Closed Chamber advice, please?

Bass.Isles

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Mar 30, 2017
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Hey y'all, let me start by saying I have read through some of the closed chamber threads and I had some additional questions. I wanted to know whether a wooden chamber (with tightly fitting wooden lid on hinges), something plexiglass or something plastic, would hold up better under the condensation due to the high humidity? I mean, if I go with the wood, is it going to be all molded out in 6 months time? Also, whatever I build/have built is going to be at least 24-30 inches in height and approximately 6x3 or 7x3.5 foot, so do I place my humidifier directly inside the chamber with the top closed? Also, if since it is a closed chamber with a closed top, do I need to put a couple/few small holes anywhere in it for some fresh air at all? I know she needs high (80% - 100%) humidity but I also don't want to accidentally smother her. lol. Hope someone can help me! Thank y'all.
 

Markw84

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The idea of the closed chamber, is that the heat and the humidity are easy to control and maintain without the open air exchange. We do not put holes or vents in as there is plenty of air inside and with daily feeding/soaks/etc. there is plenty of air exchange at that time.

The humidity comes from the substrate which is kept damp throughout. Orchid bark (fine grade) is preferred for this reason as it holds moisture well and will not mold. It is quite inexpensive at a local garden center in 1 to 2 cu ft bags. I get a 1 cu ft bag for $10 at an upscale garden center near me. You need about 3 bags in the bottom and I dump about a gallon of water in and mix it thoroughly to make it uniformly wet. That will keep the humidity up in a closed chamber, just adding some water as needed once or twice a week.

For a 5" sulcata, the 6x3 would be a minimum. I use one that size for my hatchlings, but it is outgrown in a year. In a good closed chamber with proper care, yours will easily be 10" and over 3 lbs in a year. So if you are set for an good permanent outdoor enclosure at that time, the 6x3 could work until then.

I would go 24" high. A good T5 HO UVB fluorescent mounted to the top works perfectly at that height. I would use a 4 foot double fixture and have the UVB along with a regular fluorescent tube as close to 5500K and a CRI of at least 90. That will give a great overall ambient lighting. A small 65 watt flood bulb for basking heat would be all you would need for a basking area. A CHE on thermostat for ambient and night heat to ensure it never dips below 80°. with a set up like that, you will find the enclosure will stay in the 80° - 90° range all day with the lights on and the CHE will not need to come on except to keep heat up at night.

You are correct, plain wood will develop mold quickly with those conditions. You also need the bottom pretty much water tight from all the damp substrate. I simply caulk all edges of my enclosure, then prime and paint with a waterproof paint. I use Rustoleum countertop paint. You can use a pond sealer paint as well. Some people seal the inside with a good enamel ext paint, and then line the bottom of the enclosure with a shower curtain, or waterproof tarp wrapped up the edges about 6" or so.

So that's the goal. All those things do add up the cost, but it is the best way to easily create ideal conditions for your tortoise. If you've looked over other closed chamber threads you have seen other more inexpensive ideas. The main thing - Close it off best you can to retain humidity and heat. Proper substrate to hold moisture and not mold. Bottom sealed to hold wet substrate, and entire inside sealed to prevent mold build-up. Good UVB if no outside time will need to be fluorescent as a MVB will overheat a closed chamber. CHE on thermostat.
 

Bass.Isles

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Here is something I found and am thinking about purchasing. Not as large as what I wanted, but will do for now while she is only 5 inches long and weighs 10.50 oz. My quandary now is, how would I rig the lights? I have (3) really cool lamp fixtures that I love (because they swivel every which way). One of which is a CHE and the other two I use for UVA/UVB during daytime hours. Ideas?

1493480867381.jpg
 
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Markw84

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as a temporary enclosure it should work well. You don't have any visibility but otherwise would work. With the height you should be fine with hanging fixtures inside. However, I am concerned by what you describe that the fixtures may not have ceramic bases and designed for the heat of a CHE. There is no need and you do not want the fixtures to swivel. All light should be coming from directly overhead. Also, you must be talking compact fluorescents for UVB if they fit in a fixture like that. They simply do not put out a lot of UVB and what they do produce is in a very small area and does not create a good basking area for a tortoise. I would really suggest going to a strip fluorescent fixture for UVB and be sure you have a flood style, not spot, incandescent basking bulb. You won't need much as it could overheat easily in that closed box.

Don't know how the top of that box is constructed, but you should be able to screw into it. IF just thin plastic and hollow inside the top, you may want to bolt through in four corners of a piece of plywood you attach to the inside of the top. Then attach your fixtures to that.
 

Bass.Isles

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Awesome, thank you so much for taking the time to help me. Will Cypress work, instead of Orchid? That’s what I’ve been using and it stays very damp (I do as you do, and add about a gallon of H2O a couple times per week). And yes, I am working on the plans for and saving money to have a (24ft Long x 16ft Wide x 30 inch High as well as 14 inches below ground) enclosure built in my fenced back yard including a tortoise house within the next year. But once that is built, how do you ensure proper humidity? Because at that size, it’s obviously not going to have a completely closed top.

The lamp fixtures I have, do have a ceramic socket, I made sure of that. And two of the bulbs are 75 Watt UVA/UVB Halogen bulbs. The CHE’s I have are different, one for heat during the day and one for at night. Look at these links and tell me if the bulbs are wrong, please? I will definitely look into the 4ft fluorescent fixture. And a Fixture that has a timer for the ambient CHE. Does that fixture (the one with a timer) come in a long strip as well? Or is it like a Fluker’s that just goes overhead? And is UVA not important? Just UVB? Please excuse my ignorance, I’m trying to learn all this for the first time lol. Should the T5 HO UVB fluorescent bulb be 4ft long as well? I found a 46" one (I'm posting that link as well) and it's only 54w... would that do? Cuz the largest I can find is Also, what is the best type of thermometer/hydrometer combo to get? I have 2 different ones which I’d also like you to look over, and give me your opinion on, below. Thanks again, you’re awesome!





https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DU3SW0S/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

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I too was worried about the 'wood' enclosure just rotting out or badly warping from all the moisture and humidity.....
this is what I did.. maybe might work for you....
I built my enclosure out of the Stranded Plywood (cheaper that regular ply but I love the stranded look :)).... then for the bottom I used a thick contact paper (shelving paper) and then all around the sides(where the very moist dirt meets the wood walls).... I silicone in ceramic tiles. I also have a few 'Under dirt" pieces of wood where the ground gets extra moist and those are covered using 'Flex Seal Liquid' (once cured completely safe for pond use and super waterproof).
AND then..... all of the exposed wood i painted a layer of 'Richards Shields All'..... it is a waterproofer you can use on paints or standalone and safe (i use it for accents off some aquariums as well)....
 

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