This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Ongoing research to best develop a plan to keep the animal in peak condition for whichever species you are caring for is essential.
The combination of its small size and beautiful golden color has made Testudo kleinmanni a much sought after addition to tortoise collections. This popularity within the pet trade is second only to habitat loss in terms of impacting the overall wild populations. The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) lists Testudo kleinmanni as an Appendix I species, affording it the highest possible protection. The Egyptian tortoise is also listed as Endangered on the World Conservation Union (IUCN) Red List, which is the second highest designation.
T. kleinmanni is a difficult species to maintain and should not be considered an appropriate species for the beginning tortoise keeper. Found from Libya to Israel, they are extremely well adapted to their native arid environment; unfortunately this very adaptation to extreme conditions leaves them vulnerable when we attempt to maintain them in our “human†temperate world. Only if one is willing to go to great lengths to duplicate their natural environment should keeping and breeding this species be attempted. Only captive hatched animals should be obtained. The combination of shipping stress, exposure to foreign pathogens, and minimal physical reserves due to their diminutive size results in the vast majority of wild caught specimens perishing, even with aggressive medical care.
As indicated by their light coloration, T. kleinmanni originate in sandy / rocky areas. Evolving a darker coloration in such an area would make a tortoise easy prey for any predator. Their small size allows them to warm quickly after cold desert nights and their reflective rather than absorptive carapace color allows them to extend their time foraging during the day before the desert heat drives them under cover. Male Egyptian tortoises are typically 3 – 4 inches (8 – 10 cm) in length as adults, while females are somewhat larger at 4 – 5 inches (10 – 12 cm)
HOUSING: Egyptian tortoises MUST be housed in a dry, warm environment with low ambient humidity. This must be taken into consideration when arranging housing for them. Upon exposure to a humid environment, even if warm, many of these tortoises fare very poorly and rapidly decline. This is a species that has evolved a very strict niche over the years and one that does not fare well outside that niche. While most species of tortoises respond well and do much better with outdoor maintenance, this species tends to do best in indoor accommodations unless they are being maintained in a low humidity, high temperature climate. Egyptian tortoises tend to bury themselves in the topsoil or under the base of clumps of grass, regardless of being maintained indoors or out. Opportunities to practice this natural behavior should be provided for.
HOUSING EGYPTIAN TORTOISES INDOORS: - The most useful form of indoor accommodation for Egyptian Tortoises consists of a “turtle tableâ€. To all appearances this looks like a bookshelf unit flipped onto its back. A reasonable size for a single specimen is 2 feet by 3 feet, (60 cm by 90 cm). If keeping more than one together, the size of this habitat should be increased along with providing sightline breaks and opportunities to blend into their surroundings for this easily stressed species. For a pair of adult Egyptian tortoises the indoor habitat should be at least 4 feet by 2 feet, (120 cm by 60 cm). Into the bottom of this “turtle table†holes can be cut to allow for the sinking of food, water, and nesting containers flush with the surface for easier animal access.
Many T. kleinmanni will not make use of a water dish. For those that will utilize one, the water dish in the habitat should be large enough to allow the tortoise to soak in it if it wishes - it must also be shallow enough to protect it from drowning. Small photographic developing trays work well for this purpose. Due to the nature of this species, one of the authors places his animals in a soak bowl once a week to maintain hydration. As a substrate, the dry portion of the environment should consist of a mixture of sand and clean topsoil. Some keepers use a combination of topsoil and chicken grit (crushed coarse limestone) as a substrate. As an alternative to these substrates grass hay serves admirably and is preferred by the authors. Grass hay provides supplemental food as well as a burrowing substrate that does not “hold†humidity. Due to the rapid degradation of hay when it gets damp, it should be monitored closely and changed as needed.
In one corner of the environment a hardware store reflector clip light lamp should be positioned to provide artificial basking facilities. This should be positioned to provide a basking spot of 90 – 95 degrees F (32 – 35 degrees C) in that section of the habitat. The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 syntheses (an essential component of calcium metabolism). A Mercury vapor bulb may be used to fulfill both heat and UV requirements. Some keepers have had excellent success with using both a mercury vapor light to provide UVB and daytime heat as well as a ceramic heat emitter on 24 hours over one end of a habitat to provide a temperature gradient. Both the Mercury vapor light and the ceramic heat emitter mentioned above it is advised that one use a fixture with a ceramic lamp holder, as these are both very hot. Fixtures should also be affixed in such a manner that they cannot contact the possibly flammable substrate. There should be a hide box located in the corner away from the basking spot to allow the animal a cool, dim retreat. This is an extremely important component particularly for this species.
The combination of its small size and beautiful golden color has made Testudo kleinmanni a much sought after addition to tortoise collections. This popularity within the pet trade is second only to habitat loss in terms of impacting the overall wild populations. The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) lists Testudo kleinmanni as an Appendix I species, affording it the highest possible protection. The Egyptian tortoise is also listed as Endangered on the World Conservation Union (IUCN) Red List, which is the second highest designation.
T. kleinmanni is a difficult species to maintain and should not be considered an appropriate species for the beginning tortoise keeper. Found from Libya to Israel, they are extremely well adapted to their native arid environment; unfortunately this very adaptation to extreme conditions leaves them vulnerable when we attempt to maintain them in our “human†temperate world. Only if one is willing to go to great lengths to duplicate their natural environment should keeping and breeding this species be attempted. Only captive hatched animals should be obtained. The combination of shipping stress, exposure to foreign pathogens, and minimal physical reserves due to their diminutive size results in the vast majority of wild caught specimens perishing, even with aggressive medical care.
As indicated by their light coloration, T. kleinmanni originate in sandy / rocky areas. Evolving a darker coloration in such an area would make a tortoise easy prey for any predator. Their small size allows them to warm quickly after cold desert nights and their reflective rather than absorptive carapace color allows them to extend their time foraging during the day before the desert heat drives them under cover. Male Egyptian tortoises are typically 3 – 4 inches (8 – 10 cm) in length as adults, while females are somewhat larger at 4 – 5 inches (10 – 12 cm)
HOUSING: Egyptian tortoises MUST be housed in a dry, warm environment with low ambient humidity. This must be taken into consideration when arranging housing for them. Upon exposure to a humid environment, even if warm, many of these tortoises fare very poorly and rapidly decline. This is a species that has evolved a very strict niche over the years and one that does not fare well outside that niche. While most species of tortoises respond well and do much better with outdoor maintenance, this species tends to do best in indoor accommodations unless they are being maintained in a low humidity, high temperature climate. Egyptian tortoises tend to bury themselves in the topsoil or under the base of clumps of grass, regardless of being maintained indoors or out. Opportunities to practice this natural behavior should be provided for.
HOUSING EGYPTIAN TORTOISES INDOORS: - The most useful form of indoor accommodation for Egyptian Tortoises consists of a “turtle tableâ€. To all appearances this looks like a bookshelf unit flipped onto its back. A reasonable size for a single specimen is 2 feet by 3 feet, (60 cm by 90 cm). If keeping more than one together, the size of this habitat should be increased along with providing sightline breaks and opportunities to blend into their surroundings for this easily stressed species. For a pair of adult Egyptian tortoises the indoor habitat should be at least 4 feet by 2 feet, (120 cm by 60 cm). Into the bottom of this “turtle table†holes can be cut to allow for the sinking of food, water, and nesting containers flush with the surface for easier animal access.
Many T. kleinmanni will not make use of a water dish. For those that will utilize one, the water dish in the habitat should be large enough to allow the tortoise to soak in it if it wishes - it must also be shallow enough to protect it from drowning. Small photographic developing trays work well for this purpose. Due to the nature of this species, one of the authors places his animals in a soak bowl once a week to maintain hydration. As a substrate, the dry portion of the environment should consist of a mixture of sand and clean topsoil. Some keepers use a combination of topsoil and chicken grit (crushed coarse limestone) as a substrate. As an alternative to these substrates grass hay serves admirably and is preferred by the authors. Grass hay provides supplemental food as well as a burrowing substrate that does not “hold†humidity. Due to the rapid degradation of hay when it gets damp, it should be monitored closely and changed as needed.
In one corner of the environment a hardware store reflector clip light lamp should be positioned to provide artificial basking facilities. This should be positioned to provide a basking spot of 90 – 95 degrees F (32 – 35 degrees C) in that section of the habitat. The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 syntheses (an essential component of calcium metabolism). A Mercury vapor bulb may be used to fulfill both heat and UV requirements. Some keepers have had excellent success with using both a mercury vapor light to provide UVB and daytime heat as well as a ceramic heat emitter on 24 hours over one end of a habitat to provide a temperature gradient. Both the Mercury vapor light and the ceramic heat emitter mentioned above it is advised that one use a fixture with a ceramic lamp holder, as these are both very hot. Fixtures should also be affixed in such a manner that they cannot contact the possibly flammable substrate. There should be a hide box located in the corner away from the basking spot to allow the animal a cool, dim retreat. This is an extremely important component particularly for this species.
