Checklist and questions for grow tent enclosure

[nleor623]

So, I've been agonizing over how to do a better enclosure for my red foot, and for now I've settled on using a grow tent, this one in particular. It's Vivosun 4x8, 80" tall.
I'm hoping I can put it on its side to have a floor space of 8 foot by 80", only 4 feet tall.
Note: My tortoise isn't full grown, but I know red foots need a lot of space. I'm going with this option for now because she needs in a better enclosure ASAP. This seemed to be the quickest option (no building involved) and relatively cheap, so its fine if it's not a forever home. I'll probably be back soon with questions on building her that, lol.
For now I'm just looking for help to get her setup right as quickly and easily as possible--I feel like I've read over half the forums the past week, but all the info is scrambled in my head. I have read the care sheets. I have some of this stuff already, but just want to work from a blank canvas to get what's best. On that end if there's anything where there's a certain brand of something I should get, as opposed to just whatever Amazon has that looks good, please let me know!

My checklist for her enclosure:
Tarp/plastic lining
Chains for hanging lights from frame
UV--T5 HO 12% Arcadia or Zoomed, with hood. Should I get the longest possible?
Light-- Ambient LED in 5000-6500k color range, incandescent flood lamp (65w?) for light+heat. I've seen it said that redfoots don't bask so is this necessary?
Heat: CHE or radiant heat panels. I've not used the panels before so unless there's a reason they're preferable, I'll probably use CHE. I assume I'll need 2--what strength should I get?
Thermostat--I have one, but if it doesnt work for this, I think I've seen inkbird 306 recommended.
Timers for Light and UV.
Temp and humidity gauges (suggestions?)
Fixtures--other than chains, what else do I need to be able to mount the bulbs? Do I want domes for the CHE?
Temp gun
I currently use cypress mulch and coco coir substrate, but going to look into orchid bark as well.
I believe the tent comes with a floor tray, but not sure how high its sides are, and if I put the tent on its side I can't use it. I'll have tarp, but any quick and easy ideas for a bottom support?

I'll have terracotta for hides and water, slate for her food. I'll be adding plants and more into her enclosure, but I'm mostly trying to make sure I get all the essential supplies.
Thank you!

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

@Littleredfootbigredheart and @Alex and the Redfoot can advice you on your redfoot set up!

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Hello!
There are many questions, excuse me if I'll miss some (feel free to ask again):
1. You don't need the longest tube for UVB. Minimal size - 24" will be enough. The whole enclosure should be lit like a tropical forest - dense plants canopy with a sun patch.
2. You can use basking bulb in redfoots enclosure, more for the "visual hint" than for temperatures. Place it near the UVB strip for the more full spectrum lightning at the "sun patch". Redfoots bask, but aren't "sun worshippers", so basking bulb isn't essential but beneficial.
3. Ambient lights - "full spectrum", non-colored grow light LEDs are essential if you plan to grow live plants. Place them as high as you can for more diffused light. I would cover 3/4 of the enclosure with ambient lightning.
4. Radiant heat panels are more expensive, give very good heating area coverage and not very effective at distances more than two feet. And as they have large surface you may struggle to fit lightning around them. For the start you can use CHE in wide domes (like chicken brooder lamps). In my opinion two CHEs are not enough, I would opt for 4 of them of lower wattage (like 60-75W) for a 8x6 enclosure.
5. You can use all CHEs on a single thermostat with a powerstrip. Thermostat should be rated for 2x more power than your heaters (most of them, actually). BN-Link and Inkbird are commonly used, so you can get either (even simplest is rated for 1000W).
6. For timers and humidity/temperature sensors you can opt for "smart" sockets and sensors like Govee, TP-Link Tapo and such. Or just get simple digital thermometers from a hardware store (less than 10 bucks for one).
7. For supporting enclosure bottom under tarp you can build a wooden frame covered with plywood/OCB board. Adding castors can be a good idea. This will also help with temperatures (enclosure will be isolated from the ground).
8. You may need to "reinforce" the enclosure frame - with all heating and lightning I cant be sure, that frame won't bend. PVC pipes should be good for that.

 

[wellington]

Is this for indoor or outdoor?
Like said basking bulb isn't needed and it may cause much more heat than needed. Shoot for 85 temps
I would use clothes line rope to hang lights/heat, that's what I used and much easier to adjust and not extra weight on greenhouse frame
Personally 4 ceramic heat emitters would be to much, but it depends on if this is for inside or outside and what your coldest temps get while she/he is in it.
You should consider this type greenhouse. Cheaper
Usually and low enough. They come 3 feet wide but you can get 12 feet long.
You would have to add tarp for floor.

 

[Chubbs the tegu]

i had a 4x8x4 grow tent setup. They hold heat and humidity very well. I had 1 65 watt flood bulb for basking and 2 100 watt che’s for ambient and night heat ( i could have got away with using one) that was in a room that stayed around 68 f

 

[Chubbs the tegu]

As far as the hanging bars.. they can hold way more weight than what ur gonna be hanging so no worries

 

[Chubbs the tegu]

Also just a heads up.. vivosun also has some with extra large viewing windows now. Heres and example

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

Hello and welcome!! You’ve been given some great tips so far on the kind of set up you’re going for(which will work great btw!!) it’s wonderful seeing folks like you, come here already on the right track, I’m going to add some info below, most of which you’re already clearly aware of, but I do cover everything for any new members who come across the threads.
Hopefully it helps give you an idea on how to tackle the set up, if you need anything breaking down, please do ask, more than happy to do that❤️

As you know, adults need a pretty large enclosure, roaming is vital to tortoise health. For an adult red foot, you’re looking at room sized. Outdoors is ideal but only if your climate is right for them. I completely understand if space is an issue right now, we’re in that situation ourselves, 8x6 is a fantastic start though so good for you🙌

If using a light emitting heat source it should be an incandescent floodlight(example attached)on a 12 hour timer, using a CHE(ceramic heat emitter) for night heat. As the others have said, a floodlight can be beneficial but not necessarily imo.

I think ceramics as a heat source are more suited to red foot’s and far less desiccating on their shells.

Red foot’s don’t necessarily need a ‘basking area’ they aren’t typically a basking species coming from the forest floor(some do though, it depends on the individual) there’s no need for a ‘cooler end’ and ‘warmer end’ with these guys, aim for an overall ambient temperature range of 80-86(82-84 being optimal)temps shouldn’t be going below 80 for both night&day.

Personally we rely on CHE’s(ceramic heat emitters) as our heat source 24/7, on thermostats, I think you’ll find it easier switching to these as your heat source to keep your temps nice and stable. When using multiple hang them equal distance to distribute the heat more evenly. I think for your size, the 4 alex suggests on a lower watt will be a good idea, should spread the heat out nicely. Thermostat wise I’d go 1000w.

Large fittings will help project the heat down, but don’t rely on the clamps that come with them, always hang them securely.

You can then hang some ambient lighting on a 12hour timer, it can being either a led strip or a led bulb in 5000k-65000k colour range. Create lots of shady areas with safe plants and hides, red foots don’t like things too bright.

Any indoor UV needs to be provided as a t5 tube fluorescent light, the compact or all in one bulbs either are too harsh creating uv hot spots that can damage their eyes, or are far too weak. The brands you’re looking at are the right ones to go for, I always personally recommend the Arcadia because it comes with the reflector fitting, we personally have 39w but honestly the one down will work fine too🙂

As you probably know, red foot ideally needs around 80% humidity 24/7 to thrive, the right substrate and a good closed chamber set up goes a long way in making this work. You’ll constantly struggle with an open top so it’s good you’re going for a greenhouse.

We personally keep our red foot on orchid bark, we focus on the under layer of the substrate being nice and damp to create the humidity, then the top layer being dry, the trouble with constantly spraying is, one, it can only lasts so long, and two, keeping that top layer constantly damp will leave them more prone to a fungal infection, avoid misters/foggers for this reason too, the humidifiers can also make the air too wet leading to respiratory issues. To stop that top layer getting a little too dry because you don’t want dusty substrate, we mix it now n then, which also helps gives a humidity boost without extra water🙂to maintain our humidity we simply pour some lukewarm water into the corners of the substrate, not loads! Just enough to dampen the whole under layer. You can keep an eye on your monitors&substrate to do the pours as and when needed, which in a good closed chamber set up, you shouldn’t have to do loads😊

Substrate wise never add any kind of moss, that’s something some stores think nothing of, but it can actually cause lethal impactions.

Don’t use any top soils or anything mixed with sand. Unless you’ve composted it yourself, there’s no way of knowing what kind of plants have gone into top soils, could be something toxic. Sand is a irritant.

Safe substrate options are coco coir, damp and packed down by hand as a base, with orchid bark(fir not pine) on top, or forest floor on top, or just the orchid bark/ forest floor on their own.

For a greenhouse set up, base wise I know most don’t come with a bottom, but tbh I don’t see that being too much of an issue if you line the entire thing with pond lining, going all up the sides too👍

Some people even hang their lighting and heat from the greenhouse frame!(if it’s sturdy enough) Simply wrap the wire around for the height you need(check with a temperature gun/add thermostats, roughly 18-21 inches from the top of torts shell the Arcadia uv) and secure with cable ties and chains. Or you could make your own stands out of safe timber, again I’ll attach some pics.

To mount the Arcadia uv, you could get a piece of timber wood, screw in the clip brackets it comes with, click the reflector in and on the other side of the wood screw hooks in(I’d do that first to make sure you don’t catch the fitting) then use the hooks to hang the chains, just an idea, there’s a few ways you could go about it🙂

For a water dish a large terracotta saucer, sitting flush with the substrate is safest🙂

Id definitely recommend a temp gun to make sure your monitors are reading correctly. Have digital monitors that read both temp and humidity, I don’t have specific recommendations for where you live, but I have seen some people use govees to get the readings on their phone

Ignore whatever else is in the photos in the enclosures, they’re just to give you an idea😊and ignore that some of the fittings in the pics are floodlights, ches will work great, just examples on how to hang your bulbs👍

The examples are too small tbh, but basically that on a larger scale is what you’re going for

Also as this is a closed chamber set up, the materials like the lining and cover will need time to off gas, I’d leave it all running up to a week, or until there is no odour, if there’s no smell, it’s safe for use.

Your list sounds pretty good to me! Hopefully some of the tips and recommendations help you narrow it down😊feel free to run any purchases by here🥰