the Hermanns section. I think he gives a list of foods you can offer your new little guy.

 

[mkaykay]

Thanks THBfriend!

 

[TMartin510]

You should do some research on the zoo med uvb 10.0 bulb and lamp it's a longer lamp and is nice and bright and reaches down 20 inches it's what I use plus a 100 watt basking bulb. Or you could look into one of the all in one's I think it's MVB?

 

[mkaykay]

@mkaykay
They do like cucumber, but it's not a good food plant, if you can call it food at all - it's more like edible water. Broccoli and all other forms of the wild cabbage plant (cabbage, kale, collard greens, etc.) should only be fed sparingly (if at all - my Hermann's tortoises almost never get any).

Tortoises need adequate heat + brightness + UV. Do you have just that one lamp seen on the first photo? If yes, then that's probably insufficient. Compact fluorescent lamps ("coils") aren't bad per se. It's the ultraviolet ones that supposedly can cause eye problems according to some people here. In reality, all types of UV lamps can cause eye problems. The actual problem with a UV CFL in your case would be that it most likely can't provide sufficient intensity and coverage for your tortoise and enclosure. If you'd like to learn the details, I summarized them here and here.

Why no to collard greens and broccoli? I'm having so much confusion as so many different sources give different food examples. I've heard pellet food is a no no but that leafy greens, weeds, and certain veggies are fine. I'm not for the pellet food but my spouse read it and now I'm trying to convince him it's not the best. Then he asked why not collard greens and I didn't know what to say. Advice please!

 

[SarahChelonoidis]

Collards are a tricky one. They have a good calcium to phosphorous ratio and a low oxalic acid concentration, but are often classified as a "goitrogenic food", so there are concerns about regular feeding hindering thyroid function. As part of a varied diet, I don't think there is any evidence to support not feeding collards, however. Brocoli is in the same family so the goitrogen concerns are the same but it doesn't have the redeeming calcium benefit of the collards.

A handy reference: http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/nutrientanalysis.htm

 

[mkaykay]

I was at our huge plant store and even the small saucers for under pots were all narrow edges, more so than his water bowl. He tipped twice yesterday so I completely leveled out his rock so he couldn't fall off that. He tipped over again today and of course we're gone all day at work I panicked. He popped in the bath, he ate very good so I think he's okay. But he tuckered out and burrowed early tonight. I just don't know if he's bored? But I tried to put a lot of options in his habitat. What else can I add to help with boredom? I already see he loves to climb but he just topples backwards when he's trying to climb on the wall he's just too small yet.

I attached a picture of his habitat but there's been some changes. The big rock is completely level with the ground. Food dish is out. There's a ramp so he can get off the log he managed to climb and its moved into the corner and blocked so he can't get stuck on the side by the wall. He's gotten up there a few times and I was surprised he didn't go off the edge. But he tried the sides then just sat there patiently until I put a board in. Smart cookie.
Also moved the succulents.

Also, I've read some posts about people being frustrated with us "newbies" but I did a TON Of research before buying a tort. I seriously felt like a "beginner expert" until I got him. There is also a ton of conflicting information. Lastly, nothing prepares you completely. It's all about being hands on. So thank you to those who have politely and patiently responded. It's greatly appreciated.

 

[HermanniChris]

Your enclosure looks great. Just make sure that substrate does not dry out. While young, this species is highly susceptible to dehydration, more so than other Mediterranean tortoises usually. Follow the lighting suggestions you're already receiving here. Have you read my care sheet pinned at the top of this forum or viewed my site hermannihaven.com? You're right, there is a ton of conflicting information but you have to find out where this information is coming from and look into what the writer has done with the species as a whole and for how long. Anyone can write something up based off basics and hearsay but it's the raw and real long term experience that we all find valuable. As for diet, follow what I suggest in the care sheet and on the site. This is based off several decades of keeping and breeding Hermann's tortoises hands on and extensively. Blood work and level checks we have run on them solidify that these methods work and promote a long life. One of the absolute best things you can do is grab some freshly picked weeds (that have not been subjected to sprays of any kind of course) and getting your hands on some Mazuri tortoise diet original formula goes a long, long way and is much much better than store bought produce. Never force supplements. Offer calcium powder sparingly maybe a handful of times a month if that and offer cuttle bone so that the animal can take it as it sees fit. These are wild animals, nothing else and they know what they need. As long as they have it within their reach, they will use it when they need it. In nature, no one hands these creatures these things, they find them on their own. Discarded snail shells are consumed heavily by Hermann's tortoises of all ages from neonates to elderly adults for example. The bones of deceased wildlife are also gnawed on and consumed. The calcium rich ground also enables the tortoises to get their fill. Another reason why proper diet goes the distance. Remember 3 major components: high calcium, high fiber and lower protein. As for him flipping over, what are you temps? Hermann's tortoises cannot tolerate excessive heat at all so this could mean he's too warm. What about at night? Are you allowing him to cool down? Another huge misconception is that these "babies" need to be warm at night. That couldn't be any further from the truth. They can be allowed to drop way down into the low 60s without causing any bit of harm. In fact they need it as it replicates nature greatly. Where these tortoises occur, it's bright warm sun all day and dark and cool at night especially within their little microclimates where they burrow in. Burrowing in general is absolutely normal behavior for this species. Babies may burrow for days on end until they feel the need to come up and explore or eat. By nature they are programed to hide a great deal of the time until they are of a less vulnerable size. Even then, they will still seek refuge often.

Hope this helps, feel free to message me anytime about anything to with Hermann's and continue to ask questions on this site and share, share. share. It's a great place.

Chris

 

[connerspringer]

I really like the enclosure! Seems to offer the little guy a lot of room to run around