Wood?

[bllauben]

I am wondering what type of wood would be best to build a tortoise table out of? I live in south east michigan (if that matters). I want something affordable that's not going to cause health problems with my tortoises. I'm going to go through Home Depot for my supplies.

Thanks!
--Beth

 

[Yvonne G]

I have used plywood for mine. You don't really have to worry about the lumber you buy at places like that because its been dried and doesn't contain the harmful oils anymore. Its usually one the bark chips you have to be concerned about.

 

[bllauben]

I have used plywood for mine. You don't really have to worry about the lumber you buy at places like that because its been dried and doesn't contain the harmful oils anymore. Its usually one the bark chips you have to be concerned about.

Thanks! That's what I was concerned about. Can I use a sealer on it and still be safe for the torts? Of course, the torts won't be moved in it until a week or two after I finish it.

 

[Yvonne G]

Yes or even water-proof paint.

 

[tortoisenerd]

Yes, plywood is the most affordable. Pine looks a bit nicer but increases the cost (we did this). More rarely people might want to use something nice like oak. I would avoid cedar as its the most aromatic, but besides that, nothing to worry about with wood & sealant choices for tort tables. A water-based polyurethane sealant works well, but requires many coats, and typically you also want to use a plastic liner like pond liner, shower pan liner, or a very heavy duty shower curtain. Home Depot has shower pan liner, although its pricey as its very thick. Pond liner is more seasonal. The shower curtains are cheapest but not as thick. A staple gun works well for that.

Yes, a week or so to air out is a good time frame. Make sure the sides are high enough for deep substrate plus the tort climbing vertically on any cage furnishings against a wall (many underestimate how high walls should be). Home Depot and such will cut the boards to length for you for free or very cheap, so its easy to assemble if you don't have the tools at home. We used finishing nails with brackets for extra support, but next time I'd just do screws. Plywood will give you the most choices in board dimensions too. Also consider what you are going to put the enclosure on (it needs to be up off the floor). For example, we built it to fit exactly on top of a storage cabinet and that worked nicely. If you have the tools, you can build a stand with shelves and maybe even an overhead system to hang lights & heat.

Its best to go big and block off part if needed than have to go through the table building in another year or few as your torts grow (no matter how big you make it the first time, if they are growing, it still needs to expand). Good luck!

 

[PeanutbuttER]

I used plywood and 2x4s for the bottom of mine, but for the walls I used the big shelving boards. They're already a good height, and the tops are smoothed out, so you just get them cut to size and tack them on to your table. If you come with the right measurements, Home Depot can cut them to size for you when you buy them.

Of course, they're made out of particle board which is kinda ugly so you'd need to paint them after you put them up. I stained mine with a dark reddish stain and it turned out looking very nice.

 

[bllauben]

Here's the plans. I'm getting more than plenty back on my federal tax return to pay for this. From my calculations, I am going to spend approximately $300.
This is the top view:


Here's a 3-D drawing:


The river rock I plan to use is way too big for the tortoises to eat. I am using it as decoration.

I am also capping my corners. The substrate is going to be about 6 inches deep. Nothing is going by the walls, except the plants.

The tile I am using is scratch resistant.
MARAZZI Orizzonti, Sunset, 12 In. x 12 In. Ceramic Residential Tile

I hope to have this done by April 21-the day I go to Ohio to pick up my baby sister for spring break.

Thanks for the info!

 

[tortoisenerd]

Nice! Why so much tile? How many square feet? Just under 20? From what I see, I think you'll need a lot more than one bulb. For the MVB, if you put it more in the middle instead of against a wall, you'll get more area heated with it. The Zoo Med large lamp stands have an arm that will travel almost to the center of my 35 inch width enclosure (maybe 15 inches). For example, in my 17 sq ft enclosure, I have a 100 Watt MVB, a 100 Watt light bulb, and two 60 Watt heat emitters, one if which stays on at night in winter for if my tort chooses to use it (65 F house day, 60 F night). Unless of course you are just heating the whole room/area. You'll want hides in the substrate area too. I don't see the need for the windows, but I don't see any harm in it. Good luck! I love the plans...I'm an engineer and draw up similar plans for tort enclosures.

 

[bllauben]

I wanted the tile (9 square feet-approximately) because Boris and Sonya have a habit of dragging their food out into the dirt. Plus, my cat loves "visiting" her friends and I am tired of cleaning up the substrate she drags out in her fur. She'll lay on the tile before she lays on the substrate. The windows are there because they love watching the country music station and animal planet.

I am seriously considering moving the light towards the middle of the substrate. I might get some CHE's (I believe that's what they are) for the tile area. Yet, with the temperature we keep our apartment, we might not need it. We try to keep it around 70-72 degrees in here being that two of our cats are less than 8 pounds in weight.
Thanks!

 

[tortoisenerd]

I don't get why you'd want more than like 4 tiles for that purpose, but whatever works best. You'll want the majority of it to be warmer than room temp (or else they won't use the space), and you will need more light in an enclosure that size too (Russians need bright light). If you don't need night heat and have warm room temps to work with, I'd guess that just one or two house flood light will do, unless the room is dark. I needed the CHEs on top of the light because of the lower room temps. Or, a fluorescent tube or two (I prefer the look of the flood bulbs though so everything matches). I make the MVB a hotter basking temp than the flood bulb and my tort seems to know to bask there. I'd especially be careful with that tile so that it isn't cool to the touch. Once you get it made, test out the lights & heat before putting the torts in so you have an idea of how you need to move things around. An accurate thermometer like a temp gun is key for that. Good luck!

 

[bllauben]

I don't get why you'd want more than like 4 tiles for that purpose, but whatever works best. You'll want the majority of it to be warmer than room temp (or else they won't use the space), and you will need more light in an enclosure that size too (Russians need bright light). If you don't need night heat and have warm room temps to work with, I'd guess that just one or two house flood light will do, unless the room is dark. I needed the CHEs on top of the light because of the lower room temps. Or, a fluorescent tube or two (I prefer the look of the flood bulbs though so everything matches). I make the MVB a hotter basking temp than the flood bulb and my tort seems to know to bask there. I'd especially be careful with that tile so that it isn't cool to the touch. Once you get it made, test out the lights & heat before putting the torts in so you have an idea of how you need to move things around. An accurate thermometer like a temp gun is key for that. Good luck!

So if I decide to use this fixture:Zilla Incandescent 20" Dual Bulb Reptile Fixture

How would I mount that? Could I take a length of cord or some other heat resistant medium and hang it from the ceiling or what?

I already have this and the stand that goes with it.

Sorry for all of the questions! Thanks!