Beginner - Redfoot - heat map??

Hi everyone

My first post so please be gentle!

So glad I came across this community.

We are taking delivery of our baby redfoot tomorrow. Have a vivarium setup. A question about the heating.

I like in the UK and our room temperature is approx 19 degrees C. So I’ve been advised to use a heat map by the pet shop. But they have been very vague apart from saying - keep it on all the time and stick it to the side wall by the hideaway shelter. No thermostat.

I believe I’m trying to achieve a temp of approx 28 degrees C.

How to control the temperature without a thermostat? I have a strip thermometer in the vivarium. I’ve reached 22 degrees so far and still got it on. Will it go too high?

Appreciate any advice as I’m very much a beginner.

Thanks

Welcome to the forum, @Stig060 .

Please keep in mind that torts do need relatively high temperature, as they are cold blooded. I live in Jordan where only Summer really suits Oli (my beloved Greek tort).We've freezing Winter with snow at times, here!

Please post pics of your tort and his enclosure, so as to help us to give you advice more easily. Read the "Beginners Mistakes Thread" and do not hesitate to ask any question when in need of help.

Good luck in keeping your tort warm.

You’ll need a CHE, fluorescent UV strip light, thermostat set to 85f, and a closed chamber. If you search closed chamber threads you’ll get some great ideas and there are plenty of UK members that can recommend brands available over there.

Thanks both of you. I will look into the closed chamber threads. I’m just sooo confused. Every pet shop gives different advice. First time owning a tortoise and amazes me the endless possibilities.

Some are pro heat map and some are against it. I’m guessing everyone’s tortoises are still surviving with both methods???

Sorry for the rant and it’s not directed at you both. But it’s very difficult as a beginner. Pet shops sell you stuff and expect you to then google everything.

Stig060 said:

Thanks both of you. I will look into the closed chamber threads. I’m just sooo confused. Every pet shop gives different advice. First time owning a tortoise and amazes me the endless possibilities.

Some are pro heat map and some are against it. I’m guessing everyone’s tortoises are still surviving with both methods???

Sorry for the rant and it’s not directed at you both. But it’s very difficult as a beginner. Pet shops sell you stuff and expect you to then google everything.

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Pet shops, some breeders and unfortunately some vets do not have the right information when it comes to tortoises. They are going by old outdated material. If you stick with us here, you will get the most up to date and correct info. We have many very experienced people here that have bin raising torts for many years and have made major improvements to the way we take care of our tortoises. They have done the leg work and the experiments to improve the way we take care of them.

@Stig060 Welcome to the forum. I noticed you're in the UK, so I want to put you in touch with @JoesMum . She has a wealth of experience with tortoise keeping in the UK and can assist you with information and resources specific to the UK.

Stig060 said:

Hi everyone

My first post so please be gentle!

So glad I came across this community.

We are taking delivery of our baby redfoot tomorrow. Have a vivarium setup. A question about the heating.

I like in the UK and our room temperature is approx 19 degrees C. So I’ve been advised to use a heat map by the pet shop. But they have been very vague apart from saying - keep it on all the time and stick it to the side wall by the hideaway shelter. No thermostat.

I believe I’m trying to achieve a temp of approx 28 degrees C.

How to control the temperature without a thermostat? I have a strip thermometer in the vivarium. I’ve reached 22 degrees so far and still got it on. Will it go too high?

Appreciate any advice as I’m very much a beginner.

Thanks

Click to expand...

I am going to summon @Anyfoot who is a UK breeder of redfoots and can give you the complete rundown

The basics are that a redfoot is a creature of the tropical forest floor. It needs a steady 80F-85F/27-29C and high humidity day and night. It doesn't need a basking lamp, but it does need UVB.

To achieve this you need a closed chamber, ie an enclosure with a lid, a UVB tube lamp and a Ceramic Heat Emitter which must be used with a thermostat.

Your substrate must be an earthy type such as coco coir or fine grade orchid bark which you can mix with water until all of it is evenly damp. The damp Substrate raises humidity in the closed chamber. Buy it from a garden centre, DIY store or Amazon as it will be cheaper.

Things to avoid:

- Any substrate with additives such as calcium pieces, vermiculite, water retention granules, sand or fertilisers. Some petstore substrates have calcium bits in which is ridiculous; why would you encourage your tort to eat the substrate?

- Compact UVB blubs that look like low energy light bulbs as they cause eye problems in tortoises.

- Open tortoise tables

- Pets store reptile bowls as they are both a tipping hazard and hard for torts to use. A terracotta plant saucer makes a great water bowl and a piece of flat rock or slate, or even the back of a ceramic wall tile, makes the best food plate.

I forgot to answer your original question which is that no a heat mat is not recommended. The setup I gave you will provide all your tort needs.

The Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) must be on 24/7, the thermostat ensures it only cuts in as needed, and the UVB fluorescent tube light for 13-14 hours a day (use a timer)

JoesMum said:

I forgot to answer your original question which is that no a heat mat is not recommended. The setup I gave you will provide all your tort needs.

The Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) must be on 24/7, the thermostat ensures it only cuts in as needed, and the UVB fluorescent tube light for 13-14 hours a day (use a timer)

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Thanks this is great advice. Really appreciate it!
Oh and the pet store did also give us a basking lamp!

I’ll go through your list today and get started.

I’m sure I will be in touch soon especially with pictures [emoji4]

JoesMum said:

I forgot to answer your original question which is that no a heat mat is not recommended. The setup I gave you will provide all your tort needs.

The Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) must be on 24/7, the thermostat ensures it only cuts in as needed, and the UVB fluorescent tube light for 13-14 hours a day (use a timer)

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Is this CHE ok?

I answered your post in the other thread, but I will include it here as well.

I'm thinking that's overkill for a tortoise, unless there's something about your setup that makes it necessary. If there's a risk of small children being around, the enclosed cage could protect little fingers from getting burned.

Pastel Tortie said:

I answered your post in the other thread, but I will include it here as well.

I'm thinking that's overkill for a tortoise, unless there's something about your setup that makes it necessary. If there's a risk of small children being around, the enclosed cage could protect little fingers from getting burned.

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Redfoots have very different care than horsefields and other species. They absolutely must be kept over 80 degrees at all times with high humidity. A closed chamber (unless your climate is always above 80 with 80% humidity) is the only way to maintain this species well so not overkill at all. The easiest and cheapest way is to buy a tupperware tote, cut hole for the CHE, and mount the lighting to the lid inside. Total cost is less than $100 for all supplies and tote, it's easy to clean, and you maintain all heat and humidity.

https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/why-wont-skurt-eat.158806/

Here is a link to a thread I started showing his hatchling enclosure for idea.

Stig060 said:

Is this CHE ok?

View attachment 259467

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The picture shows a 100W CHE bulb (what Americans call the lamp that screws into a light fixture).

The 100W CHE should be fine. Start with the 100W CHE, just keep in mind that there are lower wattages (60W or 75W) and higher wattages (150W) if you need to adjust later.

You can use any light fixture you want, PROVIDED: The fixture is rated (labeled) for use with a CHE for at LEAST as high wattage as the CHE you intend to use in it.

You also need a thermostat to automatically turn the CHE OFF when the tortoise enclosure reaches the programmed temperature, as well as turn the CHE ON again when the temperature drops below the programmed temperature.

Any kind of guard or cage around the CHE is merely a safety feature.