Basking Bulb vs ceramic heat emitter

[lloydw780]

Currently building my Hermans tortoise table to upgrade him from his current 4x2. I read somewhere that it’s recommended to use a heat emitter vs a basking bulb. Any thoughts ? I have Arcadia lighting for UVB and smart LEDs for the live plants so I wouldn’t mind losing the light of the basking bulb.
Thanks !

 

[wellington]

Bulbs are recommended because it lights up like the sun that they would naturally use to bask.
If you use a che by the uvb strip light then a che is okay.

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

As long as the basking spot is brighter than the others there won't be a problem.

 

[jaizei]

A CHE does not direct the heat as a basking bulb would. CHE are better for overall ambient heating. Its the difference between you sitting outside in the shade on a hot day vs being in direct sunlight. The basking bulb is like sun rays that heat the tortoise directly.

 

[Tom]

CHEs are for maintaining ambient temps. You need an incandescent flood bulb for basking.

Here is a breakdown of the four heating and lighting essentials:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.htmlA good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.

 

[Tortoise Mom TRAVIS 2025]

Bulbs are recommended because it lights up like the sun that they would naturally use to bask.
If you use a che by the uvb strip light then a che is okay.

ALL THE LITES INCLUDING THE NIGHT RED LITES CAN BLIND YOUR ANIMALS. JUST LIKE A HUMAN LOOKING AT A LIGHT. YOU NEED TO BLOCK IT WITH A CIRCLE PLATE SO THE LIGHT IS DIFFUSE.

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

ALL THE LITES INCLUDING THE NIGHT RED LITES CAN BLIND YOUR ANIMALS. JUST LIKE A HUMAN LOOKING AT A LIGHT. YOU NEED TO BLOCK IT WITH A CIRCLE PLATE SO THE LIGHT IS DIFFUSE.

Sorry, it's not an accurate statement.
1. Yes, lights should be chosen and installed properly. Too strong lights, mounted too low or installed at angle pointing in tortoise eyes can cause discomfort (not necessarily blindness).
2. Several low brightness light sources are preferred over a single "super bright" spot. E.g. LED bars/strips or UVB tube lamps are generally better. Higher mounted lights are preferred over low hanging.
3. Using domes for bulbs and reflectors (for tubes) helps to direct the light top-down and reduce discomfort. Tilting lights is possible at small angles and when they are placed high enough.
4. Using "circle plate" with UVB lights will block UV.
5. Using "circle plates" with basking lights defeats the purpose of directed heat source. Bulbs with frosted glass have good dispersed light and better than clear glass ones.
6. "Circle plates" sometimes are used with CHEs to disperse heat when "hot spots" are undesirable. E.g. for redfooted tortoise hatchlings (who are prone to pyramiding). However, radiant heat panels are a better choice.
7. Providing light gradient ("light-shade" method) and natural shading (e.g. live plants) are good practices.

 

[wellington]

ALL THE LITES INCLUDING THE NIGHT RED LITES CAN BLIND YOUR ANIMALS. JUST LIKE A HUMAN LOOKING AT A LIGHT. YOU NEED TO BLOCK IT WITH A CIRCLE PLATE SO THE LIGHT IS DIFFUSE.

You are wrong! And red lights shouldn't be used!