Kane Heat Mat

[Doug D]

I am getting an 18x18 Kane Heat Mat and a 40 watt radiant heat panel for my two Hermann’s tortoises new outdoor 2 x 3 hide box.

My question is do I need to get the Kane Mat that comes with a thermostat if I already have a Vivarium Electronics VE-200 proportional thermostat that I bought with my RHP? Can I plug both into the VE-200 and be ok? Or do I need a separate thermostat for each heat source.

Thanks!

 

[Tom]

I am getting an 18x18 Kane Heat Mat and a 40 watt radiant heat panel for my two Hermann’s tortoises new outdoor 2 x 3 hide box.

My question is do I need to get the Kane Mat that comes with a thermostat if I already have a Vivarium Electronics VE-200 proportional thermostat that I bought with my RHP? Can I plug both into the VE-200 and be ok? Or do I need a separate thermostat for each heat source.

Thanks!

You can plug both into the same thermostat, but that is overkill. A simple $20-30 thermostat is all you need for this application. Those two heating items will maintain ambient in the box, but you really only need it to stay above 60, and you'll only really need that in the spring and fall. In summer it can be un[plugged. In winter they will be hibernating.

I made this box for my Chersina. Its divided, and your two tortoises need to be divided too. They should never live as a pair. This box solves that problem easily. Like your hermanni, they hibernate in fall and all winter, and from about May to November, the days are always warm and sunny here, so I don't need any more supplemental heat. I use the mini radiant oil heater to keep ambient above 60, same as your Kane mat and RHP, but I needed a way for them to warm up on a cold spring day after waking from hibernation, and also a way to let them warm up in fall as I prepare them for hibernation. They need to get warm to empty their gut. Here is how I solved these problems:

There is a divider in the box, and the heat lamps are on a timer. I only use the heat lamps during cold ugly days in Spring and Fall.

 

[Doug D]

Ok, thanks! I learn something new every day. I will just get one of the simple thermostats that are cheaper.

So when they are hibernating in the winter (in the hide box I assume?) you don’t need the heat to be on? Do they just burrow down for the entire winter and don’t eat or drink?

 

[Tom]

Ok, thanks! I learn something new every day. I will just get one of the simple thermostats that are cheaper.

So when they are hibernating in the winter (in the hide box I assume?) you don’t need the heat to be on? Do they just burrow down for the entire winter and don’t eat or drink?

Here is the thermostat I usually use for my night boxes:

Zilla 1000 Watt Temperature Controller for sale

1

www.lllreptile.com

I use a digital proportional one on my giant stand up incubator.

What I do for hibernation really depends on the weather. I prefer to use an indoor fridge. Our winters here are not consistently cool enough, and I don't want too much fluctuation. We will have January highs around 85 here one week, and then 50 and rainy the next week. And it varies a lot year to year. If temperatures are correct and stable enough where you are, then yes, in theory, they could hibernate in their box.

 

[Doug Gosney]

Hello all. Red Foot outdoor enclosure. Still a few months away from chilly nights in Houston , but prepping. In addition to overhead best, I have a Kane heat mat. Anybody use cypress mulch or other thin layer of substrate with these mats? Thanks!

 

[Beasty_Artemis]

Nope, heat mats are generally not recommended. Probably lean in a different direction, like overhead lighting, one way or another. A good heat in the room with the enclosures is also recommended by me.

 

[Ray--Opo]

JJust saw this post. Don't intentionally put substrate on the mat. Your tort will drag some on it. Just brush off occasionally don't let it build up on the mat. Substrate under the mat is not a problem.
Not sure why the other member suggested to lean in a different direction. Many members use Kane or Sheffeild mats.

 

[wellington]

Nope, heat mats are generally not recommended. Probably lean in a different direction, like overhead lighting, one way or another. A good heat in the room with the enclosures is also recommended by me.

Heat mats are recommended as long as there is a heat source above it. If it's just the mat, the tortoise could stay on it too long trying to get its carapace warmed and then burn its plastron.
Both should be on a thermostat.
Heat mats not recommended for hatchlings or young torts, adults or those of the right size to live outside 24/7

 

[Ray--Opo]

You can plug both into the same thermostat, but that is overkill. A simple $20-30 thermostat is all you need for this application. Those two heating items will maintain ambient in the box, but you really only need it to stay above 60, and you'll only really need that in the spring and fall. In summer it can be un[plugged. In winter they will be hibernating.

I made this box for my Chersina. Its divided, and your two tortoises need to be divided too. They should never live as a pair. This box solves that problem easily. Like your hermanni, they hibernate in fall and all winter, and from about May to November, the days are always warm and sunny here, so I don't need any more supplemental heat. I use the mini radiant oil heater to keep ambient above 60, same as your Kane mat and RHP, but I needed a way for them to warm up on a cold spring day after waking from hibernation, and also a way to let them warm up in fall as I prepare them for hibernation. They need to get warm to empty their gut. Here is how I solved these problems:

There is a divider in the box, and the heat lamps are on a timer. I only use the heat lamps during cold ugly days in Spring and Fall.

We had talked a few weeks ago about trays of water. Are the trays in these pics to help with humidity? Being this post is a few years old. Did the trays work properly if you were using for humidity?

 

[Doug Gosney]

JJust saw this post. Don't intentionally put substrate on the mat. Your tort will drag some on it. Just brush off occasionally don't let it build up on the mat. Substrate under the mat is not a problem.
Not sure why the other member suggested to lean in a different direction. Many members use Kane or Sheffeild mats.

Thanks for the info. Always looking for ideas. I wound up putting a Kane on one of the walls, and a Sweeter Heater Radiant Heat panel on the lid/ceiling of their house. Few inches of cypress mulch on the floor. Live in Houston but we got down to 41 degrees last night. Tort house held temp between 68-70 degrees all night. So far so good! Thanks for the info!

 

[Tom]

We had talked a few weeks ago about trays of water. Are the trays in these pics to help with humidity? Being this post is a few years old. Did the trays work properly if you were using for humidity?

Yes. Any open topped container of water in your night box will evaporate and increase humidity. Buckets, trays, tubs, etc... The more surface area, the more evaporation you will get. Smaller doors and reduced ventilation will help contain your humidity.

 

[Ray--Opo]

Yes. Any open topped container of water in your night box will evaporate and increase humidity. Buckets, trays, tubs, etc... The more surface area, the more evaporation you will get. Smaller doors and reduced ventilation will help contain your humidity.

What is the lowest height of the door could I get away with? I know you recommend 26". I am hoping this will be the last box for awhile. There is no wood, all PVC expanded board. I guess I could start with a smaller door opening and alter if needed as he grows.

 

[Tom]

What is the lowest height of the door could I get away with? I know you recommend 26". I am hoping this will be the last box for awhile. There is no wood, all PVC expanded board. I guess I could start with a smaller door opening and alter if needed as he grows.

I like to build sulcata boxes with a door that is 26 inches wide and 16 inches tall. This will accommodate large adult males, unless you have a Sudan sulcata.

For smaller tortoises, I then get a rectangle of plywood that is about 2 inches larger than the door opening, cut out a door hole just large enough for the current size of the tortoise, and screw that to the wall inside the door way. As the tortoise grows, keep enlarging the hole until you eventually remove that whole piece of plywood and use the entire door opening. This is much easier than trying to enlarge the framed door opening as a tortoise grows, or having to build a new box because the door is too small.

 

[GreatWest]

Hi Tom,
So many choices for heat. For a 32" tall side to 24" tall short side. 48"x84" insulated hide for African Spur In Vegas . Option A - RHP on lid and pig matt below that both set to single 70deg controller . Opt.B or this 1500wat infred wall mount or maybe 1000 watt . These have wifi coms and controls. What do you think?

And Thanks again!
Vince

Heat Storm HS-1500-PHX-WIFI Infrared Heater, Wifi Wall Mounted​

 

[Tom]

Hi Tom,
So many choices for heat. For a 32" tall side to 24" tall short side. 48"x84" insulated hide for African Spur In Vegas . Option A - RHP on lid and pig matt below that both set to single 70deg controller . Opt.B or this 1500wat infred wall mount or maybe 1000 watt . These have wifi coms and controls. What do you think?

And Thanks again!
Vince

Heat Storm HS-1500-PHX-WIFI Infrared Heater, Wifi Wall Mounted​

I have no experience with 1500 watt infrared wall mounts, but that sounds like too much, and I would not want a wall mount next tot he tortoise.

I use the RHP/Kane mat combo on all my 4x4 boxes, and it works great. I don't know why you would only set your thermostat to 70. It needs to be at least 80, and more like 86 in winter when the days are cold.

Your box is bigger than 4x4, so the mini radiant oil heaters will probably serve your needs best.

Here are those two methods in practice:

Single Tortoise Night Box

I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll...

tortoiseforum.org

Double Door Night Box

As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...

tortoiseforum.org

 

[Ray--Opo]

I like to build sulcata boxes with a door that is 26 inches wide and 16 inches tall. This will accommodate large adult males, unless you have a Sudan sulcata.

For smaller tortoises, I then get a rectangle of plywood that is about 2 inches larger than the door opening, cut out a door hole just large enough for the current size of the tortoise, and screw that to the wall inside the door way. As the tortoise grows, keep enlarging the hole until you eventually remove that whole piece of plywood and use the entire door opening. This is much easier than trying to enlarge the framed door opening as a tortoise grows, or having to build a new box because the door is too small.

Thanks for telling me that. I thought it was the other way around. 26" tall and 16" wide. Good thing I haven't finished the door yet. I have the electrician coming over tomorrow to run a dedicated circuit to the box. Last year I had a problem a few times. With the GFI popping during Xmas season. With the outside Xmas lights on the same circuit. Kills me to have someone else doing the work. But it is what it is.