1.5 year old red foot wheezing

[Mrs.Campos3]

We noticed our red foot started wheezing while breathing about two months ago. They are also being a bit skittish about their head which they usually aren't and always on the warm side of the enclosure. We havent brought them in because they actually seem business as usual. They are active, eating great, adventurous and even playful when we let them roam a bit. No mucus from nose, no watery eyes...I don't get it...wheezing is usually an early URI sign but they aren't showing other signs of being sick. Humidity is 80% + over all temp is 80°f and 90°f on warm side. We bath them every other day. Should I take them to see the exotic animal vet in my area, or do I just have a wheezer?

 

[wellington]

You mentioned they. How many is they? Are they in a shared enclosure?
How old and big are they?
How big is the enclosure?
Tortoises kept in pairs and in toi small of an enclosure live under high stress levels. This high stress can bring on illness or death and signs of Illness without being ill yet!

 

[TaraMaiden]

In my humble and uneducated opinion - I'd ALWAYS get a new and unusual behaviour trait checked, particularly if it seems allied to possible issues. Tortoises take a long time to manifest problems, by which time, the problem MIGHT be advanced. Too risky. Take him to the vet.

 

[wellington]

In my humble and uneducated opinion - I'd ALWAYS get a new and unusual behaviour trait checked, particularly if it seems allied to possible issues. Tortoises take a long time to manifest problems, by which time, the problem MIGHT be advanced. Too risky. Take him to the vet.

Always running to a vet can be more dangerous to a tortoise then trying to figure out what's going on and correcting treating symptoms. Running to a vet should not be the first step.

 

[Mrs.Campos3]

You mentioned they. How many is they? Are they in a shared enclosure?
How old and big are they?
How big is the enclosure?
Tortoises kept in pairs and in toi small of an enclosure live under high stress levels. This high stress can bring on illness or death and signs of Illness without being ill yet!

I use they cause we don't know if it's a male or female yet. It's just the one red foot. 210g 4 inches.

 

[wellington]

Okay good.
So can we get a pic of the tort and the enclosure
What are you using to read temps?

 

[Mrs.Campos3]

Okay good.
So can we get a pic of the tort and the enclosure
What are you using to read temps?

I think I figured out the warm corner thing. I need a new temp gage. I used my laser thermometer just now and the temps are a little lower then I want them to be. Not much...its 75 "cool side" and 85 "warm spot they like" and 95 under CHE. They're also smacking their mouth. I read that normal though?

 

[Mrs.Campos3]

Okay good.
So can we get a pic of the tort and the enclosure
What are you using to read temps?

Oh and it's more of a whistle then a wheeze. And it's only on the exhale.

 

[wellington]

Usually when it's that minor it is that temps aren't what the human thinks they are.
Hopefully an easy fix and all will be good.

 

[Mrs.Campos3]

Usually when it's that minor it is that temps aren't what the human thinks they are.
Hopefully an easy fix and all will be good.

So shouldn't worry? It's just been going on for a little while and would really love to get rid of the whistle. Lol. Also. How can I get the temps up in the over all enclosure? Put the CHE in the middle? It's off to one side right now.

 

[wellington]

You will have to try a couple things. Either move che or lower it. Compare your temps with the caresheet just to be sure they are off.
@ZEROPILOT can help with proper temps.
If temps are fine or get corrected whichever is needed and the whistle doesn't get better or things get worse then a vet visit may be needed. Be sure there is nothing blocking a nostril.
And adjust anything needing adjusting according to the caresheet.

 

[Mrs.Campos3]

You will have to try a couple things. Either move che or lower it. Compare your temps with the caresheet just to be sure they are off.
@ZEROPILOT can help with proper temps.
If temps are fine or get corrected whichever is needed and the whistle doesn't get better or things get worse then a vet visit may be needed. Be sure there is nothing blocking a nostril.
And adjust anything needing adjusting according to the caresheet.

We're gunna get a new CHE too. When we first got it it got the whole enclosure nice and warm. Maybe it's lost some power.

 

[wellington]

We're gunna get a new CHE too. When we first got it it got the whole enclosure nice and warm. Maybe it's lost some power.

Possibly if it's an off brand one. The name brand ones last forever.

 

[Mrs.Campos3]

It's a zoo med

 

[Beasty_Artemis]

Probably just loud breathing

 

[wellington]

It's a zoo med

Yea not likely going bad. Good way to tell is get a temp gun. They are around 10 bucks or so. They are great for point and shoot temps all over the enclosure. You could temp the Che

 

[Mrs.Campos3]

Yea not likely going bad. Good way to tell is get a temp gun. They are around 10 bucks or so. They are great for point and shoot temps all over the enclosure. You could temp the Che

We've also noticed he like the darker corners. He's not a fan of his UV light.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

We've also noticed he like the darker corners. He's not a fan of his UV light.

Describe the "UV LIGHT".
I'm imaging the wrong type and it's too bright and it's causing distress.
You need a T5 HO strip florescent tube UVB. Or the newer LED strip UVB. Anything else. Like a MVB or a "3 in 1" or any manner of the coiled screw in UVB bulbs (Tubes) all have their own issues. And if you ask me they should all be avoided. In fact, a few hours of real sunlight a week can totally replace the need for any other source.
95 is too hot. Period. No area should be over 87. With 83 being perfect. Redfoot need warmth 24/7. Not high heat. Gentle lighting 12 hours a day. 12 hours of "night" with no light. Just a CHE if needed.
A proper UVB source as described above and constant humidity of over 76%.
Do you need help with the diet?

 

[Mrs.Campos3]

Describe the "UV LIGHT".
I'm imaging the wrong type and it's too bright and it's causing distress.
You need a T5 HO strip florescent tube UVB. Or the newer LED strip UVB. Anything else. Like a MVB or a "3 in 1" or any manner of the coiled screw in UVB bulbs (Tubes) all have their own issues. And if you ask me they should all be avoided. In fact, a few hours of real sunlight a week can totally replace the need for any other source.
95 is too hot. Period. No area should be over 87. With 83 being perfect. Redfoot need warmth 24/7. Not high heat. Gentle lighting 12 hours a day. 12 hours of "night" with no light. Just a CHE if needed.
A proper UVB source as described above and constant humidity of over 76%.
Do you need help with the diet?

We have the right bulb. I think we have the light to low into the enclosure. How many inches should the uv be from the substrate?

 

[ZEROPILOT]

We have the right bulb. I think we have the light to low into the enclosure. How many inches should the uv be from the substrate?

Is it a 5.0 or a 10.0?