Arthur is not eating and I can't work out what to do!

[Curlybird]

Arthur has not been well recently. He had runny nose syndrome. We took him to the vet and got antibiotics. On the vet's advice (reptile specialist), we changed his set up from a vivarium to a tortoise table. The temperature under the heat/uv lamp is 32C to 34C and in the twenties everywhere else.
The problem is his appetite. Since being on the meds, he has eaten less and less. He's been off them for a week now and still no change. He's no longer blowing bubbles and is far more active than he has ever been! He is bathed daily and I bathed him yesterday in baby purée.
The vet suggested a vitamin B injection to boost his appetite but I am wary of that because of the stories I have heard on here. I apologise for the long post but I'm at a loss to know what to do for the best. Any advice would be gratefully received.

 

[dmmj]

antibiotics will affect appetite very easily for a while. It's Not Unusual at all, as for the Vitamin shot I would have avoid it like the plague if your vet believes he needs vitamins water soluble vitamins usually sold for Birds is a much easier and safer way of getting vitamin into your tortoise. That would be my recommendation

 

[JoesMum]

Joe took an age to recover his full appetite after his URI.

As you are in the UK, please note that autumn is now upon us and the decreasing light levels seem to affect torts even when they're kept indoors.

Joe started to slow down and his appetite has dropped off.

I also recommend that you add Reptoboost to his soaking water and soak him for a good 30 minutes every day until his appetite returns. My herp vet recommended it as it's a probiotic combination of pro-biotic, electrolytes (helps with rehydration) and vitamins and good for tortoise recovery. You can buy it from Amazon.

Use a high sided bowl that he can't see through or over and the water should be warm, not hot (think baby bath, and come just up over the line between his shell and plastron. I find doing it first thing in the morning most successful and Joe was/is usually ready to eat straight after, even during his URI recovery.

 

[Curlybird]

Thanks for your help. I'll get some soluble vitamins/reptoboost as soon as I can. Do I need to add more light as I'm not ready for hibernation (and neither is Arthur)?

Is critical care the same as reptoboost? My local shop only has that at the moment.

 

[JoesMum]

I have no idea about critical care. I only use reptoboost as that was what my vet recommended.

I get it online from Amazon, eBay or Northampton Reptile Supplies depending on where it's cheapest.

I also use it in soaks as soon as Joe comes out of hibernation.

 

[ascott]

Arthur has not been well recently. He had runny nose syndrome. We took him to the vet and got antibiotics. On the vet's advice (reptile specialist), we changed his set up from a vivarium to a tortoise table. The temperature under the heat/uv lamp is 32C to 34C and in the twenties everywhere else.
The problem is his appetite. Since being on the meds, he has eaten less and less. He's been off them for a week now and still no change. He's no longer blowing bubbles and is far more active than he has ever been! He is bathed daily and I bathed him yesterday in baby purée.
The vet suggested a vitamin B injection to boost his appetite but I am wary of that because of the stories I have heard on here. I apologise for the long post but I'm at a loss to know what to do for the best. Any advice would be gratefully received.

Those temps are kinda low and a bit moody...I would offer a basking spot which reaches 100-110 to allow for tort to increase core temp which aids in digestion and in turn kicks in appetite...you also say you changed his enclosure. . that also will affect a torts overall behavior due to his new world..if the tort went through antibiotics that also can create an appetite disturbance...

I would offer up romaine lettuce, spinach, sweet potato, collard greens..foods high in vit a and b for a few weeks...I also would avoid any vitamin shots..

On top of the other issues, you have a species of tort that is naturally designed to brumate..so there is that too..you may want to add a bulb for light and then leave the lights on a couple hours longer than normal..as well as use a night heat source..and keep in mind that even if you try to fool the tort into thinking it is not winter..his natural pull may win..since his system has been compromised by the antibiotics and stress from the new enclosure and low temps in the enclosure..it would be a good idea to not support brumation..but to realize you will need to make sure he remains active even if he may be pulled into brumation..

 

[Curlybird]

Those temps are kinda low and a bit moody...I would offer a basking spot which reaches 100-110 to allow for tort to increase core temp which aids in digestion and in turn kicks in appetite...you also say you changed his enclosure. . that also will affect a torts overall behavior due to his new world..if the tort went through antibiotics that also can create an appetite disturbance...

I would offer up romaine lettuce, spinach, sweet potato, collard greens..foods high in vit a and b for a few weeks...I also would avoid any vitamin shots..

On top of the other issues, you have a species of tort that is naturally designed to brumate..so there is that too..you may want to add a bulb for light and then leave the lights on a couple hours longer than normal..as well as use a night heat source..and keep in mind that even if you try to fool the tort into thinking it is not winter..his natural pull may win..since his system has been compromised by the antibiotics and stress from the new enclosure and low temps in the enclosure..it would be a good idea to not support brumation..but to realize you will need to make sure he remains active even if he may be pulled into brumation..

What do you mean by moody? All I meant was the temperature starts at 32 when the light is first on then goes up to 34 after the first hour. Everywhere I've read says that 32 is a good temp.

I realise all of these changes will have an affect on Arthur. We changed his set up to avoid him becoming sick again in the future upon advice from a reptile vet. He's been in it for almost a month now.

I thought spinach was bad as it binds calcium absorption or something like that.

In a reply post I said that I didn't want him to hibernate (as he had been poorly and is not heavy or robust enough to survive it).

You make it sound like I'm doing everything wrong when I'm only trying my best and want a happy, healthy tortoise

 

[ascott]

What do you mean by moody? All I meant was the temperature starts at 32 when the light is first on then goes up to 34 after the first hour. Everywhere I've read says that 32 is a good temp.

I realise all of these changes will have an affect on Arthur. We changed his set up to avoid him becoming sick again in the future upon advice from a reptile vet. He's been in it for almost a month now.

I thought spinach was bad as it binds calcium absorption or something like that.

In a reply post I said that I didn't want him to hibernate (as he had been poorly and is not heavy or robust enough to survive it).

You make it sound like I'm doing everything wrong when I'm only trying my best and want a happy, healthy tortoise

Hold on...nothing I have said was said on my part as an attack on you...so do not create something out of nothing...

Spinach alone is bad...but as part of a varied diet it is necessary and beneficial..as part of a varied diet there is absolutely no harm with it...here you said "or something like that" ..really...?

What I mean b y moody is to go from 85 to 90 under basking spt down to mid sities is abrupt..hence my reference to the word moody being used...you said out of the basking spot the temps drop..

You are the one that brought up hibernation, I simply conferred that yes keeping the tort awake and not allowing brumation is correct in THIS situation..and pointed out that may end up being a task..

Now, you apparently are new to tortoise keeping so don't be mad at me if some of your efforts did not work outas you hoped...hence the reason I believe you are here right..?

So if we can not have a civil adult conversation without you pulling out the " you make it sound like am doing everything wrong" card and not realize I am simply offering my input..then I don't know what to tell you.. I am not on this forum to be judged in how I may possibly be less than sensitive to a delicate snowflake...seriously?

 

[Curlybird]

I apologise for being rude. That was not my intention. Reading words can lead to misinterpretation of tone. Thank you for your advice. I will reread your post and try to take it on board. I'm sorry.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

To put you at ease a bit....I had a very ill tortoise get antibiotic shots for several days. Administered by myself. The antibiotics killed whatever pathogen was making her ill, but also decreased her gut flora and made digestion almost impossible. She went without eating ANYTHING for weeks. And very little after that for a few weeks more.
A tortoise with some weight on it, that does drink water, can go a long, long time without eating and still recover fully.
I soaked my girl in PEDIALITE every other day.

 

[Tom]

My issue with treating RI in tortoises is that most vets treat the symptoms without addressing and correcting the CAUSE. Most of the time the cause is low temperatures. A basking spot of 32-34, is just too low in my experience. Have you ever gone out and used and infrared temp gun on the ground or a rock sitting in the sun? It is MUCH higher than 32-34. Your indoor basking area is meant to simulate a sunny spot outside where the tortoise could go bask to warm up its core. If the basking area is only 32-34, it can't get warm enough. Shoot for 36-37.

Additionally, it is usually helpful when combating illness, especially a RI, to keep the tortoise a bit warmer than normal overall. This means nights temps and day time ambient, as well. You might need a ceramic heating element controlled by a thermostat for this, and it is much easier to accomplish in a vivarium than an open topped enclosure, unless the whole room is kept warmer.

 

[Curlybird]

Thanks everyone for your help and reassurance. I will try everything. Thanks again.

 

[Curlybird]

Thank you for all of the advice. Arthur is beginning to eat a little. So I'll continue to keep him warm (temps 38-40 now) and give him reptoboost as advised. I'm still worried but things are looking up!